Sandpaper

Nobody loves sanding, and I hate it more than most in the group, so I'd like to pass along a "buy" recommendation for the Green "Hi-per" sanding discs. They're cloth-backed for good wear, have a resin-on-resin adhesive, and the grade, on the disks from Packard, is printed every half inch on the Velcro backing.

I got the assortment, just to give it a try, and have worked both wet and dry wood with it. The 120 is extremely sharp and cuts aggressively even on wet wood. It cuts so aggressively that I prefer to use the 180 to start on dry, but it loads less and sands more between cleanings than even my Power Lock resin-on-resin disks on warp-and-go pieces like the wet beech I worked last evening. I am afraid to try the 80, after seeing what the 120 will do.

Where it really comes into its own is in the finer grades, where I was extremely disappointed with the "gold" versions, returning to the Stearated Rhino brand after multiple disconnects between Velcro and paper. This stuff seems to hold better, even when you stop the lathe and put maybe a bit too much pressure on that _one_ spot, trying to avoid going back one grit.

I'm sure other places than Packard have it, but if you're looking to fill out an order to enough to justify the shipping, you might try adding this, as I did. I was pleasantly surprised.

Of course I don't work for anyone involved with the paper, and with no drawl I could never make it at Packard.

Reply to
George
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Reply to
Denis Marier

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'm sure someone else sells the stuff, or will soon, but right now I'd haveto say if you follow my advice you're following a fool. Went downstairs while Susan was starting the pies and chucked up a piece I had dried in the microwave. I had dried it to the point of smoke, which I quickly extinguished. Sure enough, in the thickest portion - near the bottom, I discovered brown charring as I was hollowing the interior. Down and down I went, finally seeing light at the end of the char - just prior to cutting through the base. Before the tenon folks jump in, yes, I held it with a recess, but a tenon would have just resulted in a surprise a bit farther down.

Curly hard maple funnel, anyone?

Reply to
George

They are from Performance Abrasives and have been around for a while, but not widely distributed. I got some early samples for my interminable comparative abrasive tests and have been very pleased with it for the coarser grits on larger forms. Its not as flexible as most others, so not as good for tighter inside curves, but works very well for most external sanding, or on larger bowls. Packard consistently offers the most comprehensive range of passvie and power sanding supplies, and is a good source.

Lyn

Denis Marier wrote:

Reply to
Lyn J. Mangiameli

Haw! Been there, Done That. Fixed the problem the classical way - I rounded out the hole a bit more, glued in a nice plug of a contrasting wood and turned (yes...I know...) it into a design decision! Regards Dave Mundt

Reply to
Dave Mundt

SWMBO has another suggestion. "If you make a cherry cap and clapper, people will think it's a big bell."

Or maybe she just said I was a ding-a-ling.

Reply to
George

I had problems with sand paper disks in the past. I had de-lamination with disks from a discount outlet. My drill is a 5 A with variable speed. I suspect that the drill's RPM could be running too fast (even with the variable speed) and caused the de-lamination. Conversely when I use good quality sanding disk I do not get de-laminations. I wonder if your comparative abrasive tests is available.

Reply to
Denis Marier

Alas, not yet, and it is much overdue. Some folks like to condense the choices down to a couple of simple rules of thumb based on the abrasive and binder, but I have tried to take a different approach that recognizes the interactive effects of both abrasive disk and backing pad (not to mention pressure, speed and characteristics of the wood abraded). Developing a methodology to do this objectively has been maddening, and I've gone down some blind alleys. I'm still working on it though, and will post when I have something scientifically defensible to say.

Lyn

Denis Marier wrote:

Reply to
Lyn J. Mangiameli

I suspect that some of these basement bargain outlets are moving good sand paper which the shelves life has expired or not suitable for mass production. What is the shelves life for sand paper? No one seems to know exactly how long can sand paper be stored. The humidity, temperature and other factors may impair the binder and the backing. The proof is in the pudding. I have send for a Packard's catalog and will purchase a small quantity of sanding disc made by Performance Abrasives. Den.

Reply to
Denis Marier

Hi again Denis,

You bring up a little disussed but very significant component of sanding disc performance. Many,indeed, most sanding disks still use hide glues for either their binder or to attach the velcro to the backing. Hide glue is notorious for its vulnerablility to heat in particular, but also moisture, so is it any surprise the velcro so quickly delaminates under the heat of high speed power sanding. PSA glues often do better for heat, but their adhesion decreases with time, thus shelf life is a significant factor with them.

There are just a lot of variables that go into a good sanding disk, many of which are hidden to superficial inspection.

Lyn

Denis Marier wrote:

Reply to
Lyn J. Mangiameli

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