Brother 4000D owner's manual: Sewing the stitches

SEWING THE STITCHES

Quilting

You can make beautiful quilts quickly and easily with this machine. When making a quilt, you will find it convenient to use the knee lifter and foot controller to free your hands for other tasks (see “Using the Foot Controller” on page 39 and /or see “Using the Knee Lifter” on page 46).

If there is a “P” or “Q” at the bottom of the key display, the indicated stitch is intended for quilting.

\begin{tabular}{|l|l|c|p{3.5cm}|c|c|c|c|c|} \hline \textbf{Pattern} & \textbf{Name of pattern} & \textbf{Type of presser foot} & \textbf{Use} & \multicolumn{2}{c|}{\textbf{Stitch width [mm (inch.)]}} & \multicolumn{2}{c|}{\textbf{Stitch length [mm (inch.)]}} & \textbf{Twin needle possibility} \ \cline{5-8} & & & & \textbf{Auto.} & \textbf{Manual} & \textbf{Auto.} & \textbf{Manual} & \ \hline 1-30 P & Piecing stitch (Right) & J & Piecework/patchwork 6.5 mm (approx. 1/4 inch) right seam allowance & 5.5 (7/32) & 0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4) & 2.0 (1/16) & 0.2 - 5.0 (1/64 - 3/16) & NO \ \hline 1-31 P & Piecing stitch (Middle) & J & Piecework/patchwork & — & — & 2.0 (1/16) & 0.2 - 5.0 (1/64 - 3/16) & NO \ \hline 1-32 P & Piecing stitch (Left) & J & Piecework/patchwork 6.5 mm (approx. 1/4 inch) left seam allowance & 1.5 (1/16) & 0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4) & 2.0 (1/16) & 0.2 - 5.0 (1/64 - 3/16) & NO \ \hline 1-33 Q & Hand-look quilting & J & Quilting stitch made to look like hand quilting stitch & 0.0 (0) & 0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4) & 2.5 (3/32) & 1.0 - 4.0 (1/16 - 3/16) & NO \ \hline 1-34 Q & Quilting appliqué zigzag stitch & J & Zigzag stitch for quilting and sewing on appliqué quilt pieces & 3.5 (1/8) & 0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4) & 1.4 (1/16) & 0.0 - 4.0 (0 - 3/16) & NO \ \hline 1-35 Q & Quilting appliqué stitch & J & Quilting stitch for invisible appliqué or attaching binding & 1.5 (1/16) & 0.5 - 5.0 (1/64 - 3/16) & 1.8 (1/16) & 1.0 - 4.0 (1/16 - 3/16) & NO \ \hline 1-36 Q & Quilting stippling & J & Background quilting & 7.0 (1/4) & 1.0 - 7.0 (1/16 - 1/4) & 1.6 (1/16) & 1.0 - 4.0 (1/16 - 3/16) & NO \ \hline \end{tabular}

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SEWING THE STITCHES

■ Piecing

Sewing two pieces of fabric together is called piecing. When cutting pieces for quilt blocks, make sure the seam allowance is 6.5 mm (approx. 1/4 inch).

1 Select [1-30] or [1-32] and attach presser foot “J”.

2 Align the edge of the fabric with the edge of the presser foot, and start sewing.

• To sew a 6.5 mm (approx. 1/4 inch) seam allowance along the left edge of the presser foot with [1-30] selected, the width should be set to 5.5 mm (approx. 7/32 inch).

① 6.5 mm (approx. 1/4 inch)

• To sew a 6.5 mm (approx. 1/4 inch) seam allowance along the left edge of the presser foot with [1-32] selected, the width should be set to 1.5 mm (approx. 1/32 inch).

① 6.5 mm (approx. 1/4 inch)

• To change the needle position, use + or - in the width display.

Memo Using a straight stitch (middle needle position) makes it easier to sew smoothly (see page 53).

■ Quilting

Sewing together the quilt top, batting, and backing is called quilting. You can sew the quilt with the walking foot to keep the quilt top, batting, and backing from sliding. The walking foot has a set of feed dogs that move together with the feed dogs in the needle plate during sewing. For straight line quilting, use the walking foot and the straight stitch needle plate. Always select a straight stitch (middle needle position) when using the straight stitch needle plate.

1 Select [1-31], [1-32] or [1-34].

2 Attach the walking foot (see page 33).

3 Place one hand on each side of the presser foot to hold the fabric secure while sewing.

Memo

• Sew at slow to medium speed.
• Do not sew in reverse or use stitches that require side ways or reverse feeding. Always check to be sure that your quilting surface is securely basted before beginning to sew. Specialized machine quilt needles and threads are also available for machine quilting.

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■ Appliqué

1 Trace the pattern onto the appliqué fabric and then cut around it, leaving a 3 to 5 mm (approx. 1/8 to 3/16 inch) seam allowance.

