Treatise on expanding a skirt pattern by 10"!

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Yup!  10 whole inches in a roundabout direction.

You know, with a pattern like this (Vogue 2796), you can't just divide
it by 4 and add it all at the side seams.  This is a lovely skirt, and
the proportions need to be preserved as far as possible.  It's made in 4
pieces, but that curved seam complicates things: there's not just the
curve at hip level, there's also the added flare in that panel seam as
well as on the side seams.  Extra has to be added with care.

First I tackled the basic additions and cut the main back and front
panels up what would be the dart placement if it had darts!  This meant
cutting both front and back panels in two places: down the length of the
full panel and down through the half yoke.  The same cut was made down
the side/front and side/back panels - once for each.  At each of the 4
cuts I added 1.25", giving me a total of 5": half my additional need.
Then I added 1.5" to each side seam, front and back, giving a total of
6" added at the side seams.  This allows for some preservation of the
width proportions, and seemed a reasonable compromise.  It also allows
me an extra inch in case it's needed for the difference between cutting
this from a stable knit and from a woven*.  This is toile Mark I, so if
it doesn't work, we can re cut and try again.  :)

I feel it's a shame this pattern only goes up to a size 22, as it's a
very flattering shape for the larger lady with no truly defined waist.
Unfortunately Vogue and the other major pattern companies don't seem to
cater for those of us with larger figures.  The half yoke on the slant
draws the eye away from the widest point, and the tea-gown length is
flattering to almost all ankles.

You know, I liked this pattern so much when my customer chose it that
I'm going to try it myself!  I'm still not going to cut it from a knit:
I have a light weight stretch denim with quite a bit of Lycra in it that
I've been saving because I had no idea what to do with it!  It'll make a
fun summer skirt!

*I have two 'areas of interest' with this pattern: not only is it too
small, but I'm making what is a knits pattern in a woven fabric!  I'll
keep you posted on progress after the toile fitting next week!  :)
--
Kate  XXXXXX  R.C.T.Q Madame Chef des Trolls
Lady Catherine, Wardrobe Mistress of the Chocolate Buttons
We've slightly trimmed the long signature. Click to see the full one.
Re: Treatise on expanding a skirt pattern by 10"!

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....


Isn't that a pretty skirt?  I made it in a navy blue stable-ish rayon
knit.  I like it so much that I'm going to make another one in dk gray
cotton jersey when I can get back into the sewing room.

--
Jenn Ridley : snipped-for-privacy@chartermi.net

Re: Treatise on expanding a skirt pattern by 10"!
Jenn Ridley wrote:
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I'm also thinking it might be good for some seriously delicious bitter
chocolate velour knit I have - if it isn't *too* stretchy!  :)

--
Kate  XXXXXX  R.C.T.Q Madame Chef des Trolls
Lady Catherine, Wardrobe Mistress of the Chocolate Buttons
We've slightly trimmed the long signature. Click to see the full one.
Re: Treatise on expanding a skirt pattern by 10"!

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Wow!  I love that skirt.  Can't wait to see the pictures.  And I agree, it
would be very flattering on a fuller figure.  Good luck Kate!!

Sharon

--
Never try to teach a pig to sing.  It's a waste of time and just annoys the
pig.



Re: Treatise on expanding a skirt pattern by 10"!
Sharon Hays wrote:

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I can't think of anyone it *wouldn't* flatter!  One more reason to love
Issey Miyaki!  :)

--
Kate  XXXXXX  R.C.T.Q Madame Chef des Trolls
Lady Catherine, Wardrobe Mistress of the Chocolate Buttons
We've slightly trimmed the long signature. Click to see the full one.
Re: Treatise on expanding a skirt pattern by 10"!
Kate Dicey wrote:

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Hmmmm, I dunno.  Looking at the illustration, it seems to me that that
seam across the abdomen might just emphasize the "pot" on many fuller
figures.

Olwyn Mary in New Orleans.
*** Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com ***

Re: Treatise on expanding a skirt pattern by 10"!
Olwyn Mary wrote:

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Nah...  It's below the abdomen.  That slanted seam on mine crosses at
about pubic bone level.  Disguises my rather round tummy quite nicely,
thank you!  :)
--
Kate  XXXXXX  R.C.T.Q Madame Chef des Trolls
Lady Catherine, Wardrobe Mistress of the Chocolate Buttons
We've slightly trimmed the long signature. Click to see the full one.
Re: Treatise on expanding a skirt pattern by 10"!

