Brother 4000D owner's manual: Chapter 2: Sewing Basics

Chapter 2

Sewing Basics

• SEWING ........ 38

• Sewing a Stitch ........ 38

• ■ Using the Foot Controller ........ 39

• Sewing Reinforcement Stitches ........ 40

• Sewing Curves ........ 40

• Changing Sewing Direction ........ 40

• Sewing Heavyweight Fabrics ........ 41

  • ■ If the Fabric does not Fit under the Presser Foot ........ 41
  • ■ If the Fabric does not Feed at the Beginning of Stitching ........ 41

• Sewing Lightweight Fabrics ........ 41

• STITCH SETTINGS ........ 42

• Setting the Stitch Width ........ 42

• Setting the Stitch Length ........ 42

• Setting the Thread Tension ........ 43

  • ■ Proper Thread Tension ........ 43
  • ■ Upper Thread is Too Tight ........ 43
  • ■ Upper Thread is Too Loose ........ 43

• USEFUL FUNCTIONS ........ 44

• Automatic Reinforcement Stitching ........ 44

• Automatic Thread Cutting ........ 45

  • ■ Using the Knee Lifter ........ 46

• Locking the Screen ........ 46

SEWING

SEWING

CAUTION

• To avoid injury, pay special attention to the needle while the machine is in operation. Keep your hands away from moving parts while the machine is in operation.
• Do not stretch or pull the fabric during sewing. Doing so may lead to injury.
• Do not use bent or broken needles. Doing so may lead to injury.
• Take care that the needle does not strike basting pins or other objects during sewing. Otherwise, the needle may break and cause injury.
• If stitches become bunched, lengthen the stitch length setting before continuing sewing. Otherwise, the needle may break and cause injury.

Sewing a Stitch

1. Turn the main power to ON, and push the “Needle Position” button to raise the needle.
2. Press the key of the stitch you want to sew.

→ The symbol of the correct presser foot will be displayed in the upper left corner of the LCD.

3. Install the presser foot (see “CHANGING THE PRESSER FOOT” on page 32).

CAUTION

• Always use the correct presser foot. If the wrong presser foot is used, the needle may strike the presser foot and bend or break, possibly resulting in injury.

4. Set the fabric under the presser foot. Hold the fabric and thread ends in your left hand, and turn the handwheel to set the needle in the sewing start position.

Memo The black button on the left side of presser foot “J” should be pressed only if the fabric does not feed or when sewing thick seams (see page 41). Normally, you can sew without pressing the black button.

5. Lower the presser foot.
   • You do not have to pull up the bobbin thread.
6. Adjust the sewing speed with the speed control slide.
   • You can use this slide to adjust sewing speed during sewing.

① Slow Fast

38

SEWING

7 Press the “Start/Stop” button to start sewing.

• Guide the fabric lightly by hand.

8 Press the “Start/Stop” button again to stop sewing.

9 Press the “Thread Cutter” button to trim the threads.

→ The needle will return to the up position automatically.

CAUTION

• Do not press the “Thread Cutter” button after the threads have been cut. Doing so could tangle the thread or break the needle and damage the machine.
• Do not press the “Thread Cutter” button when there is no fabric set in the machine or during machine operation. The thread may tangle, possibly resulting in damage.

Note

• When cutting thread thicker than #30, nylon thread, or other decorative threads, use the thread cutter on the side of the machine.

10 When the needle has stopped moving, raise the presser foot and remove the fabric.

Memo This machine is equipped with a bobbin thread sensor that warns you when the bobbin thread is almost empty. When the bobbin thread is nearly empty, the machine automatically stops. However, if the “Start/Stop” button is pressed, a few stitches can be sewn. If the warning displays, re-thread the machine immediately.

■ Using the Foot Controller You can also use the foot controller to start and stop sewing.

CAUTION Do not allow fabric pieces and dust to collect in the foot controller. Doing so could cause a fire or an electric shock.

Memo

• When the foot controller is being used, the “Start/Stop” button has no effect on sewing.
• The foot controller cannot be used when embroidering.
• The foot controller can be used for sewing utility and decorative stitches when the embroidery unit is attached.

1 Insert the foot controller plug into its jack on the machine.

① Foot controller ② Foot controller jack

Note Do not pull the retractable cord out beyond the red mark on the cord.

2 Sewing Basics 39

SEWING

2 Slowly depress the foot controller to start sewing.

Memo The speed set using the sewing speed controller is the foot controller’s maximum sewing speed.

3 Release the foot controller to stop the machine.

Memo (For U.S.A. only) Foot controller: Model S This foot controller can be used with model Innov-is 4000D/NV4000D

Sewing Reinforcement Stitches

Reverse/reinforcement stitches are generally necessary at the beginning and end of sewing. You can use the “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button to sew reverse/reinforcement stitches manually (see page 3).