① Seam allowance: 3 to 5 mm (approx. 1/8 to 3/16 inch)

2 Place a piece of thick paper cut to the finished size of the appliqué design onto the fabric, and then fold over the seam margin using an iron. Clip curves when necessary.

3 Turn the appliqué over, and attach the thick paper with basting pins or a basting stitch.

4 Select [icon] and attach presser foot "J".

5 Use the quilting appliqué stitch to attach the appliqué. Sew around the edge while dropping the needle as close to the edge as possible.

① Needle drop position

CAUTION

• Be careful that the needle does not strike a basting pin during sewing. Striking a pin can cause the needle to break, resulting in injury.

You can use the appliqué technique to attach appliqué designs like the three pictured below.

① Dresden plate ② Stained glass ③ Sunbonnet sue

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SEWING THE STITCHES

■ Quilting with Satin Stitches

Use the foot controller to sew with satin stitches. If you set the speed control slide to control the stitch width, you can make subtle changes in the stitch width during sewing.

1. Attach the foot controller (see page 39).
2. Select [image of stitch icon] and attach presser foot "J".
3. Press [minus button] in the length display to shorten the stitch length.

Memo The setting will vary according to the kind of fabric and the thickness of the thread, but a length of 0.3 to 0.5 mm (approx. 1/64 to 1/32 inch) is best for satin stitches.

4. Press [icon] to use the speed control slide to control the stitch width.
5. Set the width control to "ON".

Memo You can use the speed control slide to adjust the stitch width. Use the foot controller to adjust the sewing speed.

6. Press [CLOSE button] . → The display will return to the original screen.
7. Start sewing
   • You can adjust the stitch width during sewing by moving the sewing speed controller. Slide the lever to the left, and the stitch width becomes narrower. Slide it to the right, the stitch width becomes wider. The size of the width changes equally on both sides of the middle needle position.

① narrower ② wider

Rough sketch (line)

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■ Free-motion Quilting With free-motion quilting, the feed dogs can be lowered (using the feed dog position switch) so that the fabric can be moved freely in any direction. The quilting foot is needed for free-motion quilting. We recommend attaching the foot controller and sewing at a consistent speed.

Memo In order to sew a balanced stitch, it may be necessary to lower the upper thread tension.

1 Select .

2 Remove the presser foot holder (see page 33).

3 Align the quilting foot with the lower-left side of the presser bar.

Memo The pin on the quilting foot should be positioned over the needle clamp screw.

4 Hold the quilting foot in place with your right hand, and then tighten the presser foot holder screw using the screwdriver in your left hand.

① Pin on quilting foot ② Presser foot holder screw ③ Needle clamp screw

CAUTION

• Be sure to securely tighten the screws with the screwdriver. Otherwise, the needle may touch the presser foot, causing it to bend or break.

5 Lower the feed dog position switch, located at the rear of the base of the machine, to .

① Rear of machine ② Feed dog position switch (as seen from the rear of the machine) ③ Up ④ Down

6 Use both hands to stretch the fabric taut, and then move the fabric at a regular pace in order to sew uniform stitches roughly 2.0-2.5 mm (approx. 1/16 - 3/32 inch) in length.

① Stitch → Reinforcement stitches are sewn at the beginning and end of sewing.

7 After sewing is finished, raise the feed dog position switch to to raise the feed dogs.

Memo Normally, the feed dog position switch is in the up position.

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SEWING THE STITCHES

Blind Hem Stitches

Select from these stitches to sew the hems or cuffs of dresses, blouses, pants, or skirts.

\begin{tabular}{|l|l|l|l|c|c|c|c|l|} \hline \textbf{Stitch} & \textbf{Stitch name} & \textbf{Presser foot} & \textbf{Applications} & \multicolumn{2}{c|}{\textbf{Stitch width [mm (inch.)]}} & \multicolumn{2}{c|}{\textbf{Stitch length [mm (inch.)]}} & \textbf{Twin needle} \ \cline{5-8} & & & & \textbf{Auto.} & \textbf{Manual} & \textbf{Auto.} & \textbf{Manual} & \ \hline 2-01 & \textbf{Blind hem stitch} & R & Hemming woven fabrics & 0.0 (0) & +3.0 - -3.0 (+1/8 - -1/8) & 2.0 (1/16) & 1.0 - 3.5 (1/16 - 1/8) & NO \ \hline 2-02 & \textbf{Blind hem stitch stretch} & R & Hemming stretch fabric & 0.0 (0) & +3.0 - -3.0 (+1/8 - -1/8) & 2.0 (1/16) & 1.0 - 3.5 (1/16 - 1/8) & NO \ \hline \end{tabular}

1 Select a stitch.

2 Place the fabric wrong side up, and fold and baste the fabric.

① 5 mm (approx. 3/16 inch) ② Basting stitches

3 Fold the fabric again.

① 5 mm (approx. 3/16 inch) ② Wrong side of fabric ③ Basting stitches

4 Attach blind hem stitch foot "R", and lower the presser foot. Position the fabric so the folded edge touches the guide of the presser foot.

