Bernina 180E owner's manual: Important facts about sewing machine needles

Important facts about sewing machine needles

Sewing machine, needle and thread Your Bernina uses needle system 130/705H.

Needle and thread

The most commonly sold needles are nos. 70–120. The finer the needle, the lower the number. The table shows you which needle is suitable for which threads. The needle size select must correspond to the thread size.

\begin{tabular}{|l|c|c|c|c|c|} \hline Needle/thread table & 70 & 80 & 90 & 100 & 110–120 \ \hline Darning thread & \circ & \circ & & & \ \hline Embroidery thread & & \circ & & & \ \hline Mercerized cotton thread & & \circ & \circ & & \ \hline Synthetic thread & & \circ & \circ & & \ \hline Thick threads, synthetic merc. thread & & & \circ & \circ & \ \hline Buttonhole thread for decorative seams (cordonnet) & & & & \circ & \circ \ \hline \end{tabular}

Correct needle/thread combination When sewing, the thread runs in the long groove on the needle.

Unsatisfactory needle/thread combination If the needle is too fine the groove on the front cannot accommodate the thread and faulty stitching occurs.

Needle and fabric/Condition of needle The needle must be in perfect condition. Problems can occur with damaged needles.

bent needle blunt needle burred needle

72 Needle, thread, fabric feed

Important facts about sewing machine needles

Special materials are easier to sew if the appropriate needle is used. Special needles are available at your BERNINA dealer.

Needle, thread, fabric feed 73

Feed-dog and fabric feed

Feed-dog and stitch length

With each stitch the feed-dog moves forward by one step. The length of this step is determined by the stitch length selected. With an extremely short stitch length, the steps are short. The fabric moves under the foot quite slowly, even at full sewing speed. Buttonholes, satin stitch and some decorative stitches are sewn with a very short stitch length.

Important

Let the fabric feed evenly!

Pulling or pushing will result in gaps.

Holding back will result in thread build-up.

Height Compensation Tool

The feed-dog can work normally when the foot is level.

If the foot is at an angle, e.g. when sewing over thick to thin or vice-versa, the feed-dog cannot grip and feed the fabric.

To solve this problem, place one, two or three compensating plates as required behind the needle under the presser foot.

To correct the height in front of the foot, place one or more plates to the right of the foot next to the needle. Sew until the foot is level again and remove the plates.

Feed-dog and sewing corners

The gap between the two rows of teeth is relatively large due to the width of the stitch plate hole.

When sewing corners only a small section of the fabric is actually on the feed-dog so that it cannot grip the fabric well.

Correct this by placing one or more compensating plates as close as possible to the edge of the fabric.

74 Cleaning, Maintenance, Troubleshooting

Cleaning

If the machine is stored in a cold room, it should be brought to a warm room about 1 hour before use.

Cleaning Periodically remove thread lint and remnants which collect under the stitch plate. · turn power switch to "0" · remove presser foot and needle · open the free-arm cover · press the stitch plate down at the back right corner · lift and remove it · clean the area with the brush · replace the stitch plate

Cleaning the screen · wipe with a damp cloth

Cleaning the hook · power switch to "0" · remove the bobbin case · clean the hook using the brush provided or a cotton swab. The use of any sharp instrument could damage the hook. · insert the bobbin case

Cleaning the machine · wipe with a damp cloth · if very soiled, wipe with a solution of water and a few drops of liquid soap

Lubricating · squeeze 2–3 drops of oil into the hook race · run the machine for a short time without thread to prevent oil soiling your work

Important! Never use oil, alcohol or solvents of any kind on any part of the machine!

Replacing the bulb

Front cover · turn power switch to "0" · loosen the screw

Warning: Let the bulb cool down before replacing!

Change the bulb · remove the left side cover · remove the bulb · insert the new bulb · replace cover and tighten screw

Note: Use bulb type 12V 5W W2.1 x 9.5d

For models with new sewing-light see page 75

Please refer to the safety instructions!

Trouble shooting

In most cases you will be able to identify and remedy faults by checking the following.