If the automatic reinforcement stitch is selected on the screen, reverse stitches (or reinforcement stitches) will be sewn automatically at the beginning of sewing when the “Start/Stop” button is pressed. Press the “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button to sew reverse stitches (or reinforcement stitches) automatically at the end of sewing (see page 44).

Sewing Curves

Sew slowly while keeping the seam parallel with the fabric edge as you guide the fabric around the curve.

Changing Sewing Direction

Stop the machine. Leave the needle in the fabric, and press the “Presser Foot Lifter” button to raise the presser foot. Using the needle as a pivot, turn the fabric so that you can sew in the new direction. Press the “Presser Foot Lifter” button to lower the presser foot and start sewing.

When edge stitching a short stitch length close to the edge of the fabric, the presser foot may not cover enough fabric for proper feeding. Before you begin to sew, sew a basting thread at the corner point. When you change direction at the corner, start sewing as you pull the basting thread toward the back.

① 5 mm (approx. 3/16 inch)

40

SEWING

Sewing Heavyweight Fabrics

The sewing machine can sew fabrics up to 6 mm (approx. 1/4 inch) thick. If the thickness of a seam causes sewing to occur at an angle, help guide the fabric by hand and sew on the downward slope.

CAUTION

• Do not forcefully push fabrics more than 6 mm (approx. 1/4 inch) thick through the sewing machine. This may cause the needle to break and cause injury.

■ If the Fabric does not Fit under the Presser Foot

If the presser foot is in the up position, and you are sewing heavyweight or multiple layers of fabric which do not fit easily under the presser foot, use the presser foot lever to raise the presser foot to its highest position. The fabric will now fit under the presser foot.

Memo You cannot use the presser foot lever after the presser foot has been raised using the "Presser Foot Lifter" button.

■ If the Fabric does not Feed at the Beginning of Stitching

If the fabric does not feed when starting to sew or when sewing thick seams, press the black button on the left side of presser foot "J".

1. Raise the presser foot.
2. While keeping the black button on the left side of presser foot "J" pressed in, press the "Presser Foot Lifter" button to lower the presser foot.

3. Release the button.

→ The presser foot remains level, enabling the fabric to be fed.

Memo Once the trouble spot has been passed, the foot will return to its normal position.

Sewing Lightweight Fabrics

Place thin paper or tear away embroidery stabilizer under thin fabrics to make sewing easier. Gently tear off the paper or the stabilizer after sewing.

① Thin paper

41

STITCH SETTINGS

STITCH SETTINGS

When you select a stitch, your machine automatically selects the appropriate stitch width, stitch length, and upper thread tension. However, if needed, you can change any of the individual settings.

Note

• Settings for some stitches cannot be changed (refer to the "STITCH SETTING CHART" at the end of this manual).
• If you turn off the machine or select another stitch without saving stitch setting changes (see "Saving Your Stitch Settings" on page 50), the stitch settings will return to their default settings.

Setting the Stitch Width

Follow the steps below when you want to change the zigzag stitch pattern width.

Memo

• For an alternate method of changing the stitch width using the speed controller, see page 70.

Example: Press [−] to narrow the zigzag stitch pattern width.

→ The value in the display gets smaller.

Press [+] to widen the zigzag stitch pattern width.

→ The value in the display gets bigger.

Memo

• Press [RESET] to return the stitch width to the original setting.

Setting the Stitch Length

Follow the steps below when you want to change the stitch pattern length.

Example: Press [−] to shorten the stitch length.

→ The value in the display gets smaller.

42

STITCH SETTINGS

Press [ + ] to lengthen the stitch length.

→ The value in the display gets bigger.

Memo

• Using the Image Key, you can check changes made to the stitch.
• Press [ RESET ] to return the stitch length to the original setting.

CAUTION If the stitches get bunched together, lengthen the stitch length and continue sewing. Do not continue sewing without lengthening the stitch length. Otherwise, the needle may break and cause injury.

Setting the Thread Tension

You may need to change the thread tension, depending on the fabric and thread being used. Follow the steps below to make any necessary changes.

Proper Thread Tension The upper and lower threads should cross near the center of the fabric. If the thread tension is not properly set, the seam may have a poor finish or the fabric may pucker.

① Wrong side ② Surface ③ Upper thread ④ Bobbin thread

Upper Thread is Too Tight If the bobbin thread can be seen on the surface of the fabric, press [ - ].

① Bobbin thread ② Upper thread ③ Surface ④ Locks appear on surface of fabric

Upper Thread is Too Loose If the upper thread can be seen on the wrong side of the fabric, press [ + ].

① Upper thread ② Bobbin thread ③ Wrong side ④ Locks appear on wrong side of fabric

Memo

• Press [ RESET ] to return the thread tension to the original setting.

2 Sewing Basics

43

USEFUL FUNCTIONS

USEFUL FUNCTIONS

Automatic Reinforcement Stitching

After selecting a stitch pattern, turn on the automatic reinforcement stitching function before sewing, and the machine will automatically sew reinforcement stitches (or reverse stitches, depending on the stitch pattern) at the beginning and end of sewing.