① Guide Fold

5 Sew the fabric, keeping the folded edge in contact with the presser foot.

① Needle position

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6 Remove the basting stitches and turn the fabric over.

① Wrong side of fabric ② Right side of fabric

Memo Blind hem stitches cannot be sewn if the left needle drop point does not catch the fold. If the needle catches too much of the fold, the fabric cannot be unfolded and the seam appearing on the right side of the fabric will be very large, leaving an unattractive finish. If you experience either of these cases, follow the instructions below to solve the problem.

■ If the Needle does not Catch the Fold Adjust the width so that the needle slightly catches the fold by pressing [−] in the width display.

■ If the Needle Catches Too Much of the Fold Adjust the width so that the needle slightly catches the fold by pressing [+] in the width display.

Appliqué

1 Use a temporary spray adhesive, fabric glue or a basting stitch to attach the appliqué to the fabric.

• This will keep the fabric from moving during sewing.

① Appliqué ② Fabric glue

2 Select or **.

• Adjust the stitch length and width to correspond to the appliqué shape, size, and quality of material (see page 42).

Memo For details on each stitch, refer to the "STITCH SETTING CHART" at the end of this manual.

3 Attach presser foot “J”. Check that the needle drops slightly off the edge of the appliqué, then start sewing.

① Appliqué material

① Needle drop position

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SEWING THE STITCHES

Sewing Sharp Curves Stop the machine with the needle in the fabric outside the appliqué. Raise the presser foot and turn the fabric a little bit at a time while sewing for an attractive finish to the seam.

Memo Placing a lightweight tear away stabilizer beneath the stitching area will improve the stitch placement along the edge of the appliqué fabric.

Shelltuck Stitches

Shelltuck stitches give an attractive appearance to shells along the curve of a collar. This stitch pattern can be used for edging the neckline or sleeves of dresses and blouses.

1. Select [icon of stitch pattern].

   Memo For details on each stitch, refer to the "STITCH SETTING CHART" at the end of this manual.

2. Increase the upper thread tension for an attractive scallop finish to the shelltuck stitches (see page 43).

   Memo If the upper thread tension is too weak, the shelltuck stitches will not scallop.

3. To make rows of shell tuck stitches, fold the fabric in half along the bias.

**Memo**
Use a thin fabric.

4. Attach presser foot “J”. Set the needle drop point slightly off the edge of the fabric, and start sewing.

① Needle drop position

5. Unfold the fabric, and iron the tucks to one side.

**Memo**
To make shell tucks at the edge of a collar or neckline, follow the pattern’s instructions and then use this stitch to make a decorative finish on the collar or neckline.

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SEWING THE STITCHES

Scallop Stitches

This wave-shaped running stitch is called the scallop stitch. Use this stitch to decorate the edges of blouse collars and handkerchiefs or use it as a hem accent.

Memo A temporary spray adhesive may be necessary for lightweight fabrics. Test sew the fabric before sewing a project.

1. Select [Icon: Stitch pattern 2-05].

Memo For details on each stitch, refer to the “STITCH SETTING CHART” at the end of this manual.

2. Attach presser foot “N”. Sew scallop stitches along the edge of the fabric.
   • Do not sew directly on the edge of the fabric.

3. Trim along the seam, making sure not to cut the stitches.

Memo Use a seam sealant to secure the edges of the scallop stitches.

Top Stitching

For a decorative look called “Crazy Quilting”, the following stitches can be sewn on top of a pressed seam allowance.

1. Select a straight stitch and attach presser foot “J”.

2. With the right sides facing each other, sew two pieces of fabric together, and then press open the seam allowance.

① Straight stitch ② Seam margins ③ 6.5 mm (approx. 1/4 inch) ④ Wrong side

3. Select a stitch for top stitching.

[Icon: Stitch pattern 2-07] [Icon: Stitch pattern 2-08] [Icon: Stitch pattern 2-09]

4. Place the fabric right side up in the machine, and center the presser foot over the seam when sewing.

① Right side of fabric

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SEWING THE STITCHES

Smocking Stitches

Use smocking stitches for decorative sewing on clothes, etc.

1. Select a straight stitch and attach presser foot “J”.
2. Set the stitch length to 4.0 mm (approx. 3/16 inch) and loosen the upper thread tension to approximately 2.0 (See pages 42 through 43).
3. Pull the bobbin and upper threads out by 50 mm (approx. 1-15/16 inches).
4. Sew the seams, leaving approximately 10 mm (approx. 3/8 inch) between the seams, then trim excess thread, leaving 50 mm (approx. 1-15/16 inches).

① Approximately 10 mm (approx. 3/8 inch)

5. Pull the bobbin threads to obtain the desired amount of gather, and then smooth the gathers by ironing them.

6. Select [icon: 2-10] or [icon: 2-12].

Memo For details on each stitch, refer to the “STITCH SETTING CHART” at the end of this manual.