Check whether: · the upper and lower threads are threaded correctly · the needle is inserted as far up as possible with the flat side to the back · the needle size is correct – check the needle/thread table · the machine is clean – brush out any thread lint · the hook race is clean · any threads are trapped between the tension discs or under the bobbin case spring

Upper thread breaks

· upper thread tension is too tight · needle is not designed to be used with the chosen thread · needle has been inserted incorrectly – the flat side of the shank must be to the back · needle is bent or blunt · for additional needle information, check the Creative Consultant and the charts on pages 71–72 · poor quality, knotted or dried out thread has been used · use the correct spool disc · stitch plate or hook tip damaged – take your machine to your BERNINA® dealer

Lower thread breaks

· the lower thread tension is too tight. · the bobbin is jamming in the bobbin case. Remove and replace the bobbin. · the hole in the stitch plate has been damaged by the needle. This must be polished by an authorized BERNINA® service technician · the needle is blunt or bent.

Skipped stitches

· wrong needles used – use only 130/705H system · the needle is blunt, bent or incorrectly inserted – push completely to the top when inserting. · the needle point does not suit the fabric being sewn – if necessary, use a ball point or stretch needle for knitted fabrics and a cutting point for hard leather.

Needle breaks

· needle clamp screw loose. · fabric taken out forward instead of behind the presser foot. · when sewing over thick area, the fabric was pushed with the needle still in the fabric. · poor quality thread, unevenly wound or knotted.

Faulty stitching

· remnants of thread between the tension discs · remnants of thread under the bobbin case spring · incorrect threading. Check upper and lower threads · use the correct spool disc

Machine fails to run or runs slowly

· plug not fully inserted · power switch in off (0) position · machine has been standing in a cold room · bobbin winder engaged

Machine sews in reverse

· reverse sewing function is activated

Defective sewing-light

· Please note that it is forbidden to change the new CFL-sewing light by a unauthorized person. For Models with this new CFL-sewing light, the light can ONLY be replaced by an authorized Bernina Dealer.

76 Glossary of terms

Glossary of terms

check · to preview the contents of a memory bank clr (clear) · remove or restore settings, back to basic settings cursor · on-screen positioning marker (vertical line) · used in memory for marking deletions, insertions, etc. customized · customer-oriented, individualized, personalized Delete · Delete/clear the previous command edit · alter, modify esc (escape) · close screen/program, return to previous or start screen help · an integrated program providing brief information and help concerning functions and specific stitches memory · sewing machine program to store stitches and combinations of stitches, letters and numbers for recall at any time menu · summary of program contents, e.g. stitches, functions from which selections can be made ok · to confirm a task or selection before continuing outline · outline designs = sideways motion stitches; stitches with outer contours which are not filled in pattern · motif, stitch PC · Personal Computer PC Embroidery Software · User friendly program designed especially for our customers · PC program for use in conjunction with our embroidery module to edit, mirror image and resize existing motifs. You can also use it to create and convert your own designs into beautiful embroidery. scroll · to move the screen up or down to view Setup · sequences and settings which can be altered and adapted to suit your personal preferences smart · program which saves the stitch and all settings in use during interruptions. Toggle between two stitches. software · computer programs store · save in memory for recall at any time toolbar · a term used for on-screen groups, e.g. functions touch screen · screen which operates the machine by touch tutorial · self-help program for learning about various machine features update · load new software onto machine upgrade · load new software onto machine

Index

A Accessory box 6 Alphabets/numbers 38–39 · alter size 38 · monogram sizes 38 · programming 39 Alphabet programming functions 29

B Balance 49–50 Bobbin – winding, inserting 8 Bringing up the lower thread 10 Bulb, replacing 74 Buttonhole program functions 28 · button measurement 28 · direct length entry 28 · manual buttonhole 28 · stitch counter buttonhole 28 Buttonholes 30–38 · auto round and keyhole 31 · auto standard and stretch 30 · auto with direct length entry 32 · buttonhole corrections 34 · long-term memory 34–35 · manual 4–6 step buttonholes 35–36 · on-screen button measure 32–33 · stitch counter buttonhole 33 · straight stitch buttonholes 37 Buttonholes, applications 17 Buttonholes, opening 37 Button sew-on program 37

C Carrying case 6 Cleaning, maintenance 74 Contents 3 CPS program 68 Creative Consultant 52–53 · Fabric menu 53 · Techniques menu 53

D Details of the machine 4, 5 Directional sewing 45–47 · 16 directions 45–46 · 4 directions 46–47