1 Select a stitch pattern.

2 Press [icon] to set the automatic reinforcement stitching function.

→ The key will display as [icon].

Memo Some stitches, such as buttonholes and bar tacks, require reinforcement stitches at the beginning of sewing. If you select one of these stitches, the machine will automatically turn on this function (the key appears as [icon] when the stitch is selected).

3 Set the fabric in the start position and start sewing.

① Reverse stitches (or reinforcement stitches) → The machine will automatically sew reverse stitches (or reinforcement stitches) and then continue sewing.

Memo If you press the “Start/Stop” button to pause sewing, press it again to continue. The machine will not sew reverse reinforcement stitches again.

4 Press the “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button.

① Reverse stitches (or reinforcement stitches) → The machine will sew reverse stitches (or reinforcement stitches) and stop.

Memo To turn off the automatic reinforcement stitching function, press [icon] again, so it appears as [icon].

44

Automatic Thread Cutting

After selecting a stitch pattern, turn on the automatic thread cutting function before sewing, and the machine will automatically sew reinforcement stitches (or reverse stitches, depending on the stitch pattern) at the beginning and end of sewing, and trim the threads at the end of sewing. This function is useful when sewing buttonholes and bar tacks.

1 Select a stitch pattern.

2 Press [icon: scissors] to set the automatic thread cutting function.

→ The key will display as [icon: scissors].

Memo This function is set automatically when sewing embroidery.

USEFUL FUNCTIONS

3 Set the fabric in the start position and start sewing.

① Reverse stitches (or reinforcement stitches) → The machine will automatically sew reverse stitches (or reinforcement stitches) and then continue sewing.

Memo If you press the "Start/Stop" button to pause sewing, press the same button again to continue. The beginning reverse/reinforcement stitches will not be sewn again.

4 Press the "Reverse/Reinforcement Stitching" button.

① Reverse stitches (or reinforcement stitches) → The machine will sew reverse stitches (or reinforcement stitches), then trim the thread.

Memo To turn off the automatic thread cutting function, press [icon: scissors] again, so it appears as [icon: scissors].

45

USEFUL FUNCTIONS

■ Using the Knee Lifter

Using the knee lifter, you can raise and lower the presser foot with your knee, leaving both hands free to handle the fabric.

1. Align the tabs on the knee lifter with the notches in the jack, and then insert the knee lifter as far as possible.

Note If the knee lifter is not pushed into the mounting slot as far as possible, it may come out during use.

2. Use your knee to move the knee lifter to the right in order to raise the presser foot. Release the knee lifter to lower the presser foot.

CAUTION Be sure to keep your knee away from the knee lifter during sewing. If the knee lifter is pushed during machine operation, the needle may break or the thread tension may loosen.

Locking the Screen

If the screen is locked before starting to sew, the various settings such as the stitch width and stitch length are locked and cannot be changed. This prevents screen settings from accidentally being changed or the machine from being stopped while large pieces of fabric or projects are being sewn. The screen can be locked when sewing utility stitches and character decorative stitches.

1. Select a stitch pattern.
2. If necessary, adjust any settings such as the stitch width and stitch length.
3. Press [icon] to lock the screen settings. → The key appears as [icon].
4. Sew your project.
5. When you are finished sewing, press [icon] again to unlock the screen settings.

CAUTION

• If the screen is locked ( [icon] ), unlock the screen by pressing [icon]. While the screen is locked, no other key can be operated.
• The settings are unlocked when the machine is turned off and on.

46

Chapter 3

Utility Stitches

• SELECTING UTILITY STITCHES ........ 48

• Selecting a Stitch ........ 48

• Stitch Selection Screens ........ 48
• Using the Mirror Image Key ........ 49
• Using the Image Key ........ 49

• Saving Your Stitch Settings ........ 50

• Saving Settings ........ 50
• Retrieving Saved Settings ........ 51

• Using the Sewing Type Selection Key ........ 51

• SEWING THE STITCHES ........ 53

• Straight Stitches ........ 53

• Changing the Needle Position (Left or Middle Needle Position Stitches Only) ........ 55
• Using the Straight Stitch Needle Plate and the Straight Stitch Foot ........ 55
• Basting ........ 56

• Dart Seam ........ 57
• Gathering ........ 57
• Flat Fell Seam ........ 58
• Pintuck ........ 59
• Zigzag Stitches ........ 60

• Overcasting (Using a Zigzag Stitch) ........ 60
• Appliqué (Using a Zigzag Stitch) ........ 60
• Patchwork (for Crazy Quilt) ........ 61
• Sewing Curves (Using a Zigzag Stitch) ........ 61
• Cord Guide Bobbin Cover (Using a Zigzag Stitch) ........ 61

• Elastic Zigzag Stitches ........ 62

• Tape Attaching ........ 62
• Overcasting ........ 62

• Overcasting ........ 63

• Overcasting Using Presser Foot "G" ........ 63
• Overcasting Using Presser Foot "J" ........ 64
• Overcasting Using the Side Cutter ........ 65
• When Sewing Straight Stitches While Using the Side Cutter ... 66

