Ping Mac Davis ! Shopsmith arbor diameter<G>.

Mac, Bill noble needs a second opinion on the shopsmith shaft diameter. My SS reads .6171" (about 1/128" shy of 5/8") with my el cheapo vernier caliper. Ditto for the inside diameter of all my arbors and I have some newer ones like a 1-1/4" sawblade adator from a mark V. Anyway, if you have a way of measuring your SS (if you still have it) Bill and I would appreciate the info. Same applies for anyone else here. Bill thinks maybe mine is smaller, but all the arbors fit good and snug. The problem is.......he has access to a manufactured adaptor that says it fits SS and it is 5/8" true bored (he dosen't have a SS to test it on though). I think that mfg. may have made it a little sloppy but I don't know for sure. Any help from anyone will be most appreciated. Man I can't help it if someone got into the non-filtered, left-handed cigarettes when they manufactured this thing in 1949 (I checked the serial # for a fact). But by trying newer arbors at least they are consistent. I am joking about the above comment on the cigarettes. Not joking about the year of mfg. I really like my shopsmith and that is a good thing. It is all I have to work with.:-) TIA Lyndell

Reply to
Lyndell Thompson
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Where are you measuring? Can't find my el cheapo, but everything says

5/8" and I have adaptors from other sources claiming 5/8" and they all fit.
Reply to
Lobby Dosser

Hi Lyndell

SS shaft size is 5/8", however in 57 years of use I'm sure there is some wear on your SS shaft, did you try to measure very close to the housing, and/or do you have some way to check your caliper by measuring a known size like some micrometers have often a piece to check the micrometer, also you have to have some clearance, but 8 thou seams like a lot. My 2 cents

Have fun and take care Leo Van Der Loo

Reply to
l.vanderloo

Been using a shopsmith for quite a while, 20 years. The shaft at the time I bought it was (is) 5/5" dia.

Reply to
Ralph

Been using a shopsmith for quite a while, 20 years. The shaft at the time I bought it was (is) 5/8" dia.

Reply to
Ralph

Been using a shopsmith for quite a while, 20 years. The shaft at the time I bought it was (is) 5/8" dia.

Reply to
Ralph

OOPs, Make that 5/8".

Reply to
Ralph

Lyndell.. everything that I've bought for the shopsmith has been 5/8" and it's all fit well, including the beall buffing system...

wow.. my machine must be almost new... I bought it in 81... *g* Mac

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Reply to
mac davis

Ah ha! kind of as I suspected. something is fishy in Shopsmith land. A 5/8 drill should drill about a thousandth oversize, so drilling a

5/8 hole should lead to a good fit on a 5/8 spindle - but in Lyndell's case it didn't - so we are "two amigos" (apologies to Disney) in search of the invisible messanger to deliver the answer as to why this should be. Meanwhile, experiments continue........

snip-------

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to contact me, do not reply to this message, instead correct this address and use it

will iam_ b_ No ble at msn daught com

Reply to
William B Noble (don't reply to this address)

Still can't find my el cheapo caliper, but I did run across my Free Rockler Nut and Bolt Gauge (hey, it least it wasn't my Free Black Handyman Club of America Drill Gauge). The Rockler 5/8" slid right on the SS shaft - this after I had to search for my Harbor Freight Hex Wrenches to remove the current occupant. There is some slop, but it doesn't look to be more than a couple thou. Slides clean to the base of the shaft. My SS is a 1956.

Reply to
Lobby Dosser

aha... now you've changed the question, Bill... He asked what size the shaft was, not what size hole to drill in something to fit the shaft...

I can give expert testimony that 5/8" accessories fit the shopsmith... you need an engineer to tell you WHY it fits.. *lol*

Mac

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Reply to
mac davis

It's 5/8, unless it's been seriously abused.

I have one of pretty much the same vintage (within the first year of Mark V construction - no access hole on the backside of the headstock, green paint, Magna Engineering). I recently upgraded the quill/drive system to the "newer" style, which was a few hundred $, but it got me the new two bearing quill, as my old quill was sloppy after 50 years of use, and I had never gotten around to doing the DIY two bearing upgrade on it; AND it meant no more bleeping Gilmer belt (swapped the drive parts to go to the Poly-V belt while I was at it). Them fancy new parts swapped into the Olde Machine just fine. So there is hope if your quill has, in fact, been abused.

