End grain sealer

I've used it, and it slows down the cracking.

Exterior seems to be better, but the latex film seems to have a bit of stretch to it, so it doesn't crack right away with the wood.

Better plan on using it within a year though.

Old Guy In Minnesota, where the tools are shivering

Hi Jim

Jim, Latex paint does slow the drying down very little, You know that painting with oil paint on wet wood you'll get bubbles, latex does not, it lets the water through. I have more luck with strapping a plastic bag around the ends, or using Anchorseal, and then it helps only for so long, depending where you are able to place that wood. Off of the ground, out of the sun and out of the wind, does increase the time you'll be able to store it, that's the way I do it, good luck.

Have fun and take care Leo Van Der Loo

It is better than nothing, but may not provide such a good barrier an is really designed for use on dry wood, so I think it would nee inspecting periodically to make sure it isn't peeling off. If the woo is frozen you may want to let it warm up some before painting it.

FWIW, whenever I see boards that have been painted with something othe than anchorseal they always seem to have some checks in them. Not as ba as one might expect if they weren't treated at all, but checks none th less. On a 10 foot board the waste is minimal. On a short piece like crotch of bowl blank, it would be very disheartening.

IMO a gallon of anchorseal goes a long way and is worth th investment.

But at the end of the day, handling green wood in a way that works bes for you is something that can only be discovered by experimentation

Jim, I have had success with latex paint when I've made it a point to recoat after a while. I have a few pieces I did about a year ago and since then, 2 or 3 times, I just slapped a new coat on. I also would plan on using them or roughing them out as soon as you can get to it. I'll probably turn mine in the next month or so.

Mike

This brings up an interesting point: has anyone attempted to brew their own wax emulsion end-grain sealer?? It wouldn't seem to be too difficult, but to be honest I haven't tried it, nor do I know the chemistry involved to attempt it. Am I incorrect that Anchorseal is little more than wax--like beeswax--dissolved in a volatile solvent?

Any ideas?

Max

In water. Takes a non-sudsing surfactant as an emulsifier, and a _BIG_ blender.

I've used old latex with so-so success. If it is still pretty much the normal consistency you'll need to put on several coats in my experience, to equal the protection you get from Anchorseal. Once however I had some *really* old latex which was more the consistency of pudding. We're talking thick. I painted that on, and it worked great. I estimated it was about the equivalent of five coats of regular latex.

S'later...

...Kevin

FWIW I gave some rough turned oak an end treatment with oil based primer because it was the thickest most expendable stuff that what was at hand at the moment. Two months later half of the pieces seem not to have any cracks at all, the remainder have small end checks and one has an ugly check along the middle of the log. AFAIK there was no pith in any of the pieces but I may be wrong about the ugly one.

I've heard of people melting down candles to make their own end sealer but somehow I think Anchorseal would be cheaper and more reliable.

J.

M> I have a bunch of fresh cut walnut limb,crotches and stumps available

And, if you can work a deal to buy it in a 55 gal drum from the manufacturer, even with shipping, there is no way you can buy the wax and other stuff you would need at that price -- you are paying retail for the ingredients and they are paying wholesale.

Find some turner friends to go partners on a drum. Also, either plan to pick it up at the truck terminal or include a partner with a business which can unload a truck, either at dock height or with a fork lift. That saves lots on the shipping cost.

Bill

George wrote:

What sort of surfactant? I have a rather large supply of beeswax, and I've assumed a Cuisinart food processor might fill the bill for redundant small batches.

Anchorseal isn't really that expensive, especially when purchased in 5 gallon quantities or larger. It's just that I've been wondering what to do with several hundred pounds of beeswax for more than a year. End-grain sealer seemed promising.

Max

MinnJim

Another cheap alternative is PVA glue, again does need a top up an needs to be kept out of the rain. Mar

Non-sudsing type, surely. Recommend demineralized water for best action.

my 2 cents: I wanted to avoid putting a water based anything on an obect which I want to dry. Also, monitoring the situation called for a clear film. Finally, a thick coat would prevent the need for multiple coats. Added all together I ended up using silicone RTV tubes. Cheap, transparent and not absorbed by the wood. As to wax, you could probably buy powdered or pelleted wax, of any kind, melt as much as you need in an old pot and put it in with a spatulla. Would probably dry quicker than my silicone rubber but will it withstand the tumbling and ocassional reshuffling of the logs? enjoy... max

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In all the talk about AnchorSeal and other end sealers, I saw no comment at all about the material Woodcraft sells called Green Wood End Sealer. It costs about $17/Gallon and comes in one gallon jugs. I have used it for a few years and am still on my first bottle but it seems to do a good job of end sealing. I would like to hear other peoples comments on it.

I've had good success with just plain old candle wax. I'm cheap, so I buy old candles at garage sales; often times people will give them away. I heat them up in a coffee can sitting in a pot of hot water. I just dip the smaller branches and use a brush for larger pieces. I usually apply about 3 coats, waiting a couple seconds between coats. I've used latex but had the wood crack after a few months. Wax seems to seal better for me. After you're done, leave the brush in the can and let it all cool and harden.

Joe

I always figured it was just rebranded Anchorseal. Used both, can't tell the difference...

...Kevin

Nor I between either and the water emulsion wax I spread and buffed when I was in service.

I have used Woodcraft's product and have good luck with it. I've sealed both Ash & Cherry wood from 2 trees I had to have taken down. A gallon goes a long way. I still have about one-third left. John