7. Sew the spaces between the straight seams.

8. Pull out the straight stitch threads.

Fagoting

When there is a space between two fabrics with thread sewn over the space to join the fabrics together, it is called fagoting. Use this stitch when sewing blouses or children’s clothes.

1. Baste two pieces of fabric onto thin paper, leaving a space of 4 mm (approx. 3/16 inch) between the fabrics.

① 4 mm (approx. 3/16 inch) ② Paper ③ Basting stitches

2. Select [icon: 2-11] or [icon: 2-12].

Memo For details on each stitch, refer to the “STITCH SETTING CHART” at the end of this manual.

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3 Attach presser foot “J”. Align the center of the presser foot with the middle of the space between the fabrics and begin sewing.

① Basting stitches

Memo Use a thick thread.

4 When sewing is finished, gently tear the paper away.

Tape or Elastic Attaching

1 Select a straight stitch and attach presser foot “J”.

2 Set the stitch length to 4.0 mm (approx. 3/16 inch), and loosen the upper thread tension to 2.0 (See pages 42 through 43).

Memo Be sure that neither automatic reinforcement nor automatic thread cutting is selected.

3 Sew two rows of straight stitches on the right side of the fabric, then pull the bobbin thread to create the necessary gather.

Memo Before sewing the straight stitch, rotate the handwheel and pull up the bobbin thread. Holding the top and bobbin thread, pull a length of thread out from the rear of the machine. (Be sure that the presser foot is raised.)

4 Place the tape over the gather, and hold it in place with basting pins.

① Tape

5 Select or .

Memo For details on each stitch, refer to the “STITCH SETTING CHART” at the end of this manual.

6 Sew over the tape (or elastic).

CAUTION Be sure the needle does not strike a basting pin, or any other objects, during sewing. The thread could tangle or the needle could break, causing injury.

7 Pull out the straight stitch threads.

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SEWING THE STITCHES

Heirloom

■ Hemstitching (1) (Daisy Stitch)

Use for sewing tablecloths, decorative hems, and decorative stitching on shirt fronts.

Memo Use a light to medium weight homespun fabric with a little stiffness.

1 Insert a type 130/705H, size 100/16 Wing needle.

CAUTION

• The “Automatic Threading” button cannot be used. Thread the wing needle by hand, from front to back. Using the “Automatic Threading” button may result in damage to the machine.
• A more attractive finish can be obtained if you use a “130/705H Wing” needle when sewing these patterns. If using a wing needle and the stitch width has been set manually, check that the needle will not touch the presser foot by carefully rotating the handwheel before starting sewing.

2 Select a stitch and attach presser foot “N”.

• Select any stitch between 3-01 and 3-25.

Memo

• For details on each stitch, refer to the “STITCH SETTING CHART” at the end of this manual.

3 Start sewing. Example: Illustration of finished product

■ Hemstitching (2) (Drawn Work)

1 Pull out several threads from one area on a piece of fabric to open the area.

• Pull out 5 or 6 threads to leave a 3 mm (approx. 1/8 inch) area open.

Memo Loosely woven fabrics work best for this.

2 Select [icon of stitch width setting showing 3-04].

Memo For details on each stitch, refer to the “STITCH SETTING CHART” at the end of this manual.

3 Attach presser foot “N”. With the right side of the fabric facing up, sew one edge of the open area.

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4 Press [icon] to create a mirror image of the stitch.

5 Sew the opposite side to keep the stitch symmetrical.

■ Hemstitching (3)

1 Pull out several threads from both sides of the 4 mm (approx. 3/16 inch) area which are not yet open.

• Pull out four threads, leave five threads, and then pull out four threads. The width of five threads is approximately 4 mm (approx. 3/16 inch) or less.

① Approx. 4 mm (approx. 3/16 inch) or less ② Four threads (pull out) ③ Five threads (leave)

2 Select [icon].

Memo For details on each stitch, refer to the "STITCH SETTING CHART" at the end of this manual.

3 Sew the decorative stitch in the center of the five threads created above.

Memo A wing needle can be used for Hemstitching (3).

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One-step Buttonholes

With one-step buttonholes, you can make buttonholes appropriate to the size of your button.