Reply to
Ecnerwal

Hi Bill

Not to blame you or in any way saying what the cause is , but I would never trust a drill bit to make a good fitting hole, throughout the years I have seen to many sloppy holes caused by drills that go oversize,off kilter etc., for different reasons, mostly for taking large cut increases with bids that have one cutting edge longer than the other, if possible holes should be bored on a lathe or drilled undersize and reamed out to size, just my opinion. A fairly good way to second guess some standard sizes is to use a open end wrench on a shaft, should give a reasonable close idea of the size in question.

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Have fun and take care Leo Van Der Loo

Reply to
l.vanderloo

How much effort is required to make the changes? Do you need more than one pair of hands?

Thanks, LD

Reply to
Lobby Dosser

Not much effort. I did it myself, working alone. If you actually open it up regularly to oil the parts inside that you're supposed to oil & clean every 10 running hours, it won't be difficult at all. If you never do that, there's another couple of parts you might end up needing sometime ;-). Then again, with a '56 you have the access hole for easier oiling without tearing as much down. I believe that the instructions which came with the parts were adequate (though badly photocopied), but I also had been in most of the same places to replace the Gilmer belt back in the

1980's, so I had some memory of it.

If you have a manual, consult the section on tensioning the Gilmer belt. You need to understand how the eccentric mount works so that you can slack it off and tighten it up.

The website sections on oiling and cleaning might be of some help.

Some of the old instructions mention a usful method for dropping the motor which I don't know if the new ones do - lock the machine near the right end, raise it to drill-press position, install the table from the wrong side and use that to support the motor (which will rotate down 90 degrees once the drive belt is off, leaving you a lot more working room in the headstock than when it's flat).

You may need to pick some crud out of the keeper screw for the quill - I think it was filled with something to keep the owner from accidently fiddling with it at the factory. Right on top of the machine, fits in a groove on top of the quill.

As I recall, the new and old quills are splined differently, which was part of the reason I went ahead and swapped the Gilmer out - there was a replacement for the old quill, but it was not two bearing - going to the poly-V instead of the Gilmer meant I could get the two bearing quill, and the new-type belt should hold up better/run quieter as well.

Here are all the parts to do the job (if my records are correct) :

555088 Quill Retro-Kit 1 66.00 518145 Drive Sleeve Assembly 1 63.99 521681 Poly V-Belt 1 13.99 5041809 Idler Sheave 1 21.99

Prices are 2002 and reflect a sale on the quill upgrade at the time.

Don't rush, it should be a one day job. Could be only a couple hours, but that's only if you've been so far into the headstock assessing problems before you get the new parts that you've refreshed your memory on how all the weird bits work, and what goes where, and that sort of thing.

Reply to
Ecnerwal

Thanks for the reply. I saved your post for future reference. I thought I recalled that the two bearing quill would not fit models earlier than

1980(?). Good to know that there is an alternative.

LD

Reply to
Lobby Dosser

Leo, Bill drilled an adaptor to 5/8" and it needed a beer can thick shim to fit proper. It is true as can be with the shim. I have many other SS arbors and all fit snug so there is nothing wrong that I can see with the shaft It measure the same front to back. I was able to take the shim and get it checked with micrometer and it was .004" which explains why it works with about .008" play. My SS is a 1949 m/n10ER , which means experimental revised and was marketed exclusively thru Montgomery Ward co. I believe if we all got a good micrometer I think we will find my mesurement is close. What is not easy to figure is why they would go to that much trouble to make an odd size. Next question is why do some people have trouble with runout or wobble in my case and other mount it and it works fine. The quest for truth continues. Thanks! All info helps. Lyndell

Reply to
Lyndell Thompson

Reply to
Lyndell Thompson

Bill, maybe next time I get a vacation I will load it up and bring it to you. It's only a couple of thousand miles. Lyndell

"William B Noble (don't reply to this address)" wrote in message news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com...

Reply to
Lyndell Thompson

No quill update available for mine. I also subscribe to the 10ER users group on yahoo but havn't checked in for a while. I may try to do that soon and see what they say. Thanks Lyndell

Reply to
Lyndell Thompson

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