Hi, ALl, I was wondering whether anyone is familiar with air- filtration/fume hood type systems suitble for a very small in-home glassworking bench. Best would be somehting that coudl be lifted onto the working surface during soldering/grinding (tho' I intend to do most of my grinding outside, as I have a covered porch), then lifted off and moved when I'm wither scoring glass, or using the table for some other purpose.
TIA!
- Kris
Hakko makes a good fume trap and if you have a way to vent the air outside you could juririg a stove top exhaust. It's the fumes from the flux that you need to vent away not from grinding unless you are grinding dry.
Chemo the Clown wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@n19g2000prg.googlegroups.com:
Thanks, I'm looking up their info :)
((I'm trying to decide whether I should go for a fume hood or fume collector, or whether I could get away with turning my Miele on and wiring the nozzle to the desk (it has a HEPA filter and I can get either super- filter bags, or HEPA bags for "double filtering"), or whether I should get a window fan (pointed outdoors) and rig up a duct. Or maybe just get a small folding table and chair and do it outside before the day heats up too much ;) ))
- Kris
I have 15 or so Honeywell HEPA air cleaners all over my 2500 sqft shop. I got 6 from this guy a few monthsb ago. The price is cheaper than buying replacement filters
15? Geez, your shop must be in a cave! I have about 2200 shop and have one overhead extractor exhaust in my work area that moves over 800 cfm.
filters
These Honeywell units say they change the air in an 13'x13' room 6 times and hour. So I need about 15 units. I think these are better than and overhead unit as they are right on the benches where the dust and fumes are created. Not pulling all the dust through out the shop to the ceiling unit.
I imagine you didn't have to pay the exorbitant shipping fees though... since you live practically next door, you could just pick them up.
They gave a discounted shipping price and I got the order in 2 days
One thing to consider is that HEPA stands for (more or less) "High Efficiency Particulate Air" filter. The key word here is "particulate". Although they are very good at trapping very tiny particles, there is a lot of non-particulate stuff (fumes) that are released during soldering. HEPA won't do squat about those.
Like Chemo noted, you need a fume trap (does Hakko make one big enough for sg work? I only know of their electronics stations). A homemade fume hood using a stove hood and venting *outside* would be much better than any filtration system. Just extend the sides of the hood down further towards your bench.
Of course, there are advantages for good air filtering as well, but ridding a shop of fumes ain't one of them.
Joe
Below is a link to the Hakko fume extractor. It explains the filters used. These are the same type of filters that are used in the Honeywell 17250 HEPA air cleaner that I liked to in my earlier post.
http://72.14.205.104/search?q=cache:HePBzXQf9r0J:
Description
Fume and Smoke Extraction System
The HJ3100 fume extraction unit is designed expressly for use at soldering stations, extracting the contaminated air directly at the source.
The HJ3100 is a high-mass flow, low vacuum system. Contaminated air is captured from the workplace surrounding the soldering station by the hood or hoods, and transferred to the HJ3100 unit by flexible or rigid ducts.
Inside the unit, two filters, comprising three stages of filtering, remove the contaminants from the air. The purified air is then returned to the area where the HJ3100 is located.
The pre-filter is made of a treated polyester material that removes coarse particles, such as dust, thus extending the life of the main HEPA filter. The HEPA (High Efficiency Particulate Air) filter consists of a pleated fiberglass paper medium, providing the greatest amount of surface area within the volume of the filter case.
The standard filters used in the HAKKO HJ3000-series fume extractors contain an activated carbon element built into the filter. This filter is designed to last the life of the main HEPA filter. Carbon filters have absorption ratings of 80-85%.
Efficiencies of the various HEPA/carbon filters for the HJ3100 are greater than 98% at 0.3 microns. All tests per the DOP test as stipulated in MIL-Std-282.
A wide range of accessories are available.
Filtering Stages
Click image to enlarge
The Hakko filtering process supports three stages of filtering.
The pre-filter removes course particles, such as dust, which may be suspended in the air. This extends the service life of the HEPA filter.
The main HEPA/Carbon filter, then purifies the air in two ways. As the HEPA filter removes particles as small as 0.3 micron, the carbon filter absorbs gases and odors from the filtered air.
Another larger carbon filter then absorbs more gases and odors from the air.
================================ squirrel cage motor
4" flexible dryer hose attached to the motor wood or styrofoam with 4" hole for the dryer hose place in window and close window until it abuts the above vent 4" dryer hose to the outsidecheap, easy and effctive
hsnipped-for-privacy@debrady.com wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@i36g2000prf.googlegroups.com:
That's great info, Thanks! I had no ideal about the calculations. My work area is currently very small (a 6'X3' folding table with an additional laminate desk-top, over which I place a 3'X2' Homasote or cork board, depending upon what I'm doing). So now I can actually calculate what I need :)
The Dragon is amazing...same for the "Cutty Sark" - wow! Fun site.
Joe wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:
Oh, OK - so the main thing is venting to the outside. My desk (I'm just starting out) is right in front of a douple window, so maybe I should rig up a vent (rather than leaving the whole window open to the Houston heat'n'humidity ;) ) that'd funnel air the 18" or so from the desk to the window, maybe put a particualte filter up-front so the fan doesn't get all clogged up.
I can't go too expensive so, if it seems like I'm lookng for inexpensive solutions, it's becasue I am At the same time, I don't want to ignore safety. So far, I'm doing granding and soldering outdoors, but it's a bit warm right now ;) ((I'd looked at a few soldering-station units, but all they seem to have is a charcoal filter, so I didn't get any of those.))
Thanks for the info! -
- Kris
snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@34g2000hsh.googlegroups.com:
Educational, esp. the link to the page explaining the filtration - that explained a lot. This definitely is an item to keep in mind (and budget for ;) ).
Thanks!
- Kris
howard wrote in news:AMWdnUlog-BYH8PVnZ2dnUVZ snipped-for-privacy@scnresearch.com:
I googled this, but the only such motors I found prices for *started* at over $700 =8-O !
But I'd considered a similar setup using a regular tabletop fan, or a duct fan, with a good CFM rating, since both are easily available.
I looked at some pics of the motors and they're awfully complex, so I'm thinking along the lines of a duct fan, or at e last a ducted fan. I jsu thtought of this now, but might be an idea to look at the ducted fans used to build and fly large model jets... I hadn't thought of that before...
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