E eco function 67–68 Editing functions 27–28 · balance 28 · letter size 28 · long stitch 27 · mirror image 27, 28 · monogram size 28 · motor speed 27 · pattern extend 28 · securing end of stitch 27 · sub-division 27 · tension 27 Embroidery cards 69–70 Embroidery module 69 External stitch buttons 21–22 · alphabet button 22 · buttonhole button 21 · decorative stitch button 21 · external connections 22 · practical stitch button 21 · quilt/directional button 22 · Setup 22 External function buttons 22–23 · clr button 22 · eco button 23 · F (Favorite Function) button 23 · Help 22 · mem button 22 · Needle position 23 · Needle stop adjustment 22 · Single pattern 23 · Quick reverse button 23 · Setup button 23 · Smart button 23 · TTC button 23 Eyelet program 38

F F (Favorite function) button 59–60 Fabric feed, thread, needle 71–73 Feed dogs and fabric feed 73 Feed dogs 11 FHS Free Hand System 7 Foot control 7 Functions, memory 27, 42 · check 27 · delete 27 · edit memory 27 · select memory 27 · store 27 · scroll left 27 · scroll right 27 Functions in Setup 26, 55 Functions, on-screen selection 20

G General functions 24 · esc 24 · OK 24 · Scroll down 24 · Scroll up 24 Glossary of terms 76

H Help program 50–51

L Letters/numbers 38–39

78 Index

M Maintenance, cleaning 74 Memory 39–44 · Corrections in memory 42–43 · Deleting memory 44 · Functions 42 · Open memory 40 · Open individual memory 43 · Memory capacity 44 · Programming stitches 40 · Programming stitches by number 41 · Programming with functions 41–42 · Save/leave memory 43 · Sub-division 44 · View memory contents 42 Messages, on-screen 29

N Needle threader 10 Needle, changing 9 Needle, thread, fabric feed 71–73 Needle position, altering 19 Needle stop 20

O Outline designs 47–48

P PC Embroidery Software 70 Power cable 7 Power switch 7 Practical stitches, applications 16–17 Presser feet 15 · Reverse pattern foot No.1C 15 · Overlock foot No.2A 15 · Buttonhole foot No.3C 15 · Auto buttonhole foot No.3C 15 · Zipper foot No.4 15 · Blind stitch foot No.5 15 · Open embroidery foot No.20C 15 · Sideways motion foot No.40C 15 Presser feet, special 15, 68 Presser foot pressure 11 Presser foot, changing 9 Presser foot indicator 20 Programming letters/numbers 39

Q Quilt stitches/directional sewing 45–47 Quilt stitches 45

S Safety instructions 1 Screen 18 Selecting on-screen functions 19 Setup 55–67 · Beeper 60–61 · Embroidery hoop adjustment 66 · F (Favorite function) button 59–60 · Functions, programming 59–60 · Functions in Setup 55 · Motor speed 61 · Needle position 60 · Personal program 56–58 · Return to basic settings 63 · Leave Setup 67 · Screen Calibration 65 · Screen Contrast 67 · Service 64 · Sewing light 64 · Start screen 63 · Stitch width, length 60 · Thread tension 62 · Version Information 64–65 Sewing machine needles 71–72 Sewing table 7 Sideways motion stitches 47–48 Smart function 54 Special accessories 68–70 Standard accessories 6 Stitch width/length, altering 19 Stitch plate 11 Stitch selection, on-screen 19–21 Stitch selection by number 20–21 Stitch summary 12–14 · alphabets 13–14 · buttonholes 12 · decorative stitches 12–13 · practical stitches 12 · quilt stitches 13 · 16 directional sewing 13 · 4 directional sewing 13 Supplementary spool pin 9

T Thread cutter 11 Thread, needle, fabric feed 71–73 Thread tension, altering 27, 51, 62 Threading, upper 10 Touch screen functions 24–26 · Balance 26 · Clear All 26 · Continuous reverse sewing 25 · Double needle limitation 25 · Hemstitch (wing) needle 26 · Half pattern 25 · Horizontal mirror image 25 · Long stitch 24 · Motor speed 25 · Pattern begin 24 · Pattern end 25 · Pattern extension 25 · Scroll 25 · Securing 24 · Stitch selection by number 25 · Tension 26 · Vertical mirror image 25 Touch screen selection 18–22 Troubleshooting 75 Tension/Tutorial/Creative Consultant 51–53