• Quilting ........ 67

• Piecing ........ 68
• Quilting ........ 68
• Appliqué ........ 69
• Quilting with Satin Stitches ........ 70
• Free-motion Quilting ........ 71

• Blind Hem Stitches ........ 72

• If the Needle does not Catch the Fold ........ 73
• If the Needle Catches Too Much of the Fold ........ 73

• Appliqué ........ 73

• Sewing Sharp Curves ........ 74

• Shelltuck Stitches ........ 74
• Scallop Stitches ........ 75
• Top Stitching ........ 75
• Smocking Stitches ........ 76
• Fagoting ........ 76
• Tape or Elastic Attaching ........ 77
• Heirloom ........ 78

• Hemstitching (1) (Daisy Stitch) ........ 78
• Hemstitching (2) (Drawn Work) ........ 78
• Hemstitching (3) ........ 79

• One-step Buttonholes ........ 80

• Sewing Stretch Fabrics ........ 83
• Odd Shaped Buttons/Buttons that do not Fit into the Button Holder Plate ........ 83

• Four-step Buttonholes ........ 84

• Darning ........ 86

• Bar Tacks ........ 88

• Bar Tacks on Thick Fabrics ........ 89

• Button Sewing ........ 90

• Attaching 4 Hole Buttons ........ 91
• Attaching a Shank to the Button ........ 91

• Eyelet ........ 92
• Multi-directional Sewing (Straight Stitch and Zigzag Stitch) ........ 93
• Zipper Insertion ........ 94

• Centered Zipper ........ 94
• Inserting a Side Zipper ........ 95

SELECTING UTILITY STITCHES

SELECTING UTILITY STITCHES

Selecting a Stitch

■ Stitch Selection Screens

There are 5 categories of Utility Stitches. P. 1 P. 2 indicates that there is more than one stitch selection screen for that category.

Straight/Overcasting/Quilting Stitches

P. 1 P. 2

Decorative Stitches

Heirloom Stitches

Buttonholes/Bar tacks

Multi-directional Sewing

48

SELECTING UTILITY STITCHES

1 Turn the main power to ON. → Either “1-01 Straight stitch (Left)” or “1-03 Straight stitch (Middle)” is selected, depending on the setting selected in the setting screen.

2 Use [icon] [icon] [icon] [icon] [icon] to select the category you want.

• Press [Utility Stitch icon] to view this screen if another screen displays.
• Press [Down Arrow icon] to view the next page.

① Preview of the selected stitch ② Stitch selection screen

3 Press the key of the stitch you want to sew.

Memo For details on each stitch, refer to the “STITCH SETTING CHART” at the end of this manual.

■ Using the Mirror Image Key

Depending on the type of utility stitch you select, you may be able to sew a horizontal mirror image of the stitch.

If [Mirror Icon] is lit when you select a stitch, it will be possible to make a mirror image of the stitch.

Note If [Mirror Icon] is light gray after you select a stitch, you cannot create a horizontal mirror image of the selected stitch (this is true of buttonholes, multi-directional sewing, and others).

Press [Mirror Icon] to create a horizontal mirror image of the selected stitch.

The key will display as [Mirrored Icon].

[Icon] [Mirrored Icon]

■ Using the Image Key

You can display an actual size image of the selected stitch. You can also check and change the colors of the image on the screen.

1 Press [Book Icon].

→ An image of the selected stitch is displayed.

49

SELECTING UTILITY STITCHES

2 Press [icon] to change the thread color of the stitch on the screen.

• Press [icon] to display an enlarged image of the stitch.

Memo

• The color changes every time you press [icon].
• The units of the stitch display area are in mm.

① Stitch screen

3 Press CLOSE to go back to the original screen.

Saving Your Stitch Settings

The settings for the zigzag stitch width, stitch length, thread tension, automatic thread cutting, automatic reinforcement stitching, etc., are preset in the machine for each stitch. However, if you have specific settings that you wish to reuse later for a stitch, you can change the settings so that they can be saved for that stitch. Five sets of settings can be saved for a single stitch.

■ Saving Settings

1 Select a stitch. (Example: [icon])

2 Specify your preferred settings.

50

SELECTING UTILITY STITCHES

3 Press MEMORY.

\rightarrow The settings are saved and the original screen automatically appears.

Memo If you try to save settings when there are already 5 sets of settings saved for a stitch, a message will appear. Follow the directions in the message to erase one set of currently saved settings and save the new settings.

■ Retrieving Saved Settings

1 Select a stitch.

Memo When a stitch is selected, the last settings retrieved are displayed. The last settings retrieved are retained even if the machine was turned off or a different stitch was selected.

2 Press RETRIEVE.

3 Press the numbered key of the settings to be retrieved.

• Press CLOSE to return to the original screen without retrieving settings.

