Leif, please send Treatise

Look here:

Leif has posted his butt off on this subject, and many others have chimed in along the way. A quick search of the group will give you all you need. Robert

I've already done a search, and I haven't found the Treatise. I've found alot of ideas, but no definitive instructions. In many of his postings, he indicates that he'd be willing to forward the thing to whomever. So, I have done my due diligence. ;-)

Curt

snipped-for-privacy@aol.com schrieb:

> > Leif has posted his butt off on this subject, and many others have > chimed in along the way. > A quick search of the group will give you all you need. >

Try this

and scroll down to 'Experimental New Treatment for Wood'. BillR

>> >> Leif has posted his butt off on this subject, and many others have >> chimed in along the way. >> A quick search of the group will give you all you need. >>

Pretty simple really. Get a tub big enough to hold your bowls. fill with a mix of cheap brown (not blue or green) liquid dishwashing liquid (not dishwasher liquid) and equal amount of water. soak bowls for 24 hours or so. Remove. The same mix can be used over and over, but it will draw some of the colors out of the wood. Mine now looks like old motor oil. I may end up with 2 tubs, one for light color woods, and one for dark woods. The colors in the mix add only a little color to the wood, but almost all of it sands off.Drain and drip dry. Lief then sands and finishes his. The soap acts as a lubricant so if the sandpaper loads up, then the rubber eraser sticks will remove almost all of the build up. I take mine out back, and rinse off with the hose, let them drip dry, and then put on a shelf to finish drying. Since I turn to final thickness, usually 1/4 to 1/2 inch thick, they are dry in

10 to 14 days. This also lets most of the fragrances in the soap to fade away. Use your normal drying proceedure, bags, in the wood shavings, or on a shelf like me, it will vary depending on your local relative humidity. I haven't noticed that the LDD soaking, or DNA (denatured alcohol) soaking does anything for speeding the drying process, or keeping things from cracking and moving. In ease of sanding, LDD soaked bowls are much easier, non soaked bowls are normal, and the DNA bowls are harder. If you sand and finish right after the soak, this will aid the drying process also, You are sealing the wood which slows down the drying which is the most important step in drying bowl blanks. If you are going to leave the bowls thick and then return to final thickness, the soaking methods won't make any difference to the sanding ease. It really does make a big difference in how the wood sands, the paper doesn't load up as much, the dust clumps like big wet snow flakes, and there is less tendency for the wood to burn or glaze over (like big leaf maple or cherry), and it makes a wood like hard dry madrone sand easily. If you are searching this group for this method, look under LDD. You may want to check out DNA also. robo hippy

> >> > >> Leif has posted his butt off on this subject, and many others have > >> chimed in along the way. > >> A quick search of the group will give you all you need. > >>