Turning End Grain?

I'm really have problems turning end grain both in bowls and boxes. I have tried light shearing cuts with a round nose scrapper, small gouges,and some hollowing tools but get allot of tearing out; that takes forever to sand away. I have tried cutting down hill but I have little success. Any advise or suggestions!!

Reply to
harryc
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We all experience tearout in end grain. There will be two spots inside and outside the bowl. Very light scrapes and sanding are the only way I know of getting them out.

Tim

harryc wrote:

Reply to
TDUP

For boxes (and goblets), I really like the Oneway Termite tool for getting clean cuts on end grain.

rr

TDUP wrote:

Reply to
Randy Rhine

This is a problem for everybody. It's also a time where it helps to have someone work with you rather than try to explain it over the net. There is sure to be a turning club near you. Check my sig for the AAW link and go to local chapeters, look yours up by state and find them. Join them and the AAW. You'll find a bunch of people who'll be happy to help you work through the hard spots and share coffee. If you have a neighbor who's a turner have them take a look at what you're doing.

Dave in Fairfax

Reply to
Dave in Fairfax

Ditto on the Termite. Smaller turnings work real well with it. Larger items seem to turn easier with a SHARP gouge than using the Termite and the gouge is faster. I have tried the Termite to clean up larger turnings and it works well, but it is slow. I find that it is quicker to sand the larger pieces.

Dried end grain is where the Termite shines.

Reply to
Bill B

Dave, Turning end grain has it's own problems, even a chainsaw doens't cut end grain well. On the outside of the bowl, you cut from the top rim of the bowl towards the base. On the inside, you cut from the center out and up towards the rim. As always tools have to be sharp. On the inside, I open up the center with a gouge, and finish with various scrapers. I got a Supercut tool from Packard Woodworks, and love the smooth shear scraping cuts that I get from it. Do find the closest turners club and go. Most of us can't resist talking shop. It has been my biggest learning experience in my 7 years of turning. Ask questions. The only problem you may have is that you may get several different answers to your questions, just like this news group. Many different methods can yield the same results, you just have to figure out what works for you. If you can get to a few art and craft shows (at some shows, I'm an artist, some I'm a craftman, and some a woodworker, but the work is the same). If the turner isn't busy, talk to them. Getting ideas to experiment with helps. robo hippy

Dave in Fairfax wrote:

gouges,and some

Reply to
robo hippy

Until you're comfortable, taper the recesses of your pieces. That way there will be a definite downhill, where you'll get some fiber support for your cut. I use the edge of a fingernailed gouge or my pointy gouge to hollow and finish, but it can get grabby if you don't get the bevel onto the cut first, because you don't have good close support for the rest. Nose slightly up, bevel touching to the left, then roll the gouge slightly until the side portion of the grind - the part that's nearly vertical, comes into play. As always, let the wood find the tool, don't go stabbing and pressing, and you'll be able to pick the curl and draw it downhill.

For trimming the absolute end grain, Termite or other hook/ring tools are great. Use them as if they were a right-angled gouge, setting up with some shear angle near center, handle left, then catching the curl by moving the handle to the right and drawing through the cut. You really want to get the shear, not just for quality of cut, but because the tool fills up with scraper dust, while passing the continuous shaving well.

Reply to
George

Reply to
harryc

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