\begin{tabular}{|l|l|c|p{4cm}|c|c|c|c|c|} \hline \textbf{Stitch} & \textbf{Stitch name} & \textbf{Presser foot} & \textbf{Applications} & \multicolumn{2}{c|}{\textbf{Stitch width [mm (inch.)]}} & \multicolumn{2}{c|}{\textbf{Stitch length [mm (inch.)]}} & \textbf{Twin needle} \ \cline{5-8} & & & & \textbf{Auto.} & \textbf{Manual} & \textbf{Auto.} & \textbf{Manual} & \ \hline 4-01 & Narrow rounded buttonhole & A & Buttonhole on light to medium weight fabrics & 5.0 (3/16) & 3.0 - 5.0 (1/8 - 3/16) & 0.4 (1/64) & 0.2 - 1.0 (1/64 - 1/16) & NO \ \hline 4-02 & Wide round ended buttonhole & A & Buttonholes with extra space for larger buttons & 5.5 (7/32) & 3.5 - 5.5 (1/8 - 7/32) & 0.4 (1/64) & 0.2 - 1.0 (1/64 - 1/16) & NO \ \hline 4-03 & Tapered round ended buttonhole & A & Reinforced waist tapered buttonholes & 5.0 (3/16) & 3.0 - 5.0 (1/8 - 3/16) & 0.4 (1/64) & 0.2 - 1.0 (1/64 - 1/16) & NO \ \hline 4-04 & Round ended buttonhole & A & Buttonholes with vertical bar tack in heavyweight fabrics & 5.0 (3/16) & 3.0 - 5.0 (1/8 - 3/16) & 0.4 (1/64) & 0.2 - 1.0 (1/64 - 1/16) & NO \ \hline 4-05 & Round ended buttonhole & A & Buttonholes with bar tack & 5.0 (3/16) & 3.0 - 5.0 (1/8 - 3/16) & 0.4 (1/64) & 0.2 - 1.0 (1/64 - 1/16) & NO \ \hline 4-06 & Round double ended buttonhole & A & Buttonholes for fine, medium to heavyweight fabrics & 5.0 (3/16) & 3.0 - 5.0 (1/8 - 3/16) & 0.4 (1/64) & 0.2 - 1.0 (1/64 - 1/16) & NO \ \hline 4-07 & Narrow squared buttonhole & A & Buttonholes for light to medium weight fabrics & 5.0 (3/16) & 3.0 - 5.0 (1/8 - 3/16) & 0.4 (1/64) & 0.2 - 1.0 (1/64 - 1/16) & NO \ \hline 4-08 & Wide squared buttonhole & A & Buttonholes with extra space for larger decorative buttons & 5.5 (7/32) & 3.5 - 5.5 (1/8 - 7/32) & 0.4 (1/64) & 0.2 - 1.0 (1/64 - 1/16) & NO \ \hline 4-09 & Squared buttonhole & A & Heavy-duty buttonholes with vertical bar tacks & 5.0 (7/32) & 3.0 - 5.0 (1/8 - 3/16) & 0.4 (1/64) & 0.2 - 1.0 (1/64 - 1/16) & NO \ \hline 4-10 & Stretch buttonhole & A & Buttonholes for stretch or woven fabrics & 6.0 (15/64) & 3.0 - 6.0 (1/8 - 15/64) & 1.0 (1/16) & 0.5 - 2.0 (1/32 - 1/16) & NO \ \hline 4-11 & Heirloom buttonhole & A & Buttonholes for heirloom and stretch fabrics & 6.0 (15/64) & 3.0 - 6.0 (1/8 - 15/64) & 1.5 (1/16) & 1.0 - 3.0 (1/1 - 1/8) & NO \ \hline 4-12 & Bound buttonhole & A & The first step in making bound buttonholes & 5.0 (3/16) & 0.0 - 6.0 (0 - 15/64) & 2.0 (1/16) & 0.2 - 4.0 (1/64 - 3/16) & NO \ \hline 4-13 & Keyhole buttonhole & A & Buttonholes in heavyweight or thick fabrics for larger flat buttons & 7.0 (1/4) & 3.0 - 7.0 (1/8 - 1/4) & 0.5 (1/32) & 0.3 - 1.0 (1/64 - 1/16) & NO \ \hline 4-14 & Tapered keyhole buttonhole & A & Buttonholes in medium to heavy weight fabrics for larger flat buttons & 7.0 (1/4) & 3.0 - 7.0 (1/8 - 1/4) & 0.5 (1/32) & 0.3 - 1.0 (1/64 - 1/16) & NO \ \hline 4-15 & Keyhole buttonhole & A & Buttonholes with vertical bar tack for reinforcement in heavyweight or thick fabrics & 7.0 (1/4) & 3.0 - 7.0 (1/8 - 1/4) & 0.5 (1/32) & 0.3 - 1.0 (1/64 - 1/16) & NO \ \hline \end{tabular}

SEWING THE STITCHES

One-step buttonholes are sewn from the front of the presser foot to the back, as shown below.

① Reinforcement stitching

1 Select a buttonhole stitch, and attach buttonhole foot “A”.

2 Mark the position and length of the buttonhole on the fabric.

Memo The maximum buttonhole length is about 28 mm (approx. 1-1/16 inches) (diameter + thickness of the button).

3 Pull out the button holder plate on the presser foot, and insert the button that will be put through the buttonhole. Then tighten the button holder plate around the button.

① Button holder plate

Memo The size of the buttonhole is decided by the button holder plate holding the button.

