CA Question

Coat the area surrounding the crack with sanding sealer before applying CA. Than sand it away so the finish won't blotch.

Reply to
Jgklr2732
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Many thanks

Keith

Reply to
Keith Young

Of course, the best thing to do is to run CA into the crack before you take the final passes with gouge or paper. The capillary draw into the crack will be much greater than the draw into the grain of the wood, especially if the wood is cool. You can also help your cause by spritzing the accelerator on the area prior to using the CA. More rapid cure will keep the penetration low on the surface, while still allowing good capillary draw. It also helps to spritz the opposite side so you won't have problems with leakage when you start spinning again.

Reply to
George

Thanks George

Is there a preferred Ca. I am using the $ store stuff. Also I wasn,t aware that there was an accelerator . Please elaborate.

Reply to
Keith Young

After filling cracks with Ca, the surrounding wood becomes saturated also. Anybody have a solution. Maybe coating the area around the crack with something that can be easily be removed later.

Thanks Keith

Reply to
Keith Young

I use the Hot Stuff from Lee Valley although there are other sources for CA around. LV also has the accelerator and the solvent. The solvent comes in real handy when you find your fingers stuck to the bowl. Not a great experience even though it gives your wife hour's of enjoyment relating the tale at parties.

CA comes in various "thicknesses". The usual stuff you see is thin but there is a medium and thick as well which can be handy. Billh

Reply to
billh

Don't know if any are preferred. I've used four or five varieties, and aside from one with a decided mothballs smell to it, they all seem the same. Order from the place where you're already paying a shipping charge, unless someone knows some really hot deals or great stuff. Difference is less than a buck Cdn ($1.28 US - couldn't resist) from the best to the worst price. Lee Valley, where my entire tool allowance is spent, carries it, I know.

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I keep medium weight for actually gluing things together, like caps on ornaments, and water thin for cracks which are only optically significant, or for the bottoms of those larger I will be filling with other things like dust and medium consistency. It's also a great adjunct to your chuck, as you can run it into the end grain portion of the tenon or recess to help prevent splits if you get a catch. The accelerant works for both. Oh yes, get a bottle of the debonder and mount it near the switch to the lathe where you can get to it on the off chance you use CA a bit carelessly and find yourself attached to something larger than you. Good insurance, as it's almost instantaneous in debonding.

The accelerator is a great help on acid woods, too, where it can take a long time to get a cure. Some claim a weaker bond, but I've not noticed it.

Reply to
George

You might want to consider this alternative:

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This is available to the penturners Yahoo group ... so I reasoned, "Why not here too?"

Well, now it's here, too.

Bill

Reply to
Anonymous

just as long as you don't glue yourself to the lathe switch while reaching for the "antidote".. *g*

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Reply to
mac davis

Don,t use enough Ca to need the debonder thanks

Reply to
Keith Young

see tips sectoin of

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look for CA finish

Reply to
william_b_noble

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