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Sewing Manual

artista 180

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Contents 1

2–5 Straight stitch, Zig-zag 6 Altered memory 7–11 Practical stitch seams 12, 13 Sewing knits 14 Zippers 15 Long stitch function 16 Basting stitch 17 Blind hem 18, 19 Elastic, cord 20 Bartack program 21–28 Buttonholes 29 Button sew-on program 30 Eyelets 31–34 Mending/darning 35 Decorative stitches 36 Cross stitches 37–39 Quilt stitches 40 Decorative stitches combined with functions 41–43 Practical and decorative stitches in memory 44, 45 16 direction stitching 46 4 direction stitching 47–49 Sideways motions stitches (outline motifs) 50, 51 Balance 52 Index

Straight stitch

Stitch: Straight Stitch No. 1
Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected
Thread: cotton or polyester
Feed-dog: up (sewing position)
Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1C

Straight stitch

• the machine is ready to sew as soon as it is turned on
• after the welcome screen (3 seconds), the machine automatically goes to the practical stitch screen with the pre-selected Straight Stitch highlighted

Screen

• suggests using reverse pattern presser foot #1
• basic settings (length and width) for Straight Stitch are preset at 2.25mm (length) and 0mm (width)
• basic settings as well as altered settings are always visible on the screen

A straight stitch with length of 2.25mm preset length
B straight stitch with altered stitch length
C straight stitch with altered needle positions

Alter the stitch length

• the stitch length can be altered while sewing
• turn the external stitch length knob to the right to lengthen
• turn the external stitch length knob to the left to shorten

Change the needle position

• push the external needle position buttons to change the needle position so stitching can be placed exactly where it is desired
• each push of the button moves the needle one position in the direction of the symbol
  • < five positions to the left

  • five positions to the right

• total of 11 positions, including center
• excellent for edgestitching, topstitching, and making tucks

Securing with Quick Reverse

• press the quick reverse button and the machine sews in reverse
• release the button and the machine sews forward

TIPS

Adjust the stitch length to suit the fabric:

• e.g. use a longer stitch length (approximately 3 mm–4 mm) with denim, shorter length (2 mm–2.5 mm) with batiste

Adjust the stitch length to suit the thread:

• e.g. use a longer stitch length (approximately 3 mm–5 mm) when sewing with cordonnet thread for top stitching

Activate needle stop down

• prevents the fabric slipping when you stop to adjust it

Straight stitch 3

Securing stitch

Stitch: Securing stitch No. 5 Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: cotton or polyester Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1C

Securing program · for all fabrics · secures beginning and end of seam · reverse stitching is exactly on top of the seam, preventing puckers

Stitch selection · touch stitch No. 5 · quick reverse symbol will appear on-screen as a reminder to use it when ending the seam

Screen · suggests using reverse pattern presser foot No. 1 · basic settings (length and width) for Straight Stitch are preset at 2.5mm (length) and 0mm (width)

Beginning the seam · machine secures the seam automatically (4 stitches forward, 4 stitches reverse) · machine continues straight stitching

Ending the seam · when coming to the end of the seam, press and release the quick reverse button above the needle · machine will secure the seam automatically (4 stitches forward, 4 stitches reverse) · machine stops automatically when securing is complete

TIP Seaming · quick and easy securing at beginning and end of seam

Edge stitching

Stitch: Straight Stitch No. 1
Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected
Thread: cotton, polyester, or cordonnet (topstitching)
Feed-dog: up (sewing position)
Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1C or Blindstitch Foot No. 5 or Edgestitch Foot No.10/10C (optional accessory)

Narrow edge stitching

Needle position

• left for outer edge
• right for inner edge

Presser foot

• Blindstitch foot No. 5

Outer edge

• place finished or folded edge of fabric against the guide of the foot
• select needle position at desired distance from the edge

Hem edges

• place edge of fold (inside upper edge of hem) against the guide on the foot
• select a needle position that places the stitching along the upper edge of the folded hem
  Foot No. 5 – use any left or far right needle position
  Foot No. 10 – use any left or right needle position

Wide edge stitching

Needle position

• any needle position can be used for this stitching
• different needle positions will place the stitching at various distances from the edge of the fabric

Presser foot

• reverse pattern foot No. 1C

Guiding the fabric

Presser foot as a guide:

• align the edge of the presser foot with the finished or folded edge of the fabric

Stitch plate as a guide:

