Anybody using the Nova Cole Jaws or How to get a smooth bottom?

Good morning,
I'm interested in these jaws:
But I have a couple of questions. I have a Jet JML-1014 lathe with a 10" s wing. I'm wondering if these will fit. The largest bowl I can turn is ~ 1 0" and I hate to give up too much of that if I can avoid it. But I also li ke to turn very thin bowls if possible. So, if I recess the bottom to fit on my Nova jaws then I end up having to have the bottom thicker then I want . I would like to turn down that recess flush and thought this would be a solution. I'm also looking at those "donut" jigs, but from what I read I c ould lose up to 2" off the overall diameter if I do that. Would this also be the problem with the cole jaws? Would I have to give up a lot to achie ve this.
Essentially, I guess what I want is the largest bowl I can get, turned thin
, with a smooth bottom.
Hmmm, sounds like the perfect woman...
Anyway, any suggestions, as always, appreciated.
-Jim

> > But I have a couple of questions. I have a Jet JML-1014 lathe with a 10"swing. I'm wondering if these will fit. The largest bowl I can turn is ~ 10"and I hate to give up too much of that if I can avoid it. But I also like toturn very thin bowls if possible. So, if I recess the bottom to fit on my Novajaws then I end up having to have the bottom thicker then I want. I would liketo turn down that recess flush and thought this would be a solution. I'm alsolooking at those "donut" jigs, but from what I read I could lose up to 2" offthe overall diameter if I do that. Would this also be the problem with thecole jaws? Would I have to give up a lot to achieve this. > with a smooth bottom. You've got to figure at least an inch from the inside of the outside button to the ways of the lathe. If you have a 10" swing, the maximum bowl rim diameter will be no more than 9" and probably more like 8".
Another thing about cole jaws: If you have your tool rest parallel to the bottom of the bowl and the bowl starts slipping out of the jaws, it will catch between the jaws and the tool rest and become an instant projectile. DAMHIKT.
I fooled around with mine for 3 or 4 years before I got me a vacuum pump and started vacuum chucking and have never had one leave the chuck since. Other than the pump you can cobble the rest of the system together. My headstock shaft is hollow so on the bowl end it required a faceplate, a rubber plumbing washer, a disk of 3/4" MDF and facing for the disk is a sheet of foam from Hobby Lobby, glued on with spray glue. My lathe swing is 15" and my largest disk is 14 7/8" and it will accommodate a bowl of the same diameter.
If interested check Bill Noble's site at

In article ,
I can't tell if those are the mini or the standard (Nova makes both). The standard are too large, the mini fits
That being said, either set only clamps down at 8 points, while the donut has a more secure hold.
There is another option., You take the mini-jaws and add a wood addition to them, that is to say you add machinable jaw set to the cole-jaws. I used maple that was about 2x6.
When finished you machine a perfect fit recess into the wood jaws and clamp the bowl with those. If the fit is right, you have a continuous clamp all the way around the rim of the bowl. Although I would also bring the tail stock up for the majority of the turning off the tenon.

>> rdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1 >> >> But I have a couple of questions. I have a Jet JML-1014 lathe with a 10" >> swing. I'm wondering if these will fit. The largest bowl I can turn is ~ >> 10" and I hate to give up too much of that if I can avoid it. But I also >> like to turn very thin bowls if possible. So, if I recess the bottom to fit >> on my Nova jaws then I end up having to have the bottom thicker then I want. >> I would like to turn down that recess flush and thought this would be a >> solution. I'm also looking at those "donut" jigs, but from what I read I >> could lose up to 2" off the overall diameter if I do that. Would this also >> be the problem with the cole jaws? Would I have to give up a lot to achieve >> this. >> I like the idea of the machinable jaws. Also the OP talked about a bottom recess rather than a tenon. I guess a blunt tailstock support could be used in this case, though. I have used a 1" diameter disk with a hole for the point for something like this.

Remember they can expand just like they compress.
The rubber / plastic disks (I have a set but forget it has been so long) - press on the inner side of the lip of the bowl so the foot can be cut and beautified.
The jaws are soft Aluminum and can be easily cut back by hand or by a machinist.
Martin
> > But I have a couple of questions. I have a Jet JML-1014 lathe with a 10"swing. I'm wondering if these will fit. The largest bowl I can turn is ~ 10"and I hate to give up too much of that if I can avoid it. But I also like toturn very thin bowls if possible. So, if I recess the bottom to fit on my Novajaws then I end up having to have the bottom thicker then I want. I would liketo turn down that recess flush and thought this would be a solution. I'm alsolooking at those "donut" jigs, but from what I read I could lose up to 2" offthe overall diameter if I do that. Would this also be the problem with thecole jaws? Would I have to give up a lot to achieve this. > with a smooth bottom.

In article ,
I shamelessly stole that idea from Dale Larson (current AAW President), I have no idea who he stole if from
"Everything of value I do I learned from someone else" Eli Aviseria

Take a look at this. You can make it yourself to ensure the max size that will fit your lathe. And it's easier to move the rubber stoppers.

That looks nice, but with the adjustments - it would be great for odd shaped items that need a foot. - The independence of each holder does that - clamp a triangular chunk. ....
The cole is self centering. The one shown on Sears site seems to fit easily a 10" lathe. It can get larger but just don't use it that large. Look at the details below. (the text box) Martin
> Take a look at this. You can make it yourself to ensure the max size > that will fit your lathe. And it's easier to move the rubber stoppers. > > >

In article ,

Good idea. The problem with a point on the tailstock is that it acts as a wedge and can easily split the piece when tightened.

On Wed, 1 Aug 2012 07:04:10 -0700 (PDT), jtpryan wrote:
I'll Echo what a few have said here.. I spent big bucks (for me, at the time) for the Oneway jumbo jaws.. Didn't like 'em..
Finally put together a vacuum chucking system out of used parts and shop-made chucks and never looked back..
Not buying the Jumbo Jaws would have paid for half of my vacuum system..
with a smooth bottom.

I use the Cole jaws regularly on my Myford Mystro lathe which has an eleven inch swing.
I think you should be O.K on your lathe. I have been using these jaws for about three years and can only remember one occasion when the bowl came off. That was because I got a rather heavy catch and the damage from the catch was worse than the small scratches from the bowl catching the toolrest.
Tom.
On Wed, 1 Aug 2012 07:04:10 -0700 (PDT), jtpryan wrote:
I'll Echo what a few have said here.. I spent big bucks (for me, at the time) for the Oneway jumbo jaws.. Didn't like 'em..
Finally put together a vacuum chucking system out of used parts and shop-made chucks and never looked back..
Not buying the Jumbo Jaws would have paid for half of my vacuum system..