Just added another canister to my album on facebook (not necessary to be
a facebook user to view it). I posted the first three shots in the
album a couple weeks ago, but added several photos of a maple vessel
that I finished tonight.
Looking for advise here. There have been threads here about lathe tool
and I think Ive read them all. For 6 or 7 years.
I see Grizzly has an 8" wet grinder with a leather strop (?) wheel.
I've got, and use, an 8", high speed tool post grinder, and had been thinking of a finer grit stone, but a good stone costs almost as much as I paid for the whole grinder. The darn thing is just too fast and unforgiving
for my level of experience. especially trying to eyeball grind a good
grind (I think some here call it) Once in a while I hit it right, and then
turning is just so much fun it is hard to stop!
What do you think? I hope to coax SWMBO to stop by Bellingham
Grizzly showroom with me next week.
Old Chief Lynn
On Fri, 28 Sep 2012 20:45:28 -0700, "coffelt2"
I tried a slow, wet wheel (Harbor freight's knockoff) and realized
that it was pretty much for honing...
Your present grinder is for "grinding", (shaping the tool), as opposed
to "Sharpening", (renewing the edge on a tool)...
My solution a few years ago was the Woodcraft slow speed grinder:
I got it on sale for $99 and free shipping, note that it comes with 2 excellent white oxide wheels.... Since I was in the market for new wheels for my high speed grinder, I figure that the new grinder was the price of new wheels plus about $30, since the wheels were $30 to $40 each and this grinder comes with them...
After 2 or 3 years, I'm still very happy with this grinder...
Hope this helps...
Do a good turn today!
I have a high speed grinder which I never use for sharpening, a low
speed white wheel which I seldom use, a horizontal water stone
sharpener which I seldom use. My favorite for sharpening turning
tools is a grizzly 1" x 40 belt sander with a blue zirconia belt. I
have the little table set at the angle I sharpen at and can put a new
edge on a fingernail bowl gouge in seconds. Of course it is a
dedicated sharpener. wouldn't want wood dust down there where the
sparks go to die
Sometime I knock the wire edge off with a slipstone inside the gouge
but I can't seem to see any advantage to doing this since it is
knocked off the second the gouge meets a bowl blank.
Happy turning, Chief!
In article ,
Eyeballing a fingernail grind if pretty much limited to people who burn
a lot of tools learning to do that. The rest of us use jigs, and you
don't have to buy one, you can make one quite easily. Some of the ones
you make are better than what you can buy, since I don't think anybody
sells the "pivot at floor level" jig Jerry Glaser came up with. It's
kinda large for normal sales channels.
(the third page of a 4-page article, well worth reading the whole thing, but that's the page with the jig on it)
Jigs, if you like woodworking rather than transferring your funds to
someone else to get toys, go to
(Darell's site) and read up on lotsa free grinding jigs. And tools to make too. Or you can get rid of your money buying the things... If it's actually a toolpost grinder, it's not for grinding tools with anyway - it's for grinding work in a metal lathe and you should be able to ebay if for plenty to buy something else. 8" would be kinda big for one of those so I suspect it's a terminology issue, and you have a stand grinder. High speed is not a problem, just choose a good wheel and don't lay into it too hard.
The bees knees for actual grinding (IME) is a cheap 4 inch belt sander
bolted to something such that the belt is running "uphill" (some of them
can be easily reversed - others it's easier to just bolt the base to the
wall) with an AlZ belt. A 2" belt grinder would also do, and there are
some good homebuilds on those out in the wild from knofe-makers (soem
with a large contact wheel if you like a concave grind (I'm a fan of the
flat platen effect myself) - you can get 8-12 inch wheel "effect" with a
belt that costs only a few bucks. I find the 1" belts bit fussy for
some tools (can't get the whole skew on at once) but if you have one,
sure - if shopping, I'd go wider (and the 4" "sanders" are often cheaper
- just don't use the same one for wood and metal unless you like putting
out fires when the sparks meet the wood-dust.) One of those ad a few
beltw will probably cost less than a new stone for the big grinder. But
the stone in the big grinder now might be a lot more use if you get a
jig built, too.
For constant little touch-ups, some sort of strop loaded with chromium
oxide is good. A bit of carborundum or diamond film glued to some glass
or a granite tile is also handy.