Locking the spindle

I certainly believe in safety and they are fine for chuck keys, but IMHO a spring loaded spindle lock without a way to retain it is an invention of the devil or at least of a legal dept.

I'm not criticizing, just wondering. How do you PM 3520 owners modify your spindle locks to keep them locked? Maybe the 3520 I saw was an early model or I'm missing something, but watching a big bowl being removed from a tommy bar chuck by a person with only two hands was not a pretty sight.

Turn to Safety, Arch Fortiter

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Arch
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Reply to
Gerald Ross

Arch, Although I haven't done it to my lathe, I know of a couple of turners who depress the button, then drill an appropriate sized hole through the flanges on the sides of the button. Then when you need to lock the spindle, you slide a nail through the holes to keep the spondle locked. I don't know if it is a feature that I need or not, I am used to doing without it. robo hippy

Gerald Ross wrote:

Reply to
robo hippy

I believe it's supposed to be a spindle lock....................it wouldn't function very well as an indexer..........

Barry

Reply to
Barry N. Turner

Actually, I had another use for a third hand when turning on a PM 3520. Getting the tailstock back on the machine took one hand to hold it up, another one underneath it to hold the locking plate in the right alignment and a third one to hold the cam lock bar up so you could slide the tailstock on the ways.

Bill

Barry N. Turner wrote:

Reply to
Bill Rubenstein

OK all your 3520 owners! I hope you can answer Arch's question. I just bought a 3520 and love the machine. Compared to my ol' Delta, it is a Rolls Royce. By biggest disappointment is the spindle lock. I really wanted a lock that would lock but you can hardly keep it locked even when holding the button in. But when it takes one hand to hold the button in, it doesn't leave many hands to do anyting else with! Any fixes??

Earl

Reply to
Earl

What are the chances of trying to run the lathe with the lock engaged? I suspect it would happen in MY shop.

Walt C

Reply to
Walt Cheever

I am not sure about the 3520, but running my Craftsman with the spindle lock (a very good one) on is a great reason to change the drive belt. :-(

Reply to
Darrell Feltmate

Bill I had the same problem with my Craftsman so I took a strip of masking tape to hold the plate in alignment as I put the tailstock on. A three hand hassle went zip. If I was not so pleased I would have kicked me.

Reply to
Darrell Feltmate

Darrell, I'm not sure if you are glad or sorry that your lathe has a good spindle lock, or would you rather have it spring loaded?

Turn to Safety, Arch Fortiter

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Reply to
Arch

Hi Arch, I haven't been able to check into the group much anymore (too busy turning), but it's always a pleasure to see your active involvement.

I have a 3520 and prefer the spring loaded spindle lock over the type that stays in place by itself. I find it significantly faster and safer because it is quicker to engage and release, and it releases automatically so I don't accidentally power up with it engaged. I started up my drill press one day with the key still in the chuck. I haven't been wearing my face shield at the drill press but now I am rethinking that.

Most of the time I don't need to hold in the spring loaded spindle lock on my lathes that have that feature because once it is engaged, simply maintaining rotational pressure on the chuck or workpiece will hold the lock in place. On the RARE occasion when I really want it to stay engaged by itself, I use the nail through the flanges method described in another post by "robo hippy" . I guess if I felt I needed it to stay in place often I would come up with something quicker - ought to be easy to figure out something spring loaded or using a strong magnet. I can envision a cam on the end of a lever (like on a cam operated bar clamp) attached to the flanges; that might be the best solution.

I prefer tommy bar chucks and have made bars that hang from the chucks and wedge against the bed so it frees up my left hand to work the other tommy bar or hold the spindle lock. The hanging bar is shaped like a "7" - a short nub goes into the top hole, it wraps around the chuck, and the long handle hangs down all the way to the bed so it can wedge against or between the ways if I want that hand free (nearly always). This kind of bar, by the way, will never make a hole go oval.

best wishes,

-mike paulson, fort collins, co

Reply to
Mike Paulson

Seeing a person with three hands could be even more unpleasant ;-)

I have the old-style Vicmarc with tommy bars, and never had a need for a spindle lock unless I'm trying to remove a stuck chuck or faceplate.

At least with my Vic, you can usually get the two bars close enough together to manipulate with one hand, while holding the turning with the other.

If I had a 3520 I'd probably wanna figure this one out, but haven't had a chance to fondle one with my 2 hands yet. Actually, I will this coming weekend, at our AAW chapter meeting--the host has one. BTW, it will be a 2 day workshop with Alan Lacer if anyone is in the neighborhood (Onalaska, Wisconsin, $40 at the door for both days).

Ken Grunke La Farge, WI

Reply to
Ken Grunke

You've noticed that the square holes respond to round pins too?

I've the old Novas with the pin spanner, and my normal method of removing them is to hang the spanner on the outer ring and give a sharp blow from the heel of my hand. I dread the day it's on tight....

Reply to
George

George... as an ol' fart that has hit way too many things with my hands and regrets it.. please use a mallet, wood or rubber.. your hands will thank you later in life..

mac

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Reply to
mac davis

I'm sure they will, and I'm trying to do better. Step at a time....

Reply to
George

sure as hell, I caught myself doing it tonight... I was going to give something a lil "tap" with my hand and grabbed the mallet...

golden years, my ass... lol

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Reply to
mac davis

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