• guide the folded edge along the markings on the stitch plate for stitching 1cm–3cm from the edge

Quilting/Seam guide as a guide:

• insert the quilting/seam guide bar into the hole on the back of the presser foot shank
• adjust as desired, measuring from the needle
• tighten the screw
• guide the finished or folded edge of the fabric along the quilting/seam guide
• to sew parallel lines, guide the quilting/seam guide bar along a previously sewn line of stitches

TIP

Edge stitching with quilting/seam guide

• eliminates tedious marking when sewing parallel lines or grids

Zig-zag 5

Zig-zag stitch

Stitch: Zig-zag No. 2 Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: cotton or polyester Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1C

Zig-zag applications · for all fabric types · for finishing raw edges · for decorative work

Stitch selection · touch stitch 2

Screen · suggests using reverse pattern presser foot No.1C · basic settings (length and width) for Zigzag Stitch are preset at 1.5mm (length) and 3.5mm (width) · basic settings as well as altered settings are always visible on the screen

B A C A zigzag stitch with altered stitch length B zigzag stitch with altered stitch width C fabric edges finished with zigzag stitch

Altering the stitch width · the stitch width can be altered while sewing · turn the external stitch width knob to the right to make the stitch wider · turn the external stitch width knob to the left to make the stitch more narrow · move the knob in a smooth, gentle rotation for a smooth tapering of the stitch

Alter the stitch length · the stitch length can be altered while sewing · turn the external stitch length knob to the right to lengthen · turn the external stitch length knob to the left to shorten · move the knob in a smooth, gentle rotation for a smooth transition of the stitch length

Satin stitch · short stitch length setting indicated by parallel lines · filled-in stitch used for applique, cutwork, embroidery, and other decorative applications

Oversewing edges · good edge finish for most types of fabric · guide edge of fabric into the center of the presser foot · needle goes into fabric on one side and over the edge into the air on the other · do not select too wide a width or too long a stitch – the edge should lie flat and not roll

TIPS

Oversewing edges with Zig-zag · if edges roll, use the Vari-overlock stitch and foot No.2A

Embroidery with satin stitch · experiment with adjusting the stitch width for new decorative effects

6 Personal (altered) Memory

Altered Memory

Stitch: Any selected stitch Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: cotton or polyester Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1C

Altered Memory

· for all stitches and fabrics · altered stitch length and width settings are saved automatically · sew a stitch (e.g. zig-zag stitch) · select and sew a second stitch (e.g. straight stitch) · when the first stitch (zig-zag), is recalled, all altered settings remain · particularly useful when alternating between two applications, such as seaming and edge finishing · the altered memory can hold as many stitches as needed

A B

A altered zigzag stitch changed to altered running stitch B changed back to altered zigzag stitch and then changed again to altered running stitch

Altering the basic settings

· select zig-zag stitch No. 2 · alter stitch width to 9mm · alter stitch length to 1mm · sew a line of the altered zigzag stitch · select running stitch No. 4 · alter stitch width to 9mm · alter stitch length to 1mm · sew a line of the altered running stitch

Altered settings remain active

· select zig-zag stitch No. 2 · altered settings remain active · sew a line of the altered zigzag stitch · select running stitch No. 4 · altered settings remain active · sew a line of the altered running stitch

Return to basic settings

· Method 1: press the external clr button · Method 2: alter the stitch width and length manually · Method 3: turn machine off - altered settings will not be saved

TIPS

Altering stitch width and length

· the width and length of all stitches can be adjusted to suit the fabric and type of sewing. Very convenient when sewing a project which may require using the same stitches repeatedly.

Changing Stitches

· alternating between sewing seams and finishing edges is easy with altered settings for many stitches, which remain altered once set

Practical stitch seams

Open seams

Seams which are pressed open · seam allowance width as wide as desired · seam lies flat · seam does not stretch Suggested stitches: · straight, narrow zigzag, super stretch, and triple zigzag Application: · primarily for woven fabrics · works for most types of sewing projects, including clothing, home accessories, and crafts

Closed seam (overlock seams)

Seams which cannot be pressed open · sewn and finished in one operation · narrow seam allowances Suggested stitches: · vari-overlock, double overlock, and jersey Application: · primarily for knits and jerseys · excellent for knit clothing, lingerie, and bed linens

