Bernina 180E owner's manual: Basting stitch

16 Basting stitch

Basting stitch

This feature is a stitch rather than a function (such as the long stitch). When this stitch (No. 21) is selected, the machine stitches a straight stitch, sewing every fourth one. The longest stitch possible is 20 mm when the stitch length is set at 5mm.

Stitch: Basting stitch No. 21 Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: cotton or polyester Stitch length: 3.5mm – 5mm Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1C

Basting stitch · for all work where a very long stitch is desired · quick and easy basting of seams, hems, etc. · easy to remove

TIPS

Securing a basted seam · to secure basting stitches, sew a few normal length straight stitches at the beginning and end of the seam

Basting · use a fine darning thread; it is easier to remove after the seam has been sewn

Blind hem

Stitch: Blindstitch No. 9 Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: cotton, polyester, or silk Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Blindstitch foot No. 5

Blind hem

· for invisible hems in medium to heavy cotton, wool and mixed fiber fabrics

Preparation

· finish the raw edges as desired · fold the hem and baste or pin in place · fold the garment back over the right side of the fabric to expose the finished lower edge · place the work under the presser foot (see drawing) with the guide positioned against the folded back fabric

Sewing

· the needle should just pierce the edge of the fold · adjust the stitch width to suit the fabric · after sewing about 10 cm (4"), check both sides of fabric and adjust the stitch width if necessary

wrong side of fabric wrong side of fabric right side of fabric

TIP

Fine stitch width adjustment · guide the raw edge along the guide on the foot to keep the stitch depth even

18 Elastic, cord

Sewing on narrow elastic with Universal stitch

Stitch: Universal stitch No. 15 Stitch width: depends on width of elastic Needle: type and size to suit the fabric selected Thread: cotton or polyester Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1C or Embroidery foot No. 6 (optional accessory)

Sewing on elastic · for gathering long lengths of fabric, frills and flounces in fine fabrics · works well for gathered sleeve edges and neck openings

Preparation · cut elastic to length required

Sewing · oversew the elastic, adjusting the stitch width to be slightly wider than the elastic · needle must not pierce the elastic · after sewing, adjust the gathers evenly

TIPS Secure the beginning and end of elastic · sew a few straight stitches backward and forward to secure the elastic

Quick hem finish · for children's or doll clothing · sew sleeve edges with elastic before sewing seams

Sewing on shirring elastic/cord with Gathering stitch

Stitch: Gathering stitch No. 12 Needle: size and type to suit the fabric selected Thread: cotton or polyester Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Buttonhole foot No. 3C

Shirring elastic/cord · for gathering long lengths of fabric

Preparation · cut shirring elastic or cord double the length of the edge · fold in half lengthways · hook over the center toe on the buttonhole foot · take both ends of the cord under the foot to the back

Sewing · sew a few stitches · lift the elastic or cord at the front and pull towards you · leave ends behind the presser foot · oversew cord without stitching into it · after sewing, pull the cord to gather the fabric · stretch elastic while sewing; the more it is stretched, the tighter the gathers

TIPS Securing beginning and end · sew a few stitches with the feed-dog lowered

Presser foot pressure · increase the foot pressure, if necessary, for better feeding of the fabric and cord

Elastic, cord 19

Sewing on wide elastic

Stitch: Running stitch No. 4 or Sewn-out Zig-zag No. 16 or Lycra stitch No. 17 Stitch length: adjust to suit elastic Needle: size and type to suit the fabric selected Thread: cotton or polyester Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1C

Wide elastic · for edges on sportswear and lingerie

Preparation · cut elastic to length required · divide fabric edge and elastic into 4 equal sections and mark · pin elastic to raw edge, matching up markings

Sewing · stretch the elastic to fit the raw edge while sewing · trim excess fabric close to the stitching

TIP

Preventing elastic from stretching too much · avoid over-stretching the elastic; adjust the presser foot pressure to suit the fabric.

20 Bar tack program

Bartack program

Stitch: Bartack program No. 24 or Buttonhole bartack No. 25 Needle: size and type to suit the fabric selected Thread: cotton, polyester, or rayon Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1C

Bartack program · for reinforcing seams subject to heavy wear such as those on pockets, jackets, jeans and overalls · use for attaching ribbons to a quilt for tying

Buttonhole bartack · for reinforcing buttonhole bartacks

Sewing · the machine starts top left with the bartack program · the machine stops automatically at the end of the program

TIP Decorative bar tacks · increase the stitch length and sew the bar tack program with decorative thread as a decorative element; combine with other stitches

Important information on buttonholes

Thread tension

• the tension is set automatically when a buttonhole is selected
• the upper tension is slightly looser than normal
• this gives a slightly rounded appearance to the beads, making the buttonhole more attractive

Manual buttonholes

• stitched using Buttonhole foot 3C
• the buttonhole length of manually stitched buttonholes must be marked on the fabric in the appropriate position

Automatic buttonholes

• stitched using Automatic buttonhole foot 3C
• mark the length of the first buttonhole
• after sewing the first buttonhole, the length for all subsequent buttonholes is automatically programmed
• mark the starting point of all subsequent buttonholes
• Buttonhole length = buttonhole opening in mm

Test sewing

• always sew a test on the fabric(s) you will use with the same interlining, interfacing, and stabilizers
• select the same buttonhole type
• sew the buttonhole in the same direction on the fabric (with or against the grain)

Corrections

To adjust the bead width:

• alter the stitch width

Altering the stitch length:

