A wallet rebuilt from scratch after the first one bulged

Oct 18, 2026 Last reply: 3 hours ago 4 Replies
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Most makers would live with a wallet that bulges once the cards go in, or patch the problem with a quick trim. This maker went the better route and remade the whole piece from scratch, which is the kind of decision that separates a throwaway project from a keeper. The result is a handcrafted multi-fold wallet in vegetable-tanned leather, closed with a snap button and finished with a stamped exterior in blue.



The construction reads as a proper full workflow. Panels are cut from paper patterns with masking tape and metal rulers guiding the way, then thinned with a skiving knife where needed. Stitch holes are punched through templates using a press fitted with chisels, and the components are held in a leather-padded stitching pony for saddle stitching in brown thread. Edges get sanded flush, then burnished with Tokonole using both a motorized burnisher and a handheld wooden slicker until they come out glossy.



Two details stand out to me. The repeating geometric pattern is stamped over a numbered metal grid plate on the dyed blue exterior, which should keep the spacing honest across the whole panel. And instead of brushing on dye, the maker uses sponge-tipped squeeze bottles and says the dye bottles are Paint Dabbers or Graffiti markers from Amazon, easier than brushes. The blue and brown card slots give the inside a nice contrast against the brown strap that snaps around the front.



One question is still open: whether the extra clearance went into the outer piece or the inner pockets were shortened. That answer would make this an even more useful reference for anyone fighting the same bulge.


Stamping through a numbered grid plate seems like the smartest call in this whole build. Freehand repeat patterns drift badly, and even a small offset shows across a wallet face. The trade-off is setup time, but for a piece being remade anyway, spending that time to get the pattern even makes sense to me.

Curious about the fix itself: when the maker rebuilt the wallet, did the extra room come from making the outer piece bigger, or from shortening the inner pockets? That difference changes how the wallet closes up once it is loaded.

That has not been said by the maker as far as anyone here knows. The reason for the remake is clear, since the original lacked clearance and bulged, but whether the fix went into the outer panel or into the pockets is still an unanswered question.

Since the maker already found the dabber bottles easier than brushes, a possible next step would be using them to do a two-tone edge treatment, dyeing the edge coats to match the blue exterior rather than leaving them neutral. The motorized burnisher would still give the same glossy finish, and it would tie the stamped face and the painted edges together visually.

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