Flat joining seams

Seams where the edges are overlapped and then sewn · stitching is on the seam allowances Suggested stitch: · stretch overlock Application: · particularly good for terry cloth · also good for beachwear, leisure wear, and lingerie

Zig-zag seam

Stitch: Zig-zag stitch No. 2 Stitch width: approximately 1mm Stitch length: approximately 0.5mm Needle: universal, ballpoint, or stretch as needed Thread: cotton or polyester Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1C

Open seam applications · stitch has more “give” than a straight stitch · use for knits, outer wear, children’s knit clothes · seam lies flat and is not bulky · allows a garment to be let out

TIP Prevent stretching · to prevent the stretching of the seam while being sewn, reduce the presser foot pressure to suit the fabric

8 Practical stitch seams

Triple Straight Stitch seam

Stitch: Triple Straight Stitch No. 6 Needle: 80–90 universal or jeans Thread: polyester Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1C

Open seam · durable seam for firm and densely woven fabrics such as denim and corduroy · reinforced seam for garment areas subject to hard wear

TIP For heavy layers or very densely woven fabrics A jeans needle and jeans Foot No. 8 will help when stitching very heavy fabrics, such as denim or canvas

Stretch/Super stretch seam

Stitch: Super stretch No. 11 or Stretch No. 18 Needle: universal, ballpoint, or stretch as needed Thread: cotton or polyester Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1C

Open seam · stretch seam for knit fabrics · ideal for sports and leisure wear · seam lies flat and is not bulky

TIPS Knits and jersey · use a new needle to prevent damaging the fabric fibers

Sewing stretch fabrics · if necessary use a stretch ball point needle (130/705H-S); needle point slides between the fibers

Prevent stretching · to prevent the stretching of the seam while being sewn, reduce the presser foot pressure to suit the fabric

Practical stitch seams 9

Vari-overlock seam

Stitch: Vari-overlock No. 3 Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: cotton or polyester Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Overlock foot No. 2A

Closed seam · stretchy seam in fine, soft knits such as silk jersey and interlock

Sewing · guide the raw edge along the pin on the overlock foot · the stitch will form over the pin and over the edge of the fabric

TIPS Knits and jersey · use a new needle to prevent damaging the fabric fibers

Sewing stretch fabrics · if necessary use a stretch needle (130/705H-S); the point slides easily between the fibers

Double overlock seam/Jersey overlock seam

Stitch: Double Overlock No.10 or Jersey Overlock No.20 Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: cotton or polyester Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Overlock foot No. 2A

Closed seam · overlock seam in loose knits and cross seams in knits and jerseys

Sewing · guide the raw edge along the pin on the overlock foot · the stitch will form over the pin and over the edge of the fabric

TIPS Knits and jersey · use a new needle to prevent damaging the fabric fibers

Sewing stretch fabrics · if necessary use a stretch ball point needle (130/705H-S); the point slides easily between the fibers

10 Practical stitch seams

Stretch overlock seam/Reinforced overlock seam

Stitch: Stretch Overlock No. 13 or Reinforced Overlock No. 19 Needle: universal, ballpoint, or stretch as needed Thread: cotton or polyester Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1C

Closed seam · overlock seam in coarse or loose knits

Sewing · sew stretch overlock along the fabric edge · the stitch should go over the edge of the fabric on the right swing of the needle

TIP Prevent stretching · to prevent the stretching of the seam while being sewn, reduce the presser foot pressure to suit the fabric

Flat joining seam

Stitch: Stretch Overlock No. 13 Needle: universal, ballpoint, or stretch as needed Thread: cotton or polyester Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1C

Flat joining seam · fabric edges are overlapped and the stitch is placed on the seam allowance · produces a very flat, durable seam · ideal for fluffy, thick materials such as terry cloth, felt and leather

Sewing · sew stretch overlock along the fabric edge · the stitch should go over the edge of the top layer of fabric on the right swing of the needle

TIPS Fabric and thread · use a matching thread colour, for less visibility in fluffy fabrics

Thick seam · particularly suitable for fabrics in which a normal straight stitch seam would stretch open

Practical stitch hems 11

Hems with practical stitches

Preparation · fold and press hem; baste if desired

Sewing · sew hem at desired depth (right side) · trim excess fabric (wrong side)

Visible hem with Jersey stitch

Stitch: Jersey stitch No. 14 Needle: universal, ballpoint, or stretch as needed Thread: cotton or polyester Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1C