• any alterations to the stitch length affect both beads (making them more or less dense)
• always stitch a new sample to reprogram the buttonhole after any changes are made to the stitch length

Balance for automatic/manual buttonholes

• any balance alterations affect both beads

Balance for stitch counter buttonholes

• any balance alterations affect the first (left) bead: Bead too dense – if the first bead looks like A, use the “down” arrow to correct it Bead not dense enough – if the first bead looks like B, use the “up” arrow to correct it
• always stitch a new sample to reprogram the buttonhole after any changes are made to the balance

A B

Clear balance

• press the external clr button

22 Buttonholes

Corded Buttonhole · gimp cord reinforces buttonholes and enhances their appearance · the loop of the cord should be at the end of the buttonhole most subject to wear or where the button is sewn on · position the work accordingly · gimp cord is particularly recommended for standard and stretch buttonholes

Suitable cords: · Perle yarn No. 8 · strong hand sewing thread · fine crochet yarn · gimp cord

Hooking the cord onto presser foot No. 3C · insert the needle at the beginning of the buttonhole · raise the presser foot · hook the cord over the center toe of the foot

· place both ends of the cord in the grooves on the sole of the foot and pull them to the back · lower the presser foot

Sewing · sew the buttonhole in the usual manner · do not hold the cord tightly · the buttonhole will form over the cord, covering it

Securing the cord · pull the cord through the buttonhole until the loop disappears into the end of it · pull the ends of the cord through to back of the fabric · knot or secure with stitches

Buttonholes 23

Hooking the cord in the automatic buttonhole foot No. 3A

• insert the needle at the beginning of the buttonhole
• raise the presser foot
• guide the cord under the foot to the right
• hook the cord over the pin at the back of the foot

• bring the cords to the front of the foot
• pull each end into one of the notches at the front of the foot

Sewing

• sew the buttonhole in the usual manner
• do not hold the cord
• the buttonhole will form over the cord, covering it

Securing the cord

• pull the cord through the buttonhole until the loop disappears into the end of it
• pull the ends of the cord through to back of the fabric
• knot or secure with stitches

Cutting buttonholes open

• using the seam ripper, cut from the ends towards the middle

Buttonhole cutter and block (special accessory)

• place the fabric on a piece of wood
• place the cutter in the center of the buttonhole
• press the handle of the cutter to open the buttonhole

24 Buttonholes

Straight stitch buttonholes

Straight stitch buttonholes are useful as a foundation for satin stitched buttonholes on soft and loosely woven fabrics that fray easily. The buttonhole beads and bartacks of the second (satin stitched) buttonhole will cover the straight stitching.

They are also good for stitching bound buttonholes and reinforcing buttonhole openings on leather, vinyl, and felt.

Stitch: Straight stitch buttonholes No. 59 Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: cotton or polyester Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Buttonhole foot No. 3C or Automatic Buttonhole Foot No. 3A

Automatic program with Automatic buttonhole foot No. 3A · if using Automatic buttonhole foot No. 3A, the sensor on the foot will automatically register the length of the buttonhole so it can be duplicated

Sewing the automatic buttonhole program · sew the first line of straight stitches forward until the desired length is reached · press and release the quick reverse button · auto appears = length is programmed · machine completes the buttonhole program automatically · all subsequent buttonholes will be stitched to the same length (without pressing the quick reverse button) · the distance between the stitched lines can be adjusted with the stitch width

Stitch counter program with buttonhole foot No. 3C · select function presser foot 3C for stitch counter buttonholes · Buttonhole foot no. 3C will register the number of stitches in the buttonhole

Sewing the stitch counter buttonhole program · sew the first bead, stop stitching at the desired length · press and release the quick reverse button · continue sewing; the machine will stitch the end of the buttonhole and then the second bead in reverse · stop stitching when the needle reaches the first stitch · press and release the quick reverse button · machine sews the horizontal bar and securing stitches · machine stops automatically · auto appears on the screen · each subsequent stitched buttonhole will be sewn to the same length as the programmed buttonhole

Automatic buttonholes (all types)

Both beads are sewn in the same direction.

Buttonhole lenght = buttonhole opening in mm

Stretch buttonholes are particularly effective on all knit fabrics because the double overlock stitch used for the beads stretch with the fabric while keeping its shape.

Note: The automatic buttonhole foot 3A must lie perfectly flat on the fabric. If the foot lies on a seam, the length cannot be measured accurately.

Stitch: Buttonhole (all types) Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: cotton or polyester Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Automatic buttonhole foot No. 3A

Automatic buttonhole · the lens on automatic buttonhole foot No. 3A automatically registers the length of the buttonhole for exact duplication · buttonholes from 4–29 mm can be sewn

Sew the first bead · the stitching sequence is displayed on the screen (to the right of the presser foot symbol) · sew the first bead forward, stopping at the desired length

Program the buttonhole · press and release the quick reverse button · auto appears on the screen to indicate that the buttonhole length is programmed · continue sewing; the machine completes the buttonhole and stops automatically

Auto buttonhole · machine stops in position to begin the next buttonhole · reposition the fabric and sew; all subsequent buttonholes will be sewn automatically to the same length (without pressing the quick reverse button)

Important: · if you make a mistake, press the Pattern Begin function · the machine reverts to the beginning of the buttonhole

TIPS

Exact duplicates · the auto function ensures that each buttonhole will be exactly the same length as the previous one

Marking · mark only the beginning of the buttonholes – a real time saver!