① Numbered keys

4 Press RETRIEVE.

Memo You can delete the selected settings by pressing DELETE.

\rightarrow The selected settings are retrieved, and the original screen automatically appears.

Using the Sewing Type Selection Key

You can also select utility stitches using . Use this key when you are not sure which stitch to use for your application, or to get advice about sewing particular stitches. For example, if you want to sew overcasting, but you do not know which stitch to use or how to sew the stitch, you can use this screen to get advice. We recommend that beginners use this method to select stitches.

51

SELECTING UTILITY STITCHES

Example: Displaying information about overcasting

1. Press [icon of shirt]. → The advice screen is displayed.

2. Press BUTTONHOLE.

   • Press CLOSE to return to the original screen. → The upper part of the screen displays a selection of overcasting stitches with explanations.

3. Read the explanations and select the appropriate stitch.

   • Press [up arrow] or [down arrow] to scroll the page. → The screen displays directions for sewing the selected stitch.

4. Follow the directions to sew the stitch.

   • Press [next page arrow] to view the next page.

52

SEWING THE STITCHES

Straight Stitches

\begin{tabular}{|l|l|l|p{4.5cm}|c|c|c|c|c|} \hline \textbf{Stitch} & \textbf{Stitch name} & \textbf{Presser foot} & \textbf{Applications} & \multicolumn{2}{c|}{\textbf{Stitch width [mm (inch.)]}} & \multicolumn{2}{c|}{\textbf{Stitch length [mm (inch.)]}} & \textbf{Twin needle} \ \cline{5-8} & & & & \textbf{Auto.} & \textbf{Manual} & \textbf{Auto.} & \textbf{Manual} & \ \hline 1-01 & \textbf{Straight stitch (Left)} & J & General sewing, gather, pintuck, etc. Reverse stitch is sewn while pressing "Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch" button. & 0.0 (0) & 0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4) & 2.5 (3/32) & 0.2 - 5.0 (1/64 - 3/16) & OK (J) \ \hline 1-02 & \textbf{Straight stitch (Left)} & J & General sewing, gather, pintuck, etc. Reinforcement stitch is sewn while pressing "Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch" button. & 0.0 (0) & 0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4) & 2.5 (3/32) & 0.2 - 5.0 (1/64 - 3/16) & OK (J) \ \hline 1-03 & \textbf{Straight stitch (Middle)} & J & General sewing, gather, pintuck, etc. Reverse stitch is sewn while pressing "Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch" button. & 3.5 (1/8) & 0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4) & 2.5 (3/32) & 0.2 - 5.0 (1/64 - 3/16) & OK (J) \ \hline 1-04 & \textbf{Straight stitch (Middle)} & J & General sewing, gather, pintuck, etc. Reinforcement stitch is sewn while pressing "Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch" button. & 3.5 (1/8) & 0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4) & 2.5 (3/32) & 0.2 - 5.0 (1/64 - 3/16) & OK (J) \ \hline 1-05 & \textbf{Triple stretch stitch} & J & General sewing for reinforcement and decorative topstitching & 0.0 (0) & 0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4) & 2.5 (3/32) & 1.5 - 4.0 (1/16 - 3/16) & OK (J) \ \hline 1-06 & \textbf{Stem stitch} & J & Reinforced stitching, sewing and decorative applications & 1.0 (1/16) & 1.0 - 3.0 (1/16 - 1/8) & 2.5 (3/32) & 1.0 - 4.0 (1/16 - 3/16) & OK (J) \ \hline 1-07 & \textbf{Decorative stitch} & N & Decorative stitching, top stitching & 0.0 (0) & 0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4) & 2.5 (3/32) & 1.0 - 4.0 (1/16 - 3/16) & OK (J) \ \hline 1-08 & \textbf{Basting stitch} & J & Basting & 0.0 (0) & 0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4) & 20.0 (3/4) & 5.0 - 30.0 (3/16 - 1-3/16) & NO \ \hline \end{tabular}

① Left needle position ② Middle needle position

① Reverse stitch ② Reinforcement stitch

Memo If the selected stitch has a double mark "‖" at the top of the key display, you can sew reverse stitches holding the "Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch" button. If the selected stitch has a dot mark "·" at the top of the key display, you can sew reinforcement stitches holding the "Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch" button (see page 40).

53

SEWING THE STITCHES

1 Select a stitch.

2 Attach presser foot “J”.

3 Hold the thread tails and fabric with your left hand, and turn the handwheel with your right hand to insert the needle into the fabric.

① Sewing start position

4 Lower the presser foot, and hold the “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button to sew 3-4 stitches. → The machine sews reverse stitches (or reinforcement stitches).

5 Press the “Start/Stop” button to sew forward.

① Reverse stitches → The machine will begin sewing slowly.

CAUTION Be sure the needle does not strike a basting pin, or any other objects, during sewing. The thread could tangle or the needle could break, causing injury.

