Stewart System

What is it you would like to know? For a start have a look here:

and see if this is any help.

Mike

Thanks for the l>What is it you would like to know? For a start have a look here:

For hollowing I do like the small 1/4" tips. It's hard to get into too much trouble with this size cutter/scraper. I use the teardrop shaped ones for a final pass shear scraping to get as good a finish as I can. Some of the small holes in my hollow vessels don't allow me to do much in the way of sanding so I try to get the best cut I can. HTH.....

The system I obtained didn't have cutter and mount you describe (at least I think I know the one you mean). You are probably refering to the RS211 Swivel Tip that I have located on the Sorby Site. I'll investigate this.

For any>

Nope the Stewart system I have does not have a RS211 tip. I use a 1/4" square cutter ground with a bullnose shape for my hollowing with the Stewart system. Recently I have been using the Stewart armbrace with the John Jordan tools. I like the "cleaner" shape of his tools for getting in smaller holes.

How does the 1/4" cutter attach to the swan neck; or do you only use it in the straight bar that takes such sized cutters?

I appreciate your information and have realised from your post that a

3/4" system will fit the Stewart handle. Being a tinkerer, I guess I could make up some items myself (with care).

Safe Turn>Nope the Stewart system I have does not have a RS211 tip. I use a 1/4"

John's tools are certainly reduced to the minimal required. Simple is often the best.

I'll certainly keep the idea of making bars to fit the handle system in mind for the future.

Thanks for your advice. Alan

30Gb $9.95 Carry Forward and On Demand Bandwidth I've been using a Stewart tool for almost 20 years. I can't help you with original printed instructions but I'm open to answering questions.

The Stewart tool uses a 3/16 in. cutter, not 1/4 in. as some have said. The straight bar attachment does use a 1/4 in. cutter

The fact tha you can swivel the cutting tip has a big advantage over tools that don't have this feature. You can swivel the cutter so that it's prsented to the wood in the best possible way, depending on where inside the vessel you're cutting. This is especially important in the upper portion of a vessel with a small opening.

I have a second hooker bar with a teardrop scraper attached. Only takes a few seconds to switch. I use the scraper for smoothing the inside.

G'day Wally,

Appreciate your comments. From information I have been able to gather, the tip of the teardrop cutter can be used for "faster" hollowing and then the larger radius edges for cleaning up.

It appears that the 3/16 in. cutter can be adjusted not only for angle, but also for depth (cutter overhang). This seems a great advantage expecially when the tool overhang is large.

Can you explain the way you have found it is best to present the cutter to the wood.

Many thanks, Alan

Alan, When you're cutting in the lower portion of the vessel, the

3/16th is cutter positioned as if it's an extension of the hook in the bar. About the same as tools such as Jordan's that don't swivel. For cutting in the upper part of the vessel, the cutter is swiveled counter-clockwise a bit so that it does a better job of contacting the wood and therefore cuts better. How much it's swiveled should be a matter of experimenting. I suggest that you practice by turning a vessel with a wide opening so that you see the cutting action. Of course when the opening is small you can't see the action at all.

You'll find the the 3/16th cutter is more agressive than the teardrop scraper is, so that it removes wood faster. I use it for my initial cutting.

When cutting inside the vessel you should be cutting on-center or a little bit above center. Never below center. You'll get a smoother cut if you tip the cutter down a bit. The pistol grip allows good control of this.

Good Luck, Wally

Careful with that large radius! It can generate a lot of heat, and I have checked more than one nearly finished piece by keeping it in contact too firmly with the inside surface.

Wally, very clear instructions, thank you.

I will also practice on a small piece positioned well away from the tool rest to learn about the force I'll be feeling when the tip is hidden.

Many thanks, Alan

George,

Appreciate the warning.

Thanks, Alan