Sewing speed · sew at moderate speed for best results · sew all buttonholes at the same speed for a consistent bead density

26 Buttonholes

Automatic round and keyhole buttonholes

Both beads are sewn in the same direction. Buttonhole lenght = buttonhole opening in mm

Stitch: Round buttonholes 54–55 and keyhole buttonholes 56–58 Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: cotton or polyester Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Automatic buttonhole foot No. 3A

Automatic buttonhole · the lens on automatic buttonhole foot No. 3A automatically registers the length of the buttonhole for exact duplication · buttonholes from 4–29 mm can be sewn

Sew the buttonhole · the stitching sequence is displayed on the screen (to the right of the presser foot symbol) · sew straight stitches forward, stopping at the desired length

Program the buttonhole · press and release the quick reverse button · auto appears on the screen to indicate that the buttonhole length is programmed · continue sewing; the machine completes the buttonhole and stops automatically

Auto buttonhole · machine stops in position to begin the next buttonhole · reposition the fabric and sew; all subsequent buttonholes will be sewn automatically to the same length (without pressing the quick reverse button)

Important: · if you make a mistake, press the Pattern Begin function · the machine reverts to the beginning of the buttonhole

T I P S

Exact duplicates · the auto function ensures that each buttonhole will be exactly the same length as the previous one

Marking · mark only the beginning of the buttonholes – a real time saver!

Double sewn keyhole buttonholes · keyhole buttonholes can be sewn twice on thick fabrics · after sewing the first buttonhole, do not move the work · simply tap the foot control once to begin sewing again

Stitch counter buttonholes for all buttonhole types (can not be saved in memory)

The first (left) bead is sewn forwards, the second (right) bead is sewn in reverse.

Stitch: Buttonholes (all types) Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: cotton or polyester Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Buttonhole foot No. 3C

Stitch counter buttonholes · Select the stitch counter buttonhole function

Length of first bead · sew the first bead, stopping at the desired length · press and release the quick reverse button

Bartack, second bead · bottom bartack and second bead are sewn in reverse · stop machine at the first stitch · press and release the quick reverse button

Bartack, securing stitches · machine sews the top bartack and securing stitches · machine stops automatically · auto appears on the screen · the buttonhole is programmed and saved · each subsequent buttonhole will be sewn identically

Corrections · reprogram the buttonhole if any alterations to the stitch width, length, or balance have been made

Programmed buttonhole on a different fabric · different fabrics and interfacings can affect the look of a stitch counter buttonhole · if you are using a new material, program the buttonhole again

TIPS

More buttonholes with presser foot No. 3C · ideal for buttonholes which are difficult to sew with the larger foot of Automatic buttonhole foot No. 3A

Beautiful buttonholes · keep the speed consistent for beads of equal density · sew at a moderate speed for best results

Marking · mark only the beginning of the buttonholes – a real time saver!

28 Buttonholes

Manual 4/6-step buttonholes (all types)

Sewing buttonholes manually is ideal if you only need to sew one; also for repairing existing buttonholes.

The number of steps depends on the type of buttonhole. A manually sewn buttonhole cannot be saved.

Stitch: any buttonhole Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: cotton or polyester Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Buttonhole foot No. 3C

Open the program · select the type of buttonhole desired (stitches 51-59) · select the manual buttonhole function from the toolbar

Step symbols · the step sequence is shown on the screen: · standard buttonhole has 6 steps · round buttonhole has 4 steps · keyhole buttonhole has 4 steps · the arrow in the circle is on "0" when the buttonhole is first selected

Sewing a 4 or 6 step buttonhole · touch 1 on the screen and sew the first bead · stop the machine at the desired length · touch 2, sew · continue in this manner until the buttonhole is complete

TIP Repairing buttonholes · use the steps which are necessary to repair the worn sections, omitting or bypassing the unneeded ones

Button sewing-on program

Stitch: Button sew-on program No. 60
Stitch width: depends on the distance between the holes
Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected
Thread: cotton or polyester
Feed-dog: down (darning position)
Presser foot: Button sew-on foot No. 18 (optional accessory)

Button sew-on program

• sews buttons with 2 and 4 holes
• the shank (thread length between button and fabric) can be made shorter or longer as required
• buttons being sewn on for decorative purposes only can be stitched without forming a thread shank

2-hole button

• select Button Sew-on program
• check distances between holes with the handwheel
• adjust stitch width if necessary
• hold the threads when starting to sew
• sew; machine stops automatically when program is completed
• machine is automatically ready for the next button

Beginning and ending threads

• the threads are secured and can be trimmed

For secure results:

• cut the upper thread close to the button
• pull both bobbin threads until the upper thread is visible on the wrong side
• trim bobbin thread (knot if desired)

4-hole button

• sew the front holes
• carefully move the button forward
• sew the back holes

TIPS

Sewing on buttons by machine

• a real time saver, especially when several of the same type buttons must be sewn on, e.g. shirts, blouses, etc.

