"Progress" report retarding mold

My neighbor gave me a magnolia tree he had to cut down. I dutifully cut bowl blanks, cutting out the pith section, and treated the end grain with wax emulsion. My first two bowls were beautiful white wood, which I boiled. 3 days later while drip-drying they became covered in mold spots. Black, brown, yellow, orange and grey. What a mess! Next one I tried vinegar (on somebody's suggestion). The mold loved it. I tried hurrying the preliminary drying by microwaving. I tried Boric Acid dissolved in water and painted on. I tried a solution of the mold inhibitor that you add to paint. The mold ate it up and asked for more.

Finally I got a pound of Sodium Propionate, in a light fluffy powder form. Two freshly turned bowls were treated, one by painting with a solution of 1 tablespoonful in a pint of water. The second by painting with plain water as a control. I did go to school.

The untreated one promptly grunged up as expected, the treated one did not get the spot mold, but after a week was covered with a fine bluish fur. I re-painted this one with a solution of 2 tablespoonfuls in a pint of water and the fuzz went away. A few days later there was pinpoint spots of black. Maybe I am on the right track. The rainy humid weather this year makes drying slow so that should be factored in. After two weeks they still feel wet.

Will keep you posted on the results of a stronger solution. Sodium Propionate is essentially non-toxic in small amounts unless you get it in your eye. They put it in your bread and cinnamon rolls for goodness sake!

This tree has given me plenty of blanks for practice and to perfect my dyeing technique. Hopefully I can learn to lick the evil mold. Will post pictures of the first two bowls after finishing in ABPW. BTW you can't turn the mold off, it rapidly penetrates into the wood.

Reply to
Gerald Ross
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,might try a 10% Clorox solution ... don't think the mold is going to eat it up.

Reply to
-e-

Forgot to mention it, but I did. Even full strength. It apparently evaporates in a few days and the protection goes away.

-e- wrote:

Reply to
Gerald Ross

if you seal the magnoilia and leave it alone, the mold turns it a beautiful silver color

Reply to
william_b_noble

Ah yes, sealer, or as it's known here - mildewmaker.

When the wood is cut with the sap up, it's tough to keep mobile fungi from taking advantage. Best thing I've found is to spin the blank well and swiftly once hollowed, repeating until visible moisture is gone, and keeping it in open air until the surface is no longer cool to the touch, around 4-8 hours. In my case it's then to the bottom shelf in the cure room. Though it may have enough moisture to start a few spots, they can't sustain at 20% MC or lower.

One advantage is that the stuff starts on the endgrain, which is always a bit proud of the final circle, and so gets cut away.

I like the idea of using a food preservative.

Reply to
George

I had the same problem you have with your magnolia, the difference........I loved the color that resulted from the mold. Instead of a boring light colored wood there were blacks & grays that were beautiful. Everyone comments on the attractive color. Anyway, I didn't answer your question but don't give up entirely on the dark color. Turn one to see what results you get, you may prefer the dark color?

Reply to
Ralph J. Ramirez

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