A few years ago, when I was doing alot of Brass camed panels for entry doors, I bought a custom made blade, don't remember the tooth now, but it was alot, on a 7 1/4" circular blade for a Delta chop/miter saw.
WAYYYY too much hp for the cames, even though there was alot of 3/8" U came involved, it was still too much saw for the job, it was a plain steel blade, not carbide either.
There was a small chop saw on the market for a time from Hoy's, they used small 4" blades from England, they got dull and loaded up, but the little motor on that was too weak for the job.
I turned to a dremel type rotary tool when I got tired of putting a piece down, forming/measuring and then walking "over there" and cutting then coming back and fitting, then do it again for the next piece. Now I move 90 degrees to my left and cut it with a rotary tool, then put it in place. Too much time walking back and forth to a bigger saw, and a hacksaw across the leaves on the face of the brass will deform it unless you clamp it in a miter box, but too many of my cuts don't fit the typical angles of a miter box either.
Whether or not and what scratched the bevels on a job, I have no idea, but there were brass particles at my helpers table so I assumed it was from the brass, if not , Oh well, I still had to re-bevel the entire window.
Don't know all the ins and outs of every little piece of material, but what works for me is the fiber cut off wheel on a rotary tool, Dremel or other. If I run it faster, the wheel is not in contact with the metal as long, and loading is reduced, but temperature of the piece does go up, if there is discoloration, that is where I am soldering anyway, and it cleans off.
By the way, annealed some brass, twisted it, tied it in a simple over hand knot, and wrapped it around a piece of bent lamp panel like stiff copper foil , worked just fine, cleaned it up with a green scrub pad, and damp cloth with whiting , didn't have to rub that hard either. So it will do what the copper did just fine.