Shortening zippers

• a zipper which is too long can be secured simply and quickly using the button sew-on program

30 Eyelets

Zigzag Eyelets

Stitch: Zig-zag Eyelet No. 61 Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: cotton, polyester, or rayon Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1C

Zig-zag Eyelet · ideal opening for cords and narrow ribbons · attractive decorative elements for clothing, crafts, etc. · cannot be programmed into memory

Sewing eyelets · select eyelet stitch No. 61 · position fabric under the presser foot and sew · machine stops automatically when finished · machine is automatically ready for the next eyelet

Punching eyelets · use an awl or punch to cut open the eyelet

Straight Stitch Eyelets

Stitch: Straight Stitch Eyelets No. 62 Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: cotton, polyester, or rayon Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1C

Straight Stitch Eyelet · ideal opening for cords and narrow ribbons · attractive decorative elements for clothing, crafts, etc. · cannot be programmed into memory

Sewing eyelets · select eyelet stitch No. 62 · position fabric under the presser foot and sew · machine stops automatically when finished · machine is automatically ready for the next eyelet

Punching eyelets · use an awl or punch to cut open the eyelet

TIPS

Eyelets · ideal for eyes on soft toys, dolls and puppets

Decorative eyelets · use decorative thread to introduce an attractive element when combined with other embroidery or decorative stitches

Darning, mending 31

Elastic Edges

Stitch: Zig-zag stitch No. 2 Stitch width: approximately 5mm Stitch length: 1mm – 1.5mm Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: cotton or polyester Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1C

Elastic edges · use on knit garments to re-form out-of-shape edges

Sewing · guide double length of shirring elastic along the edge of the fabric, stretching the elastic slightly · oversew the elastic with a zig-zag stitch · do not sew through the elastic, only over it · adjust elastic after sewing is complete to regain the correct shape and size

TIP

Prevent fabrics stretching · To prevent the fabric from stretching as it is sewn, reduce the presser foot pressure to suit the fabric

32 Darning, mending

Reinforced edges on woven fabrics

Stitch: Honeycomb stitch No. 8 or Running stitch No. 4 Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: lightweight darning thread Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1C

Reinforcing edges · good for work clothes, table linen, towels, etc. · use a cord to match the color of the fabric

Suitable cords · perle yarn · fine crochet yarn · strong hand-sewing thread · gimp

Sewing · oversew edges with Honeycomb or Running stitch · oversew a cord along the edge for added reinforcement · if necessary, sew a second row somewhat in from the edge

Patches on knits and jersey

Stitch: Jersey stitch No. 14 Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: lightweight darning thread Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1C

Covering worn or damaged areas · particularly suitable for stretchy fabrics, lingerie

Preparation · do not cut damaged area · round off the edges of the patch to retain flexibility · pin and baste to right side

Sewing · place patch over worn area · sew over edge · sew a second row inside the first if desired) · cut away damaged area

TIPS

Knits · use a new needle to prevent damage of the fabric loops

Sewing stretch fabrics · if necessary use a stretch needle (130/705 H-S); point slides easily between the fibers

Prevent stretching · to prevent the stretching of the seam while being sewn, reduce the presser foot pressure to suit the fabric

Darning 33

Automatic darning

Stitch: Simple Darning Program No. 22 or Reinforced Darning Program No. 23 Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: lightweight darning thread Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Automatic buttonhole foot No. 3A Reverse pattern foot No. 1C

Quick darning of holes or worn areas

Preparation · stretch fine fabrics into a darning or embroidery ring to prevent distortion

Simple Darning Program No. 22 · replaces threads along the lengthwise grain in all fabrics · use Reverse pattern foot No. 1C · touch the foot 3 on the toolbar across the lower part of the screen · sew the first row · press and release the quick reverse button at the desired length; this programs the first length · sew the second row · press and release the quick reverse button; this programs the second length · continue sewing; the machine stops automatically

Corrections · if the darning becomes distorted, correct with the Balance function (see page 50–51)

Reinforced Darning Program No. 23 · replaces threads along the lengthwise and crosswise grains in all fabrics · use Automatic buttonhole foot No. 3A · insert the needle in the top left of the worn area · sew the first vertical row · press and release the quick reverse button at the desired length; his programs the length needed · continue sewing; the machine stops automatically when finished

Large areas · reposition the work under the foot to continue covering the worn area · begin sewing;the program will repeat (length is saved)

TIPS

Reinforced darning · place a piece of gauze under the worn area before darning

Large areas · increase the darning area lengthwise and crosswise by moving the work under the foot

34 Darning

Manual darning

Stitch: Straight stitch No. 1 Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: lightweight darning thread Feed-dog: down (darning position) Presser foot: Darning foot No. 9 (optional accessory)

Darning holes or worn areas · replaces threads with the lengthwise and the crosswise grains in all fabrics

Preparation · stretch fabric into darning ring (optional accessory) to prevent distortion · use of the slide-on sewing table is recommended

Sewing · move the darning ring smoothly and without using pressure · work from left to right

Stitch over the hole · sew the first rows to cover the hole (not too close) · turn work by a quarter turn – 90°

Cover the first rows · sew over the first rows – not too close for a soft finish · turn work by a half turn – 180°

Complete darning · loosely and in same direction as 2nd rows

Method for tubular items · first step in a horizontal direction · second and third steps in lengthways direction

When you have mastered the technique · work the rows in irregular lengths so that the turns are “lost” in the fabric

Stitching hints · move the hoop as if writing the letters “L” or “M” · when changing direction, move in curves, avoiding points · this prevents holes and thread breakage · do not sew in circles; these do not mimic the fabric threads

TIPS

Thread breaks · if thread breakage is a problem, it could be that the ring is not being moved smoothly

Poor stitch formation · if the thread is lying on top of the fabric, the ring is being moved too quickly · if there are knots on the underside of the fabric, the ring is being moved too slowly

Decorative stitches 35

Decorative stitches

Stitch: 9 mm wide decorative stitches Needle: embroidery needle in a size suitable for the fabric selected Thread: cotton or rayon embroidery Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Reverse Pattern foot No. 1C or Open Embroidery Foot No. 20C Embroidery foot No. 6 (optional)

