COE of Kokomo Glass?

Does anyone know the COE of Kokomo Stained Glass? I have called and emailed this company a couple times with no answers. Every other glass company has been a tremendous help, but not Kokomo.

Any help would be appreciated! :)

Reply to
Janet R
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Since Kokomo does not apparently sell its glass for fusing, it does not test for a specific compatibility with a COE, so its colors may vary wildly in COE. The only time it would have problems if it could not make swirlies, etc. If you wish to use Kokomo, you will have to test colors against what ever you want to use as base glass for strain. Someone who has done the testing may be willing to share what they found, but probably for only the specific colors they liked and tested.

Reply to
Mike Firth

Thanks...I have quite a bit of it due to a large clearance sale. I use it lampworking, but have only been using individual glass for each bead. I will test the glass before I make anything with a mixture.

Janet R

| > Does anyone know the COE of Kokomo Stained Glass? I have called and | > emailed this company a couple times with no answers. Every other | > glass company has been a tremendous help, but not Kokomo. | >

| > Any help would be appreciated! :) | >

| >

| > -- | > Janet | >

| >

| |

Reply to
Janet R

i asked that of them a couple of years ago. here's their reply:

Bullseye & Uroboros both have chemical treated ring mottels. As far as slumping our glass, I have experimented with slumping our glass & have found that on the opals it is critical to catch the glass right when it falls then vent the kiln down to 1050F as quickly as possible, then follow your normal ramp down. Over firing is usually the cause of devitrifacation. There are several studios that slump & fuse our glass with great success. Here is some more info that might be helpful to you.

Some General Information about Fusing with Kokomo Glass

First and foremost, the following information is intended to assist you in your experimenting and testing, and is expressly NOT intended to suggest that we make any claims as to the suitability of our products for fusing. Or to be plainer: fuse at your own risk.

Annealing Temperature for Cathedral Colors:

Anneal: 945 F

Strain Point: 872 F

COE: Generally in the neighborhood of 92-94, but you will need to test each sheet if they are from different runs. Even different runs of the same color can have significantly different fusing properties.

Annealing Temperatures for Opals:

Opal D Anneal: 891 F Strain Pt. 833 F

Opal M Anneal: 914 F Strain Pt. 851 F

Opal ML Anneal: 930 F Strain Pt. 862 F

Opal L Anneal: 936 F Strain Pt.

867 F

Typical Ramping Up?Allow 1 hour per ¼? of thickness. All kilns behave differently. Test in your kiln to adjust for faster or slower times. Projects with more surface area may require slower ramping.

Typical glasses will begin to sag at around 1050 F.

Annealing?Soak 1 hour per ¼? of thickness @ 945F

Ramp to strain point 872 F

(1/4? thick piece should take 2-3 hours)

Soak @ strain point 15 minutes per ¼? thickness

Ramp down to room temperature.

For ¼? thick piece, turn kiln off and do not vent until 250 F.

If you are fusing Kokomo glass, Experiment, Experiment, Experiment and Test, Test, Test. Some colors devitrify more than others. Reds and yellows hate to be fused.

Reply to
Charles Spitzer

Thanks! I will have to test it like crazy. I have been using it for lampworking and its the only glass that has so many surprises.

I probably will stick to uroboros and soft glass for now.

Janet R

| > Does anyone know the COE of Kokomo Stained Glass? I have called and | > emailed this company a couple times with no answers. Every other | > glass company has been a tremendous help, but not Kokomo. | >

| > Any help would be appreciated! :) | >

| >

| > -- | > Janet | >

| >

| |

Reply to
Janet R

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