glass saws

A few years ago I saw a glass crafter simultaneously cutting multiple pieces for lamp panels. It appeared that he'd laminated several layers of glass together and was cutting them with a saw. At the time I wasn't interested in this technique, so I didn't question him, and, of course, I've long forgotten his name. Now, I'd like to learn this technique and get a suitable saw.

Can anyone tell me how this is done and what kind of saw is best for this application?

Romayne

Reply to
Romayne Naylor
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The best is the Taurus ring saw. I just may have one or 2 for sale?

Reply to
Glassman

Great. That's the kind I've been looking at. Now I guess I have to decide betwen the Taurus II.2 and Taurus 3. I suppose the details of your saws are on your website? I'll check it out. Thanks.

Also, can you tell me how this works? How do you hold the layers of glass together and how many can you cut at once? What I have in mind is using this method to cut lamp shade panels so that they are perfectly matched.

Romane

Reply to
Romayne Naylor

Wanna suggestion? From someone who has been there, tried that?

Forget the whole idea. It isn't worth the hassle. Save your money.

By the time you get glass adhered together and cut with a saw, you could have cut them by hand. You will only spend lots of money on a very poorly designed "tool" and you won't be ahead of the game one bit.

If you want to try this, you are going to stack the glass with double-sided masking tape between the glass layers.

One of two things will happen, and they are both bad. Either the adhesive will come loose and the stack will shift, thus ruining your cuts. Or, the adhesive will clog up the diamond saw blade. And if you can manage to get the glass to stick together long enough to cut it with a saw, you'll probably break it trying to get the adhesive off.

Have you ever HEARD a Taurus saw run? You will want to wear ear protection. The one I used sounded like a NewHolland hay baler. Personally, I wouldn't waste the time to open the box if someone were to send me a brand new one, for free.

If you have the production needs to have lots of identical pieces of glass...get them cut with a water jet. If you are planning on making lamp shade parts that are the 4-6-8-10- or 12 panel trapezoidal flat panels, use a Morton Glass Shop and/or make yourself a jig.

If you are making Tiffany copies on an Oddessy form, I promise you that you can cut and grind the 6 or 8 pieces by hand in a conventional manner before you can stack up, cut (slowly) with a saw, untape the stack, and you'll still have to grind to shape because the Taurus won't cut that precisely.

Reply to
Moonraker

Sorry I don't sell supplies and tools on the web. I barely sell them in my shop, but I do have a couple of brand new Taurus 2's that could use a good home. I have to tell you that I used to be a crusty oldtimer-stick in the mud about these saws for years. I cut everything by hand, and anyone that didn't do the same wasn't a real man. Last year I bought a bunch to sell to my students, and opened one up for a demo. After using it a few times for some really deep inside curves I was hooked on them. Not only is it fast and accurate and saves lots of time, but it also has changed the way I design things forever. I now have the freedom to design what I want without worry. I certainly don't use it all the time, or for any simple cuts, and I still consider it a luxury gadget. But I'll always have one around from now on. The Taurus 2 is perfectly fine, cheaper, and a bit louder then the 3.

Reply to
Glassman

Have to agree with Moon here. If you need to make many duplicates have them cut by waterjet. Will save you lots of time and frustration. It's not that expensive.

Jack

Reply to
nJb

there's another 3rd thing that will happen, and i've seen the results. you stack them up 4 or 5 high (which is not really recommended in the manual more than 2 high), cut it, the blade shatters, and gets driven through your hand.

Reply to
Charles Spitzer

About the Tarus saws; they are clearly in the "bell and whistle" category. I run a full service shop and have always had a Tarus for demos. I use it in my work only when I'm working on thick, fused glass to cut up for odd shapes for jewelry. Occasionally I work with Herringbone that gets testy so I'll use the band saw there.

The new ring saw is pretty neat but pretty expensive. It isn't as loud, it's easy to use as long as you go slow and it costs twice what the old ones do. They work great if you can afford one once you decide you really need one.

Jerry

nJb wrote:

Reply to
Jerry Maske

If you are looking for places to do glass cutting on a waterjet, here are a few links that may be useful to you:

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you need to drill holes (pierce) the glass, be sure to find a shopwith equipment that has low pressure piercing capability. Also, here are some pretty pictures of glass cutting done on a waterjet (techically "abrasive water jet" or "abrasivejet"):

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Carl
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Reply to
Carl

Dennis, what a great idea. A saw purchase was made impossible by the necessity of replacing my computer the week before Christmas. As a writer with the cover story of a national magazine on deadline, I didn't have any choice.

After reading all the information you folks kindly provided, I think I'll try Dennis's idea.

Thanks, everyone.

Okay, now what about band saws? Are the worth the investment?

Romayne

Reply to
Romayne Naylor

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