Just finished my first pair of handmade boots and I'm second guessing the stitching. I used pebble grain leather for the uppers and did contrast white thread all the way around, lace-to-toe style with brass eyelets. Looked great on the bench. After a week of actual wear though, the stitching across the top of the foot has gone all puckered and uneven, like the leather pulled away from the thread in spots. Is this just how pebble grain behaves when it flexes, or did I do something wrong? I saddle stitched the whole thing by hand and tightened every stitch as I went, but I'm wondering if I pulled too hard on the white thread since it was a slightly diferent wax than the brown I normally use. Or maybe the grain side just doesn't compress the same as smooth leather and I needed a bigger margin between the stitch line and the edge?
The welt and sole came out fine, no complaints there, it's purely a cosmetic thing on the vamp. Annoying though, because the whole point of the white thread was to show off the stitch line. Would love to hear if anyone else has run into this with textured leather before I start ripping stitches out.