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"linen oil"? whazzat?

Sorry, because I am French, i made a mistake: it is linseed oil... Thank you

Suzanne

"Moonraker" a écrit dans le message de news:qSd2f.2549$ snipped-for-privacy@bignews4.bellsouth.net...

There are many OPINIONS about what makes a good recipe. Dennis, or rather Vic, have their opinon and I have mine.

The recipe you are asking about is: 1 1/2 parts Gum Turpentine,

1 part Linseed Oil, 1 part Molding Plaster, 2 parts Whiting. very small amount of carbon black IF preferred for color.

This has always worked for me, in nearly every case I can think of.

It's one of those things that I would much rather just buy in the hardware store for a few bucks..... hey some folks make their own foil too...... JMHO

Sinrod, what type and brand of putty can you get in a hardware store? A number of manufacturers who made linseed oil stopped it's production. Premade linseed oil is getting hard to find.

As far as plaster in putty. The issue is that plaster is hygroscopic (absorbs water). Moisture over time will damage lead,glass and glass paint. So why use it? It serves no real purpose.

Sinrod, what type and brand of putty can you get in a hardware store? A number of manufacturers who made linseed oil stopped it's production. Premade linseed oil is getting hard to find.

As far as plaster in putty. The issue is that plaster is hygroscopic (absorbs water). Moisture over time will damage lead,glass and glass paint. So why use it? It serves no real purpose.

It serves to firm the mix and absorb the oil. I have always used it, never tried not using it. Maybe I will do that, but I am also of the belief that "if it isn't broke, don't fix it."

And yes, raw plaster is Hygroscopic, once it has been mixed, it isn't raw anymore, and mixing with the oil/turp, ( don't like that one either?) causes the whole mix to firm up, not harden completely. There are alot of jobs that I can't wait for the "putty" to firm up and not ooze out of the leads. I can't stand leaded panels that rattle every time someone across the room shuts a door, even if the panel is an interior one, and doesn't "need" to be weatherproof.

Tell you what, your mix works for you, mine works for me, and it's a no win situation to argue what is "right". It's opinion.

You can buy glazing putty from any supply house, or use DAP thinned out of the can. Go on and tell me what a horrible mistake this is. How it will destroy the glass, lead, and burn down the house. I'm going on 25 years with thousands of panels, and have yet to have one need any reglazing.

Don't be so testy. I just wanted to know what brand of linseed oil putty you get at hardware stores. As I said many manufactures stopped producing linseed oil putty. Even Dap.

"burn down the house"? Did I say that?

What's wrong with Linseed Oil as an ingredient? Why did they stop using it?

Last time I was in Home Depot looking for Turpentine, they didn't have any at all. Wonder what owl-loving tree hugger screwed that up?

Java

By all means do what you like. No argument from me. It's called a discussion. There are others who are learning. So any and all info is important to THEM.

As you know in a few years putty starts to dry out. First on the outside edge, then eventually under the came leaf. As this happens the plaster also dries out and starts absorbing moisture. Nothing we do happens very quickly. The possible damage I spoke of takes many years to happen. Technique is relative to the type of work you do. Residential jobs often require different approaches then church or historical jobs.

Do you wet (brush) putty or thumb putty? Wet putty takes longer to set up then thumb putty. Do you use "raw" or "boiled" linseed oil? Raw takes a lot longer to set up.

I don't know what the deal is. I've been told by retailers that traditional materials like linseed oil, linseed oil putty,whiting are not selling very well. So they stop carrying them, so there is little need to manufacture them. Recently I had to go to 4 different store to fine raw linseed oil. Whiting is a special order from Janovic (a large NYC paint store).

Got any Grass Football fields near you for the local sports teams, High school, whatever? That's what they put on the field for marker lines, doesn't burn the grass or the kids eyes.... try a different line of suppliers, the cut stone people usually have it also, for the local teams...about $3.00 a bag

Good, a little background then....

I use boiled Linseed oil, and we brush it in, I am going for speed. (LOVE the Zing brush, ask me about it, you will love it too.)

Small shop, few people, and everybody has more than one job on any given day. I need to maximize production time.

I got into this business in the late 70's building decorative door lites for a then-new industry in the Northern Midwest, Steel Entry doors for residential construction and remodeling. They wanted something decorative, for their doors. When you are touting the benefits of Thermal Insulated steel entry doors, you can't put a single pane glass in it, so the advent of thermal dual pane glass units.

We leaded the windows and at first, did not putty, they were going inside a thermal. But cleaning was a problem, spend more time cleaning than building. Then there was the rattle of the glass/lead inside the thermal, tried cementing, solved both problems, cleaning is not as bad and no dust drops out of the leads while in the door. Note: CANNOT install in a house with no overhang that faces south, will off-gas and cloud up. When you cut the unit open, smells of Linseed oil, YEARS after it has been sealed, no matter how dry it was before sealing.

The formula I use, does work for what we use it for. Have done many, many church windows, and houses with exposure to the windows, although admittedly, many have some sort of polycarbonate as a storm/protector. I go back, whenever I am in a neighborhood, and check on my work, the area isn't that big that I don't get around, and have never had to do any sort of touch up on a puttyed window.

i believe linseed oil is available through painting suppliers (as in oil painting). Try Dick Blick .com, m