6 When sewing is completed, hold the “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button to sew 3-4 reverse stitches (or reinforcement stitches) at the end of the seam.

7 After sewing, press the “Thread Cutter” button to trim the threads.

Memo When the automatic thread cutting and automatic reinforcement stitch keys on the screen are selected, reverse stitches (or reinforcement stitches) will be sewn automatically at the beginning of sewing when the “Start/Stop” button is pressed. Press the “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button to sew reverse stitches (or reinforcement stitches) and trim the thread automatically at the end of sewing.

54

SEWING THE STITCHES

Changing the Needle Position (Left or Middle Needle Position Stitches Only)

When you select left or middle needle position stitches, you can use [−] and [+] in the stitch width display to change the position of the needle. Match the distance from the right edge of the presser foot to the needle with the stitch width, then align the edge of the presser foot with the edge of the fabric during sewing for an attractive finish.

① Stitch width

Example: Left/Middle needle position stitches

[Diagram showing four configurations of presser foot J relative to stitch width settings]

WIDTH 0.0 mm WIDTH 3.5 mm WIDTH 5.5 mm WIDTH 7.0 mm

12.0 mm (approx. 1/2 inch) 8.5 mm (approx. 11/32 inch) 6.5 mm (approx. 1/4 inch) 5.0 mm (approx. 3/16 inch)

Memo For a standard 16 mm (approx. 5/8 inch) seam allowance, set the width to 0 mm on the screen. While sewing, align the edge of the fabric with the 16mm (approx. 5/8 inch) mark on the needle plate.

① 16 mm (approx. 5/8 inch)

Using the Straight Stitch Needle Plate and the Straight Stitch Foot

The straight stitch needle plate and the straight stitch foot can only be used for straight stitches (middle needle position stitches). Use the straight stitch needle plate and the straight stitch foot when sewing thin fabrics or when sewing small pieces which tend to sink into the hole of the regular needle plate during sewing. The straight stitch foot is perfect to reduce puckering on lightweight fabrics. The small opening on the foot provides support for the fabric as the needle travels through the fabric.

CAUTION Always use the straight stitch foot in combination with the straight stitch needle plate.

1. Press the “Presser Foot Lifter” button to raise the presser foot and turn the main power to OFF.
2. Remove the flat bed attachment or the embroidery unit if either are attached.
3. Grasp both sides of the needle plate cover, and then slide it toward you.

① Needle plate cover

4. Grasp the bobbin case, and then pull it out.

① Bobbin case

5. Use the screwdriver included with the machine to unscrew and remove the regular needle plate.

3 Utility Stitches

55

SEWING THE STITCHES

6 Set the straight stitch needle plate in place and use the screwdriver to tighten the plate.

7 Insert the bobbin case in its original position, and then attach the needle plate cover.

Note Align the two screw holes on the needle plate with the two holes on the machine and screws in the needle plate.

8 After reinstalling the needle plate cover, select any of the straight stitches.

Memo When using the straight stitch needle plate, all straight stitches become middle needle position stitches. You cannot change the needle position using the width display.

CAUTION

• Selecting other stitches will cause an error message to be displayed.
• Be sure to turn the handwheel slowly in your direction before sewing and make sure that the needle is not contacting the straight stitch foot and straight stitch needle plate.

9 Attach the straight stitch foot.

10 Start sewing.

• After sewing, make sure to remove the straight stitch needle plate and the straight stitch foot, and reinstall the regular needle plate, the needle plate cover and the presser foot "J".

Memo To prevent puckering on fine fabrics, use a fine needle, size 75/11, and a short stitch length. For heavier fabrics, use a heavier needle, size 90/14, and longer stitches.

■ Basting

1 Select [icon] and attach presser foot “J”.

2 Press the “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button to sew reinforcement stitches, then continue sewing.

Memo If you do not want to use a reinforcement stitch at the beginning; you should lift the presser foot, rotate the handwheel, pull up the bobbin thread and pull a length of top and bobbin thread out from the rear of the machine.

You can set the stitch length between 5 mm (approx. 3/16 inch) and 30 mm (approx. 1-3/16 inches)

① Between 5 mm (approx. 3/16 inch) and 30 mm (approx. 1-3/16 inches)

3 Sew while keeping the fabric straight.

4 End the basting with reinforcement stitches.

56

SEWING THE STITCHES

Dart Seam

1 Select [image: stitch pattern 1-01] and attach presser foot “J”.

2 Sew a reverse stitch at the beginning of the dart and then sew from the wide end to the other end without stretching the fabric.

• If automatic reinforcement stitching is preset, a reinforcement stitch will automatically be sewn at the beginning of sewing.

① Basting

3 Cut the thread at the end leaving 50 mm (approx. 1-15/16 inches), and then tie both ends together.

• Do not sew a reverse stitch at the end.

4 Insert the ends of the thread into the dart with a needle.

5 Iron the dart to one side so that it is flat.

Gathering

Use on waists of skirts, sleeves of shirts, etc.