Decorative stitches · for all fabrics · for embellishing and decorative work

Stitch selection · press the external menu button for Decorative stitches · select the desired stitch group from the screen (groups 100, 300, 400, 600, 700, and 900 are 9mm stitches) · select the desired stitch

Screen · selected stitch is highlighted · suggests foot 1; use foot No. 6 or No. 20C for heavy, compact stitches · basic settings (length and width) are automatically set, but can be altered

A B C A decorative stitch with preset width and length B decorative stitch with reduced width C decorative stitch with shortened length

Altering the stitch width · alter the look of the stitch by adjusting the width · turn the external stitch width knob to the right to widen the stitch · turn the external stitch width knob to the left to narrow the stitch · both the basic settings and the altered settings will be visible on the screen

Altering the stitch length · alter the look of the stitch by adjusting the length · turn the external stitch width knob to the right to lengthen the stitch · turn the external stitch width knob to the left to shorten the stitch · both the basic settings and the altered settings will be visible on the screen

TIP Altering the basic settings · the stitch can be adjusted as desired · adjust the size of the stitch to suit the size of the item being sewn, e.g, reduce the width for small items such as doll clothes

Cross stitches

Stitch: Cross stitches Nos. 301–309, 314 or Cross stitch No. 310
Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected
Thread: cotton or rayon embroidery
Feed-dog: up (sewing position)
Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1C or Embroidery Foot No. 20C

Cross stitch

• a useful and attractive addition to sewing projects of all types
• combine cross stitches with other decorative stitches

Sewing

• sew and combine stitches 301–309, 314 in the same manner as all other decorative stitches

Large cross stitch no. 310 (1st section)

• sew the first section
• machine stops automatically in the center
• the machine stops with the needle down in the fabric even if the needle stop indicates “up”

Large cross stitch no. 310 (2nd section)

• sew the second section
• the machine stops automatically at the end and is ready to begin the next cross stitch

TIPS

Cross stitch with embroidery thread

• stitches appear fuller

Cross stitch on a single layer

• always use stabilizer
• remove stabilizer after sewing

Hand-look quilt stitch

Hand-look quilt stitch

• for all fabrics and all types of work where the look of a hand sewn running stitch is desired

Sewing test

• the bobbin thread comes through to the top of the fabric
• 1 stitch is visible (cotton thread), 1 stitch is invisible (monofilament thread) to give a hand stitched effect

Upper thread tension

• the upper thread tension is set automatically
• adjust if necessary to suit the fabric

Balance

• adjust if necessary

Sewing

• can be sewn with any needle position

TIPS

Perfect corners

• activate Pattern end when approaching corner; when the machine stops automatically, sink the needle (if needed) and pivot the work

Monofilament hints

• if the monofilament thread breaks, sew more slowly and/or reduce the upper thread tension slightly

38 Quilt stitches

Decorative quilt stitches

\begin{tabular}{ll} Stitch: & Quilt stitches Nos. 326–338, 351 \ Needle: & size and type suitable for the fabric selected \ Thread: & cotton or rayon embroidery \ Feed-dog: & up (sewing position) \ Presser foot: & Reverse pattern foot No. 1C \ \end{tabular}

Straight stitch No. 326 · a short straight stitch (2mm) · particularly suitable for piecing patchwork

Quilt stitches · suitable for all fabrics and quilting · especially applicable for crazy quilting

Balance · adjust if necessary

Sewing · select quilt stitch and sew · all quilt stitches can be combined and programmed in memory

TIP Perfect corners · activate Pattern End; when the machine stops automatically, sink the needle (if needed) and pivot the work

Freehand quilting

Stitch: Straight stitch No. 1
Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected
Thread: cotton or monofilament
Feed-dog: down (darning position)
Presser foot: Darning foot No. 9 or Quilting foot No. 29C

Freehand quilting

• for all freehand quilt work

Preparation

• pin and baste top layer, batting, and lining together
• attach the slide-on sewing table or place machine in a cabinet

Holding the work

• start in the center and work out toward the edges
• hold the fabric with both hands like an embroidery frame

Quilting a design

• turn the work using smooth, round movements to form the design of your choice (either freehand or following a template)

Stipple quilting

• this technique covers the entire surface of the fabric
• the lines of stitching are rounded without any sharp corners; they never cross or touch one another

TIPS

Freehand quilting and darning

• both techniques are based on the same free-motion principles

Thread breaks

• usually as a result of sudden or jerky movements – move the fabric smoothly and at an even pace

Poor stitch formation

• if the thread forms loops, the work is being moved too quickly
• if knots are forming on the underside, the work is being moved too slowly

Monofilament hints

• if the monofilament thread breaks, sew more slowly and/or reduce the upper thread tension slightly

40 Combining decorative stitches with functions

Using decorative stitches with functions

Stitch: 9 mm decorative stitches Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: cotton or rayon embroidery Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1C or Open Embroidery foot No. 20C or Embroidery Foot No. 6 (optional accessory)

Combining basic settings and functions · you can achieve some exciting effects by combining basic settings with various functions

Horizontal mirror image Vertical mirror image

Pattern end 1–9 Half pattern

Balance Long stitch function

Double needle limitation 2–8 mm Wing needle limitation

Continuous reverse sewing Pattern extend 2–5x

Balance

· use balance to obtain variations on stitches · the stitch will be stretched open or compressed, depending on the number of balance steps · for additional information on the balance function, see pages 50–51

Method

· select stitch · select function · several functions can be activated for one stitch

Deleting functions

· press the external clr button · delete special functions individually by touching the appropriate symbol

