And my favorite stick-um remover is Rubber Cement Thinner, which is gentler on the objects you're cleaning that most other solvents. Acetone in particular can eat some surface finishes you don't want eaten.
So far, I've only found it in art supply stores and Office Depot. Rubber Cement itself is everywhere, but the thinner is hard to find.
Cap it carefully and tightly, though, if you try it. It is so volatile it could evaporate overnight without a tight seal.
Deirdre
Can you anneal it between stages? That is what stops me from ordering a draw plate and trying it out.
Deirdre
vj found this in rec.crafts.beads, from Deirdre S. :
]Can you anneal it between stages? That is what stops me from ordering ]a draw plate and trying it out.
i don't have any idea. i had no idea you could anneal wire!
----------- @vicki [SnuggleWench] (Books)
Actually, that's what you have to do to have dead soft wire.
Tina
vj found this in rec.crafts.beads, from "Christina Peterson" :
]Actually, that's what you have to do to have dead soft wire.
OH!!!!!!!
[sometimes, the lights DO come on!]----------- @vicki [SnuggleWench] (Books)
Drawplate. You can draw knitted wire through the larger sizes, too. I saw this in WAJ.
You can get a variety of drawplates from Rio. Different sizes and shapes. There's a special kind of drawing pliers, too. Buy Rio's lubricant (Burr-something-the blue stuff) to make it easier. It really does work, too.
Mary
vj found this in rec.crafts.beads, from Mary Shafer :
]Drawplate. You can draw knitted wire through the larger sizes, too. ]I saw this in WAJ. ] ]You can get a variety of drawplates from Rio. Different sizes and ]shapes. There's a special kind of drawing pliers, too. Buy Rio's ]lubricant (Burr-something-the blue stuff) to make it easier. It ]really does work, too.
way cool! i already knew i liked you! and yes, it was a drawplate.
----------- @vicki [SnuggleWench] (Books)
I think if you are working it -hard-, the way you would be when you draw it through smaller and smaller holes, it would stiffen up to the point of being unworkable after one or two such treatments.
I expect the metal workers may have already answered this -- I am close to 500 messages behind -- but this is my impression of how it behaves, and why annealing is necessary for good results.
Deirdre
I think you could also use this methodology on purpose -in order- to change wire from dead-soft to half- or full-hard, if that was what you needed for a particular purpose.
Deirdre
vj found this in rec.crafts.beads, from Deirdre S. :
]I think you could also use this methodology on purpose -in order- to ]change wire from dead-soft to half- or full-hard, if that was what you ]needed for a particular purpose.
good point!
----------- @vicki [SnuggleWench] (Books)
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