1 Select a straight stitch and attach presser foot “J”.

2 Set the stitch length to 4.0 mm (approx. 3/16 inch) and the thread tension to approximately 2.0 (weaker tension).

• If you press GATHERING after pressing [image: button], the stitch length will be set automatically to 4.0 mm (approx. 3/16 inch) and the thread tension will be automatically set to 2.0.

3 Pull the bobbin and upper threads out by 50 mm (approx. 1-15/16 inches) (see page 23).

① Upper thread ② Bobbin thread ③ About 50 mm (approx. 1-15/16 inches)

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SEWING THE STITCHES

4 Sew two rows of straight stitches parallel to the seam line, then trim excess thread leaving 50 mm (approx. 1-15/16 inches).

① Seam line ② 10 to 15 mm (approx. 3/8 inch to 9/16 inch) ③ About 50 mm (approx. 1-15/16 inches)

5 Pull the bobbin threads to obtain the desired amount of gather, then tie the threads.

6 Smooth the gathers by ironing them.

7 Sew on the seam line and remove the basting stitch.

Flat Fell Seam

Use for reinforcing seams and finishing edges neatly.

1 Select and attach presser foot “J”.

2 Sew the finish line, then cut half of the seam allowance from the side on which the flat fell seam will lie.

• When the automatic thread cutting and automatic reinforcement stitching are preset, reinforcement stitches will be sewn automatically at the beginning of sewing. Press the "Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch" button to sew a reinforcement stitch and trim the thread automatically at the end of sewing.

① About 12 mm (approx. 1/2 inch) ② Wrong side

3 Spread the fabric out along the finish line.

① Finish line ② Wrong side

4 Lay both seam allowances on the side of the shorter seam (cut seam) and iron them.

① Wrong side

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SEWING THE STITCHES

5 Fold the longer seam allowance around the shorter one, and sew the edge of the fold.

① Wrong side Finished flat fell seam

① Surface

Pintuck

1 Mark along the folds on the wrong side of the fabric.

① Wrong side

2 Turn the fabric and iron the folded parts only.

① Surface

3 Select 1-03 and attach presser foot “1”.

4 Sew a straight stitch along the fold.

• When the automatic thread cutting and automatic reinforcement stitching are preset, reinforcement stitches will be sewn automatically at the beginning of sewing. Press the “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button to sew a reinforcement stitch and trim the thread automatically at the end of sewing.

① Width for pintuck ② Wrong side ③ Surface

5 Iron the folds in the same direction.

3 Utility Stitches

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SEWING THE STITCHES

Zigzag Stitches

Zigzag stitches are useful for overcasting, appliqué, patchwork, and many other applications. Select a stitch, and attach presser foot “J”.

If the stitch which you select has a double mark “▮” at the top of the key display, you can sew reverse stitches by holding the “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button.

If the stitch which you select has a dot mark “·” at the top of the key display, you can sew reinforcement stitches by holding the “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button (see page 40).

\begin{tabular}{|l|l|c|p{3.5cm}|c|c|c|c|c|} \hline \textbf{Stitch} & \textbf{Stitch name} & \textbf{Presser foot} & \textbf{Applications} & \multicolumn{2}{c|}{\textbf{Stitch width [mm (inch.)]}} & \multicolumn{2}{c|}{\textbf{Stitch length [mm (inch.)]}} & \textbf{Twin needle} \ \cline{5-8} & & & & \textbf{Auto.} & \textbf{Manual} & \textbf{Auto.} & \textbf{Manual} & \ \hline 1-09 & Zigzag stitch & J & For overcasting, mending. Reverse stitch is sewn while pressing “Reverse/ Reinforcement” button. & 3.5 (1/8) & 0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4) & 1.4 (1/16) & 0.0 - 4.0 (0 - 3/16) & OK (J) \ \hline 1-10 & Zigzag stitch & J & For overcasting, mending. Reinforcement stitch is sewn while pressing “Reverse/ Reinforcement Stitch” button. & 3.5 (1/8) & 0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4) & 1.4 (1/16) & 0.0 - 4.0 (0 - 3/16) & OK (J) \ \hline 1-11 & Zigzag stitch (right) & J & Start from right needle position, zigzag sew at left. & 3.5 (1/8) & 2.5 - 5.0 (3/32 - 3/16) & 1.4 (1/16) & 0.3 - 4.0 (1/64 - 3/16) & OK (J) \ \hline 1-12 & Zigzag stitch (left) & J & Start from left needle position, zigzag sew at right. & 3.5 (1/8) & 2.5 - 5.0 (3/32 - 3/16) & 1.4 (1/16) & 0.3 - 4.0 (1/64 - 3/16) & OK (J) \ \hline \end{tabular}

1 Select a stitch.

2 Attach presser foot “J”.

Overcasting (Using a Zigzag Stitch)

Sew the overcasting along the edge of the fabric while positioning the right-hand side needle drop point just outside the edge of the fabric.