Visible stretch hem · for all types of cotton, wool, synthetic and mixed fiber jerseys

TIPS

Knits and jersey · use a new needle to prevent damaging the loops of the knit fabric

Sewing stretch fabrics · if necessary, use a stretch needle (130/705H-S); the point slides easily between the fibers

Visible hem with Triple Zig-zag

Stitch: Triple Zig-zag No. 7 Stitch width: 2.5mm – 9mm depending on fabric Stitch length: basic setting Needle: universal or jeans Thread: cotton or polyester Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1C

Strong visible seam · for firm, densely woven fabrics, particularly good for denim and canvas

TIPS

Hems on fabrics which may ravel · finish the raw edge of the hem; do not trim them after sewing

Sewing firm, hard fabrics · use a jeans needle for better penetration

12 Sewing knits

Sewing knits

I mportant tips for sewing knit fabrics

Start with a new needle · blunt needles can damage knits

Use a stretch needle (130/705 H-S) if necessary · the needle point slides easily between the fibers

Use a fine sewing thread · coarse threads can damage knits and cause holes when the garment is washed

When basting, use a darning thread · very lightweight (80 weight) darning thread is easier to remove once the seam is complete

Sew a test, when necessary · the elasticity of knit fabrics varies greatly · adjust basic settings to suit the fabric, the seam should be as stretchy as the fabric · for greater elasticity: · use a shorter stitch length · use a wider stitch width (only one of these adjustments may be necessary)

Presser foot pressure · soft, loose knits can wave when sewn: reduce the pressure until the seam lies flat the machine must still feed the fabric properly

Honeycomb stitch edges

Stitch: Honeycomb stitch No. 8 Needle: universal, ballpoint, or stretch as needed Thread: cotton or polyester Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1C

Honeycomb stitch edges · for all cotton, wool, synthetic and mixed fiber knits

Preparation · turn the raw edge under by 1 cm (3/8"); press and baste if desired

Sewing · sew from the right side · trim excess fabric from the wrong side

Balance/corrections · Stitch is too open – make the stitch shorter by touching the "up" (↑) balance arrow several times · Stitch is overlapping – make the stitch longer by touching the "down" (↓) balance arrow several times

TIPS

Needle stop down · needle stays in fabric when pivoting around curves (neck edges and armholes)

Presser foot pressure · reduce pressure if hem stretches

Sewing knits 13

Ribbing with overlock seam

Stitch: Vari-overlock No. 3 Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: cotton or polyester Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Overlock foot No. 2A

Ribbing with overlock seam · for all fine cotton, synthetic and mixed fiber knits

Preparation · fold ribbing in half · pin and baste to opening, front edge to outside

Sewing · sew Vari-overlock over the raw edge · guide the raw edge along the pin of the foot · the stitch will form over the pin and over the edge of the fabric

TIP Needle stop down · needle stays in fabric when you stop to adjust the rib- bing on curves (neck edge, armholes)

14 Zippers

Zippers

Stitch: Straight stitch No. 1 Needle: size and type suitable for the type of fabric selected Thread: cotton or polyester Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Zipper foot No. 4 Needle position: far right or far left

Preparation: · baste or pin zipper in place · fabric edges should meet over the center of the zipper

Sewing · sew both sides of zipper from bottom to top · needle position should be fully to the right on one side and and fully to the left on the other · edge of presser foot runs next to zipper teeth · position the foot so the needle stitches along the edge of the zipper teeth

TIPS

To sew around the zipper pull · close the zipper and sew up to about 5 cm (2") away from the pull · stop with the needle down in the fabric, raise the presser foot. Open the zipper, pulling the tab below the needle; lower the foot and continue to sew

Starting to sew · hold the thread firmly when starting to sew · pull the fabric gently behind the needle for a few stitches

Dense fabric · for even stitch formation, use a 90 or 100 needle

Long stitch function

This function works with the straight stitch to produce a longer than usual stitch.

The machine sews every second stitch when the Long stitch function is activated. The longest stitch possible is 10 mm when the stitch length is set at 5mm.

For decorative top stitching, the Long stitch function can be combined with Triple Straight stitch.

Long stitch

• for all work where a longer stitch is desired
• for topstitching

TIPS

Decorative top stitching

• use cordonnet (topstitching) thread and a 100-110 needle with the straight stitch

Basting

• long stitch can also be used to baste fine fabrics