I have an 8" slow speed (1725 rpm) grinder from Woodcraft and the T
handle diamond dressing tool. The *1#&% wheels are out of round by
1/16" and no matter what I do I can not dress them round. The wheels
also do not run true. I suppose it is like the bounce on a bowl.
Once started, one must make an entirely fresh cut to get the bounce
out. But how does one start a new cut? Would a single point diamond
work, and if so where does one buy one of those?
Paul, I have the same grinder/dressing tool combination. Because the
reforming process of the dressing tool is abrasion, not cutting, you
hold the tool against the wheel, approaching it in a radial direction,
not 'cutting' it in from the side (if that's what you are doing).
The secret for me to remove out-of-roundness is a light touch. Don't
let the dressing tool follow the contour of the wheel. If it does
press firmly against the wheel, and is allowed to move along the out-
of-round contour, it removes material at both the high spots and low
spots, but doesn't much even them out. I hold the dressing tool
firmly, moving the flat face of it slowly into the wheel, letting it
contact just the high spots. At the same time, to clean up any
grooving, I move the tool side-to-side, always keeping the tool steady
in the radial direction. As the high spots wear off, I slowly move
the tool inward to catch more of the high areas. After a short while,
the tool contacts more and more of the wheel, and eventually the wheel
is round and flat again. Works every time.
Ok.. going to assume from your description that you're more experienced in this
than I am, but the obvious questions first:
Are they properly installed?
Have you tried changing switching them just for giggles to see if they like the
other side better?
I use a single point dresser in my bowl gouge jig.. Seems to work best for me...
I have also had bad bushings/adapters, usually the plastic ones that adapt for
shaft size, so now I pop them out of new wheels and use the old ones that were
already running true...
Please remove splinters before emailing
The problem with the newer grinders is that to cut cost, the metal
disks that are supposed to keep your wheel true and square to the
shaft are now stamped out disks, rather than thicker precise fitting
machined disks, so now you have wobbling wheels and your grinder is
shaking, pretty hard to then get a nice round wheel, and even if you
did get it round the grinder is still vibrating,
Oneway makes a balancing set, doesn't come cheap but works great,
though your wheels need a 1" opening in your grinding wheels for the
set to fit.
You can try to get the metal disks straightened out and if you can,
then round the wheels, I have both the T handle and single point
dresser, I don't know why, but the single point gives me the best
wheel surface, I can't say anything about rounding the wheels as they
are round and balanced and I have no issues with it, I use a 10" low
speed grinder (1725rpm) and a old Stanley 8" high quality 3450rpm
grinder also, and if it was not for the humming of either one, you
wouldn't know they where running, both are standing loose and never
So fix one thing first, the wobbling, then tackle the other, that
should get you there.
Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo
here's what I do - note that none of this is "approved wood working
procedure" because it does not require buying lots of expensive
accessories - you can do this, or do something else
1, I get a cheap diamond saw cutting blade - typically a dollar or two on
sale at HF - a worn out one would be fine
2. resting blade on the grinder tool rest, slowly approach the face of the
wheel (with the grinder running) and let teh diamond blade cut the wheel
3. repeat on each side of the wheel to remove the wobble - brace the diamond
blade somehow of course
this works cheaply, quickly, and effectively. you don't need a fancy
balancing thingie or anything
note that you want a light touch, and that you should be careful cutting on
the sides of the wheel lest they explode on you