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SEWING THE STITCHES

4 Align the presser foot with the mark on the fabric, and lower the presser foot.

① Mark on the fabric ② Marks on the presser foot

Note

• Pass the thread underneath the presser foot.
• Slide the outside frame of the buttonhole foot backward as far as possible as shown in the illustration, making sure that there is no gap behind the part of the foot marked "A". If the buttonhole foot is not slid back as far as possible, the buttonhole will not be sewn at the correct size.

5 Lower the buttonhole lever so that it is positioned behind the metal bracket on the buttonhole foot.

① Buttonhole lever

① Metal bracket

6 Gently hold the end of the upper thread, and then start sewing.

• Feed the fabric carefully by hand while the buttonhole is sewn.

→ Once sewing is completed, the machine automatically sews reinforcement stitches, and then stops.

Memo If automatic thread cutting is turned on before you start sewing, both threads are automatically cut after the reinforcement stitches are sewn. If the fabric does not feed (for example, because it is too thick), increase the stitch length setting.

7 Insert a pin along the inside of one of the bar tacks, and then insert the seam ripper into the center of the buttonhole and cut towards the pin.

① Basting pin ② Seam ripper

CAUTION When using the seam ripper to open the buttonhole, do not put your hand or finger in the path of the ripper. The ripper may slip and cause injury.

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SEWING THE STITCHES

Memo For keyhole buttonholes, use the eyelet punch to make a hole in the rounded end of the buttonhole. Then insert a pin along the inside of one of the bar tacks, insert a seam ripper into the hole made with the eyelet punch, and cut towards the pin.

① Eyelet punch ② Basting pin

■ Sewing Stretch Fabrics

When sewing on stretch fabric with 4-10 or 4-11, sew the buttonhole stitches over a gimp thread.

1 Hook the gimp thread onto the back of presser foot “A”. Insert the ends into the grooves at the front of the presser foot, and then temporarily tie them there.

① Upper thread

2 Lower the presser foot and start sewing.

Memo Set the width of the satin stitches to the width of the gimp thread, and set the buttonhole width to be 2-3 times the width of the gimp thread.

3 Once sewing is completed, gently pull the gimp thread to remove any slack, and trim off any excess.

Memo After using the seam ripper to cut open the threads over the buttonhole, trim off the threads.

■ Odd Shaped Buttons/Buttons that do not Fit into the Button Holder Plate

Use the markings on the presser foot scale to set the size of the buttonhole. One mark on the presser foot scale equals 5 mm (approx. 3/16 inch). Add the button diameter and thickness together, and then set the plate at the calculated value.

① Presser foot scale ② Button holder plate ③ Completed measurement of diameter + thickness ④ 5 mm (approx. 3/16 inch)

Memo For example, for a button with a diameter of 15 mm (approx. 9/16 inch) and a thickness of 10 mm (approx. 3/8 inch), the scale should be set at 25 mm (approx. 1 inch).

① 10 mm (approx. 3/8 inch) ② 15 mm (approx. 9/16 inch)

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Four-step Buttonholes

You can sew 4-step buttonholes using the following 4 stitches together. You can sew any desired length for the buttonhole when using 4-step buttonholes. 4-step buttonholes are a good option when attaching oversize buttons.

Note
When changing the stitch settings for the left side of the buttonhole, make sure that all setting should be changed to match.

Four-step buttonholes are sewn as shown below.

1. Mark the position and length of the buttonhole on the fabric.

2. Attach monogramming foot “N”, and select stitch 4-16 to sew the left side of the buttonhole.

SEWING THE STITCHES

3 Press the “Start/Stop” button to start sewing.

4 Sew the desired length for the buttonhole and press the “Start/Stop” button again.

5 Select stitch 4-17 to sew the bar tack and press the “Start/Stop” button. → The machine will automatically stop after sewing the bar tack.

6 Select stitch 4-18 to sew the right side of the buttonhole, and press the “Start/Stop” button to begin sewing.

7 Sew the right side of the buttonhole and press the “Start/Stop” button again.

• Sew the right side of the buttonhole the same length as the left.

8 Select stitch 4-19 to sew the bar tack and then press the “Start/Stop” button. → The machine will automatically sew off the bar tack tie and stop when the bar tack is complete.

9 Raise the presser foot and remove the fabric.

10 Refer to page 82 to open the buttonhole.

3 Utility Stitches

85

Darning

Use darning stitches for mending and other applications.

Darning is performed by sewing from the front of the presser foot to the back as shown below.

① Reinforcement stitches

1. Select a stitch, and attach buttonhole foot “A”.

2. Set the scale to the desired length of the darning.

① Presser foot scale
② Completed length measurement
③ Width 7 mm (approx. 1/4 inch)
④ 5 mm (approx. 3/16 inch)

Memo
The maximum length for darning is 28 mm (approx. 1-1/16 inches).

3. Check that the needle drops at the desired position and lower the presser foot, making sure the upper thread passes underneath the buttonhole foot.

Note

• Pass the thread underneath the presser foot.
• Set the presser foot so that there is no gap behind the section marked with an “A” (the shaded area in the illustration below). If there is a gap, the size of the darning will not be correct.