TIPS

Variations with basic settings and functions · before starting a new combination, clear all functions previously used

Decorative stitches on single layer fabric · always use stabilizer · remove stabilizer after sewing

Activate needle stop down when sewing long rows of stitches · needle stays in fabric when stopping to reposition work

Single pattern · the machine stops automatically at the end of each individual stitch pattern

Practical and decorative stitches in memory 41

Practical and decorative stitches in memory

· the memory capacity is 1023 individual stitch patterns · the memory has 255 banks · each bank can be sub-divided as desired · most practical and decorative stitches as well as letters and numbers can be combined, programmed, and saved in memory · exceptions: buttonholes · all saved stitches remain in the memory when the machine is turned off · all saved stitches and combinations can be recalled at any time

Programming practical and decorative stitches · open the memory by pressing the external mem button · touch mem 1 to access the memory storage screen · select an empty memory bank · touch OK to return to the previous screen · select the desired stitch · the stitch appears in the mem field · select the next desired stitch · continue in this manner until the desired combination of stitches has been programmed · to save, touch store

Example of programmed stitch combination · select a memory bank following the directions above · touch stitch 407 one time · touch stitch 102 one time · touch stitch 711 one time · begin stitching; the stitches will continuously alternate · to save, touch store

Examples of programmed stitch with function · select a memory bank following the directions above · touch stitch 413 one time · activate vertical mirror image · touch stitch 413 one time · begin stitching; the stitches will continuously alternate facing up and down · to save, touch store

· select a memory bank following the directions above · touch stitch 104 one time · activate vertical mirror image · touch stitch 104 one time · begin stitching; the stitches will continuously alternate facing up and down · to save, touch store

42 Practical and decorative stitches in memory

Stitch combination as single repeat · select a memory bank following the directions on the previous page · touch stitch 409 one time · touch stitch 616 two times · on the toolbar, activate Pattern end 2 · stitch; the machine stops automatically at the end of the second combination of stitches · to save, touch store

Stitch combination with mirror image as single repeat · select a memory bank following the directions on the previous page · touch stitch 109 one time · touch stitch 414 one time · activate horizontal mirror image · touch stitch 414 one time · activate horizontal mirror image · touch stitch 109 one time · on the toolbar, activate Pattern end 1 · stitch; the machine stops automatically at the end of the combination of stitches · to save, touch store

TIPS Decorative stitch combination with embroidery thread · stitches appear fuller

Stitch combinations on single layer of fabric · always use a stabilizer · remove stabilizer after sewing

Letters and numbers in memory

• the memory capacity is 1023 individual stitch patterns
• the memory has 255 banks
• each bank can be sub-divided as desired
• most practical and decorative stitches as well as letters and numbers can be combined, programmed, and saved in memory
• exceptions: buttonholes
• all saved stitches remain in the memory when the machine is turned off
• all saved stitches and combinations can be recalled at any time

Programming letters and numbers

• open the memory by pressing the external mem button
• touch mem 1 to access the memory storage screen
• select an empty memory bank
• touch OK to return to the previous screen
• select the desired letter
• the letter appears in the mem field
• select the next desired letter
• continue in this manner until the desired combination of letters has been programmed
• to save, touch store

Examples of programming letters

• select a memory bank following the directions above
• press the external alphabet button
• touch the block letter alphabet
• touch the appropriate letters to spell "BERNINA"
• on the toolbar, activate Pattern end 1
• begin stitching; the letters will continuously stitch, automatically stopping after the "A"
• to save, touch store
• for double length letters, select Pattern the Extend 2x function before programming

Examples of programming numbers

• follow the directions above for programming letters, selecting numbers instead
• begin stitching; the numbers will continuously stitch, automatically stopping after the last one
• to save, touch store

Examples of programming small monograms

• select a memory bank following the directions above
• press the external alphabet button
• touch the 9mm script alphabet
• touch the desired letters
• on the toolbar, activate Pattern end 1
• begin stitching; the letters will continuously stitch, automatically stopping after the last one
• to save, touch store

Securing

• select the Securing function
• the first and last letters will be secured

TIPS

Activate Patterrn end after programming

• the machine will sew the program once and stop

Embroidering letters on a single layer of fabric

• always use stabilizer
• remove stabilizer after sewing

44 16 directions

16 direction sewing

Stitch: Straight stitch No.1 or Zig-zag No. 2 Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: cotton or polyester Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Sideways motion foot No. 40

16 direction sewing · for creative embellishment · for quilting without turning the fabric

External button · press the external Quilt/Directional button · touch the 16 direction symbol

Stitch length and width Straight stitch: · the stitch length is generally 3 mm in all directions Zig-zag: · the stitch length is programmed to satin stitch · it can be freely altered between 0mm and 1mm · the stitch width can be freely altered between 0mm and 9mm

Thread tension · the tension is automatically set when the 16 direction program is selected

Screen · Straight Stitch and Zig-zag appear · a "compass" is in the center of the screen · a presser foot is in the center of the compass · the points indicate the 16 directions · one touch to right or left = one step in the chosen direction · continuous pressing = faster direction change · a long line indicates the direction selected

Sewing · select the stitch · adjust stitch width or length if required · determine the direction on the compass · the machine sews the selected stitch in the direction chosen

Change direction · stop the machine after sewing the desired distance · select new direction on the compass · sew

TIPS

16 directional sewing with embroidery thread · stitches appear fuller

16 directional sewing on a single layer of fabric · always use stabilizers a backing · remove stabilizer after sewing