① Needle drop position

Appliqué (Using a Zigzag Stitch)

Attach the appliqués using a temporary spray adhesive or basting, then sew it.

• Sew a zigzag stitch while positioning the right-hand side needle drop point just outside the edge of the fabric.

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SEWING THE STITCHES

■ Patchwork (for Crazy Quilt)

Turn back the desired width of fabric and position it over the lower fabric, then sew so that the stitch bridges both pieces of fabric.

■ Sewing Curves (Using a Zigzag Stitch)

Shorten the stitch length setting to obtain a fine stitch. Sew slowly, keeping the seams parallel with the fabric edge as you guide the fabric around the curve.

■ Cord Guide Bobbin Cover (Using a Zigzag Stitch)

1. Remove the bobbin cover from the machine (see page 22).
2. Thread the gimp thread through the hole in the cord guide bobbin cover from top to bottom. Position the thread in the notch at the back of the cord guide bobbin cover.

① Notch ② Gimp thread

3. Snap the cord guide bobbin cover into place, making sure that the gimp thread can be fed freely.
   • Make sure there are no restrictions when feeding the thread.

4. Set the zigzag width from 2.0-2.5 mm (approx. 1/16 - 3/32 inch).
5. Attach presser foot “N”.
6. Position the fabric right side up on top of the cord and place the cord to the rear of the machine under the presser foot.

① Fabric (right side) ② Gimp thread

7. Lower the presser foot and start sewing to make a decorative finish.

3 Utility Stitches

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Elastic Zigzag Stitches

Use elastic zigzag stitches for tape attaching, overcasting, darning, or a wide variety of other uses.

1 Select a stitch.

2 Attach presser foot “J”.

Tape Attaching

Stretch the tape flat. While stretching the tape flat, sew the tape to the fabric.

① Tape

Overcasting

Use this stitch to sew overcasting on the edge of stretch fabrics. Sew the overcasting along the edge of the fabric while positioning the right-hand side needle drop point just outside the edge of the fabric.

Overcasting

Use for the beginning and end of seams in skirts or trousers, and the beginning and end of all cuttings. Use presser foot “G”, presser foot “J”, or the side cutter attachment depending on the kind of overcasting stitch you select.

■ Overcasting Using Presser Foot “G”

1 Select a stitch and attach presser foot “G”.

2 Lower the presser foot so that the presser foot guide is set flush against the edge of the fabric.

3 Sew along the presser foot guide.

① Guide

CAUTION

• After the stitch width is adjusted, turn the handwheel toward you by hand and check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. If the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may break and cause injury.

① The needle should not touch

• If the presser foot is raised to its highest level, the needle may strike the presser foot.

SEWING THE STITCHES

■ Overcasting Using Presser Foot “J”

1 Select a stitch and attach presser foot “J”.

2 Sew with the needle dropping slightly off the edge of the fabric.

① Needle drop position

Overcasting Using the Side Cutter

By using the side cutter, you can do overcasting while cutting the fabric.

CAUTION

• Make sure to only select one of the stitches listed below. Using another stitch may cause the needle to hit the presser foot and break, possibly causing injury.

Memo

Thread the needle manually when using the side cutter, or only attach the side cutter after threading the needle using the “Automatic Threading” button.

1. Follow the steps on page 32 to remove the presser foot.

2. Position the fork on the side cutter’s operating lever onto the needle clamp screw.

① Needle clamp screw
② Operating lever

Memo

Make sure that the fork of the operating lever is set onto the needle screw firmly.

3. Position the side cutter so that the side cutter pin is aligned with the notch in the presser foot holder, and then lower the presser foot.

① Notch in presser foot holder
② Pin
→ The side cutter is attached.

SEWING THE STITCHES

4 Select a stitch.

5 Make a cut of approximately 20 mm (approx. 3/4 inch) in the fabric.

① 20 mm (approx. 3/4 inch)

6 Position the fabric so that the right side of the cut is on top of the guide plate and the left side of the cut is underneath the presser foot.

① Guide plate (lower knife) ② Presser foot

7 Thread the needle manually and pull out a long section of the upper thread. Pass it below the presser foot and pull it out in the fabric feed direction.

① Presser foot ② Upper thread

8 Start sewing.

→ A seam allowance is cut while the stitching is sewn.

Note If the width has been adjusted, turn the hand-wheel by hand to check that the needle does not touch the side cutter. If the needle touches the side cutter, it might cause the needle to break.

■ When Sewing Straight Stitches While Using the Side Cutter

The seam margin should be approximately 5 mm (approx. 3/16 inch).

① Seam margin

Memo

• The fabric will not be cut if the whole fabric is simply spread out underneath the presser foot guide plate. Set the fabric as explained in step 6 from the previous section, and then start sewing.

• One layer of 13 oz. denim can be cut.
• Clean the side cutter after use to avoid having dust and scraps of thread build up on it.
• Add a small amount of oil as required to the cutting edge of the cutter.

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