SEWING THE STITCHES

4 Lower the buttonhole lever so that it is positioned behind the metal bracket on the buttonhole foot.

① Buttonhole lever

① Metal bracket

5 Gently hold the end of the upper thread, and then press the “Start/Stop” button to start the machine.

→ Once sewing is completed, the machine automatically sews reinforcement stitches, and then stops.

Memo If automatic thread cutting is turned on before you start sewing, both threads are automatically cut after the reinforcement stitches are sewn. If the fabric does not feed (for example, because it is too thick), increase the stitch length setting.

3 Utility Stitches

87

Bar Tacks

Use bar tacks to reinforce areas that will be subject to strain, such as pocket corners.

1. Select 4-22.

2. Attach buttonhole foot “A” and set the scale to the length of the bar tack you wish to sew.

① Presser foot scale
② Completed length measurement
③ 5 mm (approx. 3/16 inch)

Memo
Bar tacks can be between 5 mm (approx. 3/16 inch) and 28 mm (approx. 1-1/16 inches).
Bar tacks are usually between 5 mm (approx. 3/16 inch) and 10 mm (approx. 3/8 inch).

3. Set the fabric so that the pocket moves towards you during sewing.

Note

• Pass the thread underneath the presser foot.
• Slide the outside frame of the buttonhole foot backward as far as possible as shown in the illustration, making sure that there is no gap behind the part of the foot marked “A”. If the buttonhole foot is not slid back as far as possible, the bar tack will not be sewn to the correct size.

4. Check the first needle drop point and lower the presser foot.

① 2 mm (approx. 1/16 inch)

SEWING THE STITCHES

5 Lower the buttonhole lever so that it is positioned behind the metal bracket on the buttonhole foot.

① Metal bracket

6 Gently hold the end of the upper thread and begin sewing.

→ When sewing is completed, the machine will sew reinforcement stitches and stop automatically.

■ Bar Tacks on Thick Fabrics Place a piece of folded fabric or cardboard beside the fabric being sewn to level the buttonhole foot and allow for easier feeding.

① Presser foot ② Thick paper

Memo If automatic thread cutting is turned on before you start sewing, both threads are automatically cut after the reinforcement stitches are sewn. If the fabric does not feed (for example, because it is too thick), increase the stitch length setting.

3 Utility Stitches

89

Button Sewing

Buttons can be sewn on using the machine.
Buttons with 2 or 4 holes can be attached.

Note

• Do not use the automatic thread cutting function when sewing buttons. Otherwise, you will lose the thread ends.

1. Select 4-23.
2. Raise the presser foot and detach the flat bed table attachment.
3. Lower the feed dog position switch to ▼▼ to lower the feed dogs.

① Feed dog position switch

4. Attach button sewing foot “M”, slide the button along the metal plate and into the presser foot, and lower the presser foot.

① Button
② Metal plate

5. Turn the handwheel to check that the needle goes into each hole correctly.

   • If the needle does not reach the holes on the left side, adjust the stitch width.
   • To attach the button more securely, repeat the process.

6. Gently hold the end of the upper thread and start sewing. → The machine stops automatically when sewing is finished.

CAUTION

Make sure the needle does not strike the button during sewing. The needle may break and cause injury.

7. From the wrong side of the fabric, pull the end of the bobbin thread to pull the upper thread through to the wrong side of the fabric. Tie the two thread ends together and cut the threads.

SEWING THE STITCHES

■ Attaching 4 Hole Buttons Sew the two holes closest to you. Then raise the presser foot and move the fabric so that the needle goes into the next two holes, and sew them in the same way.

■ Attaching a Shank to the Button

1 Pull the shank lever toward you before sewing.

① Shank lever

2 Pull the two ends of the upper thread between the button and the fabric, wind them around the shank, and then tie them firmly together.

3 Tie the ends of the bobbin thread from the beginning and end of sewing together on the wrong side of the fabric.

Note

• When sewing is completed, be sure to return the feed dog position switch to its original position.

① Feed dog position switch

3 Utility Stitches

91

Eyelet

Use this stitch for making belt holes and other similar applications.

1. Select 4-24 or 4-25.
2. Use – + in either the stitch width display or the stitch length display to choose the size of the eyelet.

(Actual

① Large 7 mm (approx. 1/4 inch)
② Medium 6 mm (approx. 15/64 inch)
③ Small 5 mm (approx. 3/16 inch)

Note
Only one size is available for 4-25.

3. Attach monogramming foot “N”, then turn the handwheel to check the needle drop position.

① Needle drop position

4. Lower the presser foot and start sewing.
   → When sewing is finished, the machine sews reinforcement stitches and stops automatically.

Note
If the stitch pattern comes out poorly, make adjustments (see page 103).