Embellishing with 16 direction sewing · can be programmed in memory in combination with other stitches for truly multi-directional embellishment possibilities

16 directions 45

Connecting stitch patterns

Stitch: Straight stitch No. 39 Function: Long stitch Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: cotton, polyester, or rayon Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Sideways motion foot No. 40

16 direction straight stitch as connecting threads · long connecting threads between individual sideways motion stitches or monogram letters · connecting threads may be removed after sewing

Stitch length · the length of the connecting stitches with the Long stitch function is 9 mm (in all directions) · it cannot be altered

Sewing · select Straight Stitch · select the desired direction on the compass · activate the Long stitch function · the machine sews long connecting stitches in the direction chosen · clear the Long stitch function

TIP All-over embellishment · use this technique to embellish fabric in an all-over design

46 4 directions

4 direction sewing

Stitch: Stitches No. 41–48
Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected
Thread: cotton or polyester
Feed-dog: up (sewing position)
Presser foot: Sideways motion foot no. 40

Automatic sewing in 4 directions

• sew in 4 directions without turning the fabric
• for adding patches to trousers, sleeves, and other tubular items

Preparation for patches

• cut the patch slightly larger than the hole in the garment
• position the patch on the fabric over the hole

Technique for decorative squares and patches

• press external direction button
• touch the 4 direction symbol
• select the desired stitch
• align the edge of the presser foot with one edge of the patch and sew one side
• change direction with the right or left arrow
• sew the second side, etc.
• the best method for sewing squares and rectangles is from top to bottom and from right to left (clockwise)
• trim the surplus fabric close to the stitches
• trim worn area behind the patch

Using the Pattern end function

• use the Pattern end function 1–9 for quicker and more efficient work
• program the number of stitches into memory for one side
• select Pattern end 1
• sew; the machine stops automatically
• change directions
• sew; the machine stops automatically
• continue in this manner for all four sides

TIP

Patching fabrics that ravel

• finish the edges of the patch
• stitch just inside the edge of the patch
• do not trim the patch

Sideways motion stitches – Outline Designs

Stitch: Sideways motion stitches/monograms
Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected
Thread: cotton or rayon embroidery
Feed-dog: up (sewing position)
Presser foot: Sideways motion foot No. 40

Sideways motion stitches

• outline designs, i.e. only the outer contours of the motif are sewn
• monograms
• sideways motion stitches are indicated on the screen with crossed arrows ↔

Fabric feed

• the fabric is moved forward and backward in the usual manner
• the fabric is also moved from side to side

Tension

• the tension is set automatically when the stitch is selected

Size

• the size of sideways motion stitches cannot be altered
• monograms can be sewn in 3 different sizes (30/20/15 mm)

Stitch length and width

• the length and width of sideways motion stitches cannot be altered

Balance

• the appearance of the stitches can be affected by the fabric, stabilizer and thread quality
• balance can be used to adapt the stitch to the chosen fabric
• for additional information, see pages 50–51

Sideways motion stitches and functions

• sideways motion stitches can be combined with all the functions which appear on the screen, e.g. mirror image

Test sewing

• it is always worth test sewing with the materials you intend to use – fabric, stabilizer and thread!

Template

• templates help you to position the motifs
• all sideways motion stitches are in their original size on the template
  (Exception: medium and small monograms)
• a circle shows the starting point
• a cross shows the end point
• there is a hole at the beginning and end to simplify marking
• the direction is indicated by a presser foot symbol and solid guide lines
• the presser foot must always run parallel to the lines
• the templates are provided with the owners manual of the machine

No templates for medium and small monograms

• there is no template for these as they start and finish in a straight line
• they are sewn as they are written

48 Sideways motion stitches

External button · press the external Decorative stitch button · press the external Alphabet button for monograms

Screen · select any of the motifs marked with crossed arrows ⇔ · or select monograms

Sewing · using the template mark the beginning of the stitch on the fabric · note the sewing direction · insert the needle into the fabric at the beginning mark · position the fabric so that the solid guide lines on the template lines are parallel to the presser foot · stitch; the machine sews the selected stitch and stops automatically at the ending point

TIPS

Sewing sideways motion stitches on a large piece of fabric · make sure that the fabric can move freely as the sideways motion design is stitched · if the feed is inhibited, the motif may not be stitched properly

Sewing sideways motion stitches · use a light touch, a finger tip feeding in guiding the fabric · hold the fabric so that it is kept in vertical alignment · avoid pulling the fabric · draw parallel lines on the fabric with a fabric pen or tailor's chalk to aid in guiding

Sideways motion stitches and sewing table · the slide-on sewing table is very useful when sewing these stitches

Sideways motion stitches on a single layer of fabric · always use a stabilizer · remove stabilizer after sewing

Sideways motion stitches in memory

Sideways motion stitches in memory · all sideways motion stitches and monograms can be programmed and saved in memory; however, they cannot be sewn in sequence like decorative stitches · the beginning and ending points of sideways motion stitches vary considerably and are sometimes within the stitch itself

Combining sideways motion stitches and monograms in memory · sideways motion stitches and monograms can be combined with 16 direction stitching and saved in memory

Open memory/program letter · press external mem button · select stitch · the stitch appears in memory in the usual manner

Determine spacing with the template · position the template with the selected letters, e.g. F and G · the sewing directions must correspond · place the presser foot symbol of the 16 direction template on the end point of the first letter · the sewing directions must correspond · note the direction to the starting point of the next letter · note the number of repeats (each 9 mm) · program and save the direction and repeats in memory · for more information, see pages 44-45

Program the second letter · program the second letter · program Pattern end function · sew

Medium/small monograms · medium and small monograms always start and finish on a straight line · they are sewn as they are written

TIPS

Sideways motion stitches and other stitches · create delightful designs by combining individual sideways motion stitches with other stitches

Sideways motion stitches and sewing table · the slide-on sewing table is a real help when sewing these stitches

50 Balance

Balance

All stitches are tested and adjusted before the machine leaves the factory; however, shipping and transporting can affect the setting of the balance function.

