Turkish Bread--Ekmek

In response to a request:

TURKISH RIDGE-PATTERNED BREAD (AGIK EKMEK OR PIDE)

Makes 2 large or 4 small ovals

SPONGE

1/4 teaspoon active dry yeast 1/2 cup warm water 5 ounces (approximately 1 1/8 cups) bread flour, plus more for dusting

DOUGH

1 teaspoon active dry yeast 1 1/4 cups warm water 1/2 teaspoon sugar 1 recipe sponge, at room temperature (see above) 2 tablespoons olive oil 14 ounces (approximately 3 cups) bread flour 2 ounces (1/2 cup) whole wheat flour 4 teaspoons fine salt Fine cracker crumbs, coarse cornmeal, or white poppy seeds for roiling out the dough Flour, a pinch of sugar, and water for glazing the dough 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon of nigella seeds or a handful of sesame seeds to sprinkle on top

In a deep, thick Ziploc bag, dissolve the yeast in a few tablespoons of the warm water. Add the remaining water, then gradually blend in the flour. Once the starter comes together, dust your hands with flour and gently knead to form a smooth, soft ball. Close the bag without sealing and leave at room temperature until airy, light, and bubbly, about 8 hours or overnight. Stir down the dough and use at once or press out air, seal, and refrigerate until ready to use, within one week. Or freeze the dough; return to room temperature, about 4 hours.

  1. In a large mixing bowl, combine the yeast, 1/4 cup water, and the sugar. Let stand until foamy. Stir down the starter in the plastic bag; cut into small pieces; add to the mixing bowl. Gradually incorporate 1 cup warm water, oil, 2
1/2 cups bread flour, whole wheat flour and salt to form a kneadable dough. Add more flour if necessary. Turn out onto a lightly floured surface and knead 10 to 15 minutes to achieve the proper consistency-an elastic, soft, and slightly blistered dough. (If you are using a food processor, halve the dough and knead each part for 30 seconds. Turn out and finish kneading by hand.)Lightly oil a medium bowl and turn the dough to coat on all sides. Cover with plastic wrap and let rise at room temperature until more than doubled in bulk, about 3 hours.

  1. Punch down the dough and turn out onto a work surface and briefly knead. Divide dough in half (or quarters); shape each into a smooth flattened mound. Cover with a cloth and let rise at room temperature until puffy, soft, lively, and spongy, about 2 hours.

  2. Preheat the oven to 4500F. Place a heavy baking stone or tiles or baking sheet on oven rack. Lightly sprinkle a wooden pizza paddle or an upside-down baking sheet with cracker crumbs, cornmeal, or white poppy seeds and set aside.

  1. Punch down the balls of dough and flatten with the palm of the hand to form an oval about 1-inch thick. To make it easier to coax into long ovals, lift one oval and drape it over your floured hands-palms down and fingers bent loosely underneath; slightly stretch each portion of the dough by carefully rotating your hands one after the other and coaxing the dough from the center outward. If the oval snaps back to a smaller size, cover it with a sheet of plastic and let it relax for 5 minutes. Wet the palms of your hands with water and tamp each oval to stretch to the desired length-approximately 14 inches by 8 inches. Place the first oval on the prepared paddle.

Combine the flour, a pinch of sugar, and enough water to make a thick paste. Dip four fingertips into the thick flour-water mixture and make deep lines down the length of the bread at 1-inch intervals, Lightly sprinkle with nigella seeds and/or sesame seeds and slide the oval(s) onto the heated stone or tiles.

Bake 8 to 12 minutes. Repeat with the second half of the dough. Keep warm in a kitchen towel. Repeat with the remaining portions of the dough. Cool the bread on wire racks. Return to the oven for 5 minutes to crisp just before serving.

Notes: If necessary, rotate the bread. Timing depends upon the size of the bread and the retained heat of the tiles. For a soft bread: Leave the oven door open during the latter half of the baking time. To make smaller ovals: Divide the dough into 4 parts and flatten each with the wet palm of the hand to form a 1-inch-thick oval. Wet palms and press out to 7 inches by 3 1/2 inches.

from: THE COOKING OF THE EASTERN MEDITERRANEAN by PAULA WOLFERT

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