5. Use the eyelet punch to make a hole in the center of the stitching.

SEWING THE STITCHES

Multi-directional Sewing

(Straight Stitch and Zigzag Stitch)

Use these stitch patterns to attach patches or emblems to pant legs, shirt sleeves, etc.

1 Remove the flat bed attachment to create the free arm function.

Memo Pass the free arm through a tubular piece of fabric, and then sew in the order shown in the illustration.

2 Select and attach monogramming foot “N”.

Memo For details on each stitch, refer to the “STITCH SETTING CHART” at the end of this manual.

3 Set the needle in the fabric at the sewing start point, and sew seam “1” as shown.

① Start Point

4 Select and sew seam “2” as shown.

• The fabric will move sideways, so guide the fabric by hand to keep sewing straight.

5 Select and sew seam “3” as shown.

→ The fabric feeds forward while stitching backward.

6 Select and sew seam “4” as shown.

→ The seam will be connected to the starting point of seam 1.

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SEWING THE STITCHES

Zipper Insertion

■ Centered Zipper

Use for bags and other such applications.

1 Select 1-C3 .

Memo

• For details on each stitch, refer to the “STITCH SETTING CHART” at the end of this manual.

Note

• Make sure you sew using the middle needle position.

2 Attach presser foot “J” and sew straight stitches up to the zipper opening. Change to a basting stitch (see page 56) and sew to the top of the fabric.

① Basting stitches ② Reverse stitches ③ End of zipper opening ④ Wrong side

3 Press the seam allowance open and attach the zipper with a basting stitch in the middle of each side of the zipper tape.

① Basting stitches ② Zipper ③ Wrong side

4 Remove presser foot “J”. Align the right side of the pin in zipper foot “I” with the presser foot holder, and attach the zipper foot.

① Right ② Left ③ Needle drop position

CAUTION

• When using zipper foot “I”, make sure the straight stitch, middle needle position is selected. Turn the handwheel to make sure the needle does not strike the presser foot. If another stitch is selected, the needle will strike the presser foot, causing the needle to break and possibly causing injury.

5 Topstitch 7 to 10 mm (approx. 1/4 to 3/8 inch) from the seamed edge of the fabric, then remove the basting.

94

SEWING THE STITCHES

CAUTION Make sure the needle does not strike the zipper during sewing. If the needle strikes the zipper, the needle may break, leading to injury.

■ Inserting a Side Zipper Use for side zippers in skirts or dresses.

1 Select 1-03 .

Note

• Make sure you sew using the middle needle position.

2 Attach presser foot “J” and sew straight stitches up to the zipper opening. Change to a basting stitch and sew to the top of the fabric.

① Reverse stitches ② Wrong side of fabric ③ Basting stitches ④ End of zipper opening

3 Press the seam allowance open and align the folded hem along the teeth of the zipper, while maintaining 3 mm (approx. 1/8 inch) of sewing space.

① Zipper pull tab ② Wrong side of fabric ③ Zipper teeth ④ End of zipper opening ⑤ 3 mm (approx. 1/8 inch)

4 Remove presser foot “J”.

5 Align the right side of the pin in zipper foot “J” with the presser foot holder, and attach the presser foot.

① Right Left ③ Needle drop position

CAUTION When using zipper foot “J”, make sure the straight stitch, middle needle position is selected. Turn the handwheel to make sure the needle does not strike the presser foot. If another stitch is selected, the needle will strike the presser foot, causing the needle to break and possibly causing injury.

95

SEWING THE STITCHES

6 Set the presser foot in the 3 mm (approx. 1/8 inch) margin.

7 Starting from the end of the zipper opening, sew to a point about 50 mm (approx. 2 inches) from the edge of the fabric, then stop the machine.

8 Pull down the zipper slider, then continue sewing to the edge of the fabric.

① 50 mm (approx. 2 inches) ② 3 mm (approx. 1/8 inch)

CAUTION Make sure the needle does not strike the zipper during sewing. If the needle strikes the zipper, the needle may break, leading to injury.

9 Close the zipper, turn the fabric over, and sew a basting stitch.

① Front of the skirt (wrong side of fabric) ② Basting stitches ③ Front of the skirt (right side of fabric) ④ Back of the skirt (right side of fabric)

10 Remove the presser foot, and reattach it so that the left side of the pin is attached to the presser foot holder.

• When sewing the left side of the zipper, the needle should drop on the right side of the presser foot. When sewing the right side of the zipper, the needle should drop on the left side of the presser foot.

① Right ② Left ③ Needle drop position

11 Set the fabric so that the left edge of the presser foot touches the edge of the zipper teeth.

12 Sew reverse stitches at the top of the zipper, then continue sewing.

13 Stop sewing about 50 mm (approx. 2 inches) from the edge of the fabric, leave the needle in the fabric, and remove the basting stitches.

14 Open the zipper and sew the rest of the seam.

① Basting stitches ② 7 to 10 mm (approx. 1/4 inch to 3/8 inch) ③ Reverse stitches ④ 50 mm (approx. 2 inches)

96