Issey Miyake and Claude Montana are my two very favorites.  Both have
always evoked much commentary when I wear clothes made from their
patterns.  And they are just so much fun to sew.  I always feel like my
money has been well spent when I buy these patterns.  What a pleasant
change from the typical, unconstructed, boring designs more typical of
the major pattern companies.  

Thanks for posting about this project, Kate!  I'll be reading any
updates with great interest.

Phae


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--
I fear me you but warm the starved snake,
Who, cherished in your breasts, will sting your hearts. (Henry VI, Shakespeare)

Re: Treatise on expanding a skirt pattern by 10"!
Phaedrine wrote:

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I'll try to post pix when it's done, but I'm not making a diary of this
one as I'm doing that for two other bigger projects right now, and could
get a bit pushed for time!

The toile is all cut out and I'll be sewing it tonight.  I might just do
my own version too!  :)  Mind you, that requires getting MY copy of the
pattern out of the loft, where I stashed it in the great tidy up last
week!  Will it ever surface, or has it gone like that 10m or sofa
fabric?  The plot thickens...  ;)

--
Kate  XXXXXX  R.C.T.Q Madame Chef des Trolls
Lady Catherine, Wardrobe Mistress of the Chocolate Buttons
We've slightly trimmed the long signature. Click to see the full one.
Re: Treatise on expanding a skirt pattern by 10"! Update! :)

The toile worked out fine.  Now I just need to wait until next week to
see if it actually fits the lady!  :)

My own version finally looks great - but it was a bit of a struggle!
Mostly a fitting issue, and you know what trying to fit something on
yourself is like - next to impossible!

Well, I discovered one of the down sides to having lost all this weight:
I'm back to altering Vogue patterns!  :(  Shades of my murky past...

I cut this one size 16, for a 40" hip, as this was my exact measurement
earlier today!  Makes a great change from 49-50!  :)  Trouble is that my
waist seems to have dropped another inch, and I had to take 4" out of
the waistline, this is stretchy fabric, and there's a concealed zip in
the side seam!  It came out and got put in again, and I finally got
everything sorted, and Alan approves!  :)  I even had to shave an inch
or so off the hips to get it to hang just right.  Because of my round
tummy and hollow back, this is not a snuggly fitted waistband (more room
for beer next weekend!), but it does look neat.  I need to chop 2 or 3
inches off the hem, as tea length on a model is rather longer when
you're only 5'4"!

So what did I do different with this one?

1: fabric - I used a woven stretch rather than the knit the pattern
calls for.  If I do a knit version, I'll cut it a size 14 to start with!

2: waistband - I didn't!  I used Petersham instead.  :)  Gives me a
finer waist under T shirts (which I like quite fitted), and is more
comfortable when sitting if you have a bit of a tummy below the waist,
as I have.

The only problem with the whole project is that the stretch denim sheds
colour like nothing else!  I have blue hands!  :D  Maybe I should have
washed it first...  or no!  I have a better idea!  Pora, just send those
cotton bras over, and I'll dye them baby blue for you when I wash the
skirt!  ;)

I love this pattern even more now, and will be making it again.  I have
some nice plaid wool in the loft.  Matching the plaid will keep me
amused on long winter nights...  ;)
--
Kate  XXXXXX  R.C.T.Q Madame Chef des Trolls
Lady Catherine, Wardrobe Mistress of the Chocolate Buttons
We've slightly trimmed the long signature. Click to see the full one.
Re: Treatise on expanding a skirt pattern by 10"! Update! :)

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I was so interested by your remarks, I put in a bid on eBay for the
pattern.  And then I discovered I had bid on the wrong size so I was
glad when someone outbid me!

--
I fear me you but warm the starved snake,
Who, cherished in your breasts, will sting your hearts. (Henry VI, Shakespeare)

Re: Treatise on expanding a skirt pattern by 10"! Update! :)
Phaedrine wrote:

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I got it half price as part of an order from Vogue through the magazine.  :)

--
Kate  XXXXXX  R.C.T.Q Madame Chef des Trolls
Lady Catherine, Wardrobe Mistress of the Chocolate Buttons
We've slightly trimmed the long signature. Click to see the full one.

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