Different fabrics, threads and stabilizers can distort the stitch patterns so that they are too long (do not close properly) or too short (have a condensed appearance).

The electronic balance function can be used to correct these distortions so that stitches can be adjusted for a perfect formation on the fabric of your choice.

Stitch: all stitches Needle: all types, 70–110 Thread: all threads Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: as indicated on screen

Test sewing · it is always a good idea to test sew with the materials you intend to use – fabric, stabilizer and threads

Open balance · touch the arrow on the functions toolbar · scroll the functions · touch "b"

Balance and practical stitches/9 mm decorative stitches

· soft fabrics such as jerseys and tricot have a tendency to stretch under the presser foot · stitches such as Honeycomb may therefore not close correctly · this can be corrected with the balance function

Balance for practical stitches · the stitch as it should look, e.g. Honeycomb, is in the center of the screen · possible stitch distortions are shown to the right and left of the correct stitch · the arrows at the bottom of the screen show in which direction the stitch should be corrected Note: the honeycomb stitch graphic will be seen on-screen for all practical stitches

Corrections · touch the appropriate arrow to balance the stitch · the number of steps is shown above the arrow · 2–5 steps are normally sufficient to balance practical stitches (max. 50 steps)

Balance for 9 mm decorative stitches · the method is the same as for practical stitches Note: the satin stitched oval graphic will be seen on-screen for all decorative stitches

overlapping balanced open stitch stitch stitch

Balance for sideways motion stitches

Fabric, thread and stabilizer all play an important role in the appearance of sideways motion stitches. Because of this, corrections are sometimes necessary.

Balance

• the stitch as it should look appears in the center of the left half of the screen Note: the ivy motif will be seen on-screen for all sideways motion motifs
• two possible distortions are shown to the right and left
• if the sewn sample shows a similar distortion to the one on the right, correct with the appropriate arrow
• if the sewn sample shows a similar distortion to the one on the left, correct with appropriate arrow

Correcting vertically

• touch the appropriate arrow to alter the balance
• the steps are shown above the arrow
• the number of steps required depend heavily on the type of fabric (test sew)
• if more than 10 balance steps are necessary, the stitch will automatically be made smaller

Correcting horizontally

• horizontal balance is shown on the right half of the screen
• it is possible that the stitch stretches sideways after balancing vertically; the center line will appear distorted
• it can balanced in the opposite direction (max. 20 steps)

TIPS

Correcting practical stitches and 9 mm decorative stitches

• 2–5 balance steps are normally sufficient to balance the stitch
• adjust slowly a step at a time so that you can control the balance

Correcting sideways motion stitches

• always balance vertically first and then horizontally
• this is the quickest way to obtain a perfectly balanced stitch
• 5–10 steps are normally sufficient to balance the stitch

52 Index

Index

16 directional sewing 44, 45 4 directional sewing 46

A Auto buttonholes 25 Auto round and keyhole buttonholes 26 Automatic darning program 33

B Balance and practical/ decorative stitches 50 Balance and sideways motion stitches 51 Bar tack program 20 Basting 16 Blind hem 17 Button sewing-on program 29 Buttonholes 21–28

C Contents 1 Cross stitches 36

D Darning programs 33 Darning, mending 31–34 Decorative squares/patches 46 Decorative stitches in memory 41–43 Decorative stitches with functions 40 Decorative stitches 35 Directional stitching 44 Double overlock seam 9

E Edge stitching 4 Edges of knits with shirring elastic 31 Elastic, cord – sewing on 18, 19 Eyelets with straight stitch 30 Eyelets with zig-zag 30

F Flat joining seam 10 Freehand quilting 39

G Gathering stitch – sewing on elastic/cord 18

H Honeycomb stitch edges 12

J Jersey overlock seam 9

L Letters and numbers in memory 43 Long Stitch 15

M Manual buttonholes 28 Manual darning 34 Memory – letters and numbers 43 Memory – practical and decorative stitches 41–43 Memory – sideways motion stitches 49

N Numbers and letters in memory 43

O Outline designs 47, 48

P Patches – sewing in 4 directions 46 Patches on knits and jersey 32 Personal (altered) memory 6 Practical stitch hems 11 Practical stitch seams 7–10 Practical stitches in memory 41–43

Q Quilt stitches 38 Quilt/hand look stitches 37

R Reinforced darning program 33 Reinforcing edges on woven fabrics 32 Ribbing with overlock 13

S Securing program (straight stitch) 3 Sewing in 16 directions 44, 45 Sewing in 4 directions 46 Sewing knits 12, 13 Sideways motion stitches in memory 49 Sideways motion stitches 47, 48 Stitch counter buttonholes 27 Straight stitch buttonholes 24 Straight stitch with securing program 3 Straight stitch 2 Stretch overlock seam 10 Stretch/Super stretch seam 8

T Triple straight stitch seam 8

U Universal stitch – sewing on elastic 18

V Vari-overlock – ribbing 13 Vari-overlock seam 9

Z Zig-zag stitch 5 Zippers 14