Brother PR600 owner's manual: 7 Appendix

Published by Brother · pages 174–190 of 229 · Original PDF

17 discussions about the Brother PR600

All 9 parts of the owner's manual

7 Appendix

This chapter provides descriptions of techniques for sewing applications, pointers for creating beautiful embroidery, and details on maintenance procedures and corrective measures that should be taken when a problem occurs.

  • Appliqué Sewing ........ 156 Sewing appliqué patterns / 156 Using a frame pattern to create appliqués (1) / 157 Using a frame pattern to create appliqués (2) / 158

  • Helpful Tips for the Operation of PR-600 ........ 160 Checking the thread tension of built-in patterns / 160 Sewing a pattern aligned with a mark on the fabric / 161 Color thread table / 163 Colors of Tajima (.dst) embroidery data / 163

  • Creating Beautiful Embroidery ........ 164 Threads / 164 Stabilizers (Backing) / 165 Hooping Techniques / 166 Fabric/stabilizer compatibility chart / 167

OPTIONAL ACCESSORIES

  • Attaching an optional embroidery frame for industrial embroidery machines ........ 168

  • Using the Optional Cap Frame ........ 169 Cap frame and its accessories / 169 Preparing to use the cap frame / 170 Attaching the cap frame / 173 Installing the embroidery frame holder / 176

  • Maintenance ........ 183 Cleaning the LCD / 183 Cleaning the machine surface / 183 Cleaning the hook / 183 Cleaning around the needle plate / 184 Cleaning the bobbin case / 185 Oiling the machine / 186 Cleaning the magnetic head of the floppy disk drive / 188

  • Troubleshooting ........ 189 On-screen troubleshooting / 189 Troubleshooting / 190 Error messages / 198 If the LCD cannot be read / 204 If the machine does not respond when a key is pressed / 204

  • Specifications ........ 206 Embroidery machine specifications / 206

  • Index ........ 207

Appendix

Appliqué Sewing

This section describes the procedure for sewing appliqués.

Sewing appliqué patterns

Some of the built-in embroidery patterns can be used for sewing appliqués. Follow the procedures described below to sew appliqués using the patterns with “Appliqué Material”, “Appliqué Position” or “Appliqué” in the region display at the top of the thread color sequence display. *Depending on the thread color display setting, the display may appear as [icon], [icon] or [icon].

Figure from the manual

■ Procedure for sewing appliqués

  1. Place stabilizer on the back of the appliqué fabric.

  2. Frame the fabric for the appliqué (from step 1) in the embroidery frame, and then sew an “Appliqué Material” pattern. The line that indicates where the appliqué will be cut out is sewn, and then the machine stops.

Figure from the manual

  1. Remove the appliqué fabric from the embroidery frame, and then carefully cut along the sewn cutline.

Figure from the manual

  • If the appliqué is cut out along the inside of the sewn cutline, the appliqué may not be correctly attached to the fabric. Therefore, carefully cut out the appliqué along the sewn cutline. If this step is not performed carefully, the appliqué will not be cleanly finished. In addition, carefully remove any excess threads.
  1. Frame the base fabric in the embroidery frame, and then sew an “Appliqué Position” pattern. The appliqué position is sewn, and then the machine stops.

Figure from the manual

156

Figure from the manual

Figure from the manual

5 Lightly apply fabric glue or spray adhesive to the back of the appliqué piece that was cut out, and then attach the appliqué piece to the base fabric at the position sewn using the “Appliqué Position” pattern in step 4.

Figure from the manual

  • If an iron-on stabilizer is used to attach the appliqué piece to the base fabric, iron the pieces together without removing the base fabric from the embroidery frame.

6 After attaching the appliqué piece, sew an “Appliqué” pattern. The appliqué is finished.

Figure from the manual

  • Depending on the pattern, an “Appliqué” pattern may not be available. In this case, sew the appliqué using thread in the color of a part of the embroidery.

7 Finish sewing the embroidery.

Figure from the manual

Using a frame pattern to create appliqués (1)

Appliqués can be created by sewing two frame patterns of the same size and shape—one sewn with straight stitches and the other sewn with satin stitches.

Figure from the manual

1 Select a frame pattern sewn with straight stitches to embroider onto the fabric for the appliqué. Carefully cut outside of the stitching.

Figure from the manual

2 Embroider the same pattern on the base fabric.

Figure from the manual

Appliqué Sewing 157

Appendix

3 Lightly apply fabric glue or spray adhesive to the back of the appliqué piece that was cut out in step 1, and then attach the appliqué piece to the base fabric.

Figure from the manual

4 Select the satin-stitched frame pattern with the same shape to embroider the appliqué attached in step 3.

Figure from the manual

Figure from the manual

① Appliqué

Note

  • If the size or sewing position of the straight-stitched frame pattern is changed, be sure to change the size or sewing position of the satin-stitched frame pattern in the same way.

Using a frame pattern to create appliqués (2)

There is another way of sewing appliqués. With this method, there is no need to change the fabric in the embroidery frame. The appliqué can be created by sewing two frame patterns of the same size and shape—one sewn with straight stitches and the other sewn with satin stitches.

1 Select a frame pattern sewn with straight stitches to embroider onto the base fabric.

Figure from the manual

Figure from the manual

2 Place the appliqué fabric over the embroidery sewn in step 1. Make sure that the area surrounded by the stitching is not larger than the area of the appliqué fabric.

Figure from the manual

158

3 Embroider over the appliqué fabric using the same frame pattern.

Figure from the manual

• Be sure to stop the machine before the cross at the center is sewn.

4 Remove the embroidery frame from the machine, and then cut off the excess appliqué fabric along the outside of the stitching.

Figure from the manual

Note

  • Leave the fabric in the embroidery frame when cutting off the excess appliqué fabric. In addition, do not apply extreme pressure to the framed fabric, otherwise the fabric could become loose.

5 Select the satin-stitched frame pattern with the same shape.

Figure from the manual

Note

  • If the size or sewing position of the straight-stitched frame pattern is changed, be sure to change the size or sewing position of the satin-stitched frame pattern in the same way.

6 Attach the embroidery frame removed in step 4, and then finish embroidering the appliqué.

Figure from the manual

7

Appliqué Sewing 159

Figure from the manual

Appendix

Helpful Tips for the Operation of PR-600

This section provides descriptions to operations useful in the operation of this machine.

Checking the thread tension of built-in patterns

One pattern on the last page of the embroidery patterns can be used to check the thread tension. We will sew this pattern to check the thread tension.

Figure from the manual

1 Touch .

Figure from the manual

2 Touch 1 times, and then touch .

Figure from the manual

3 Touch SET.

Figure from the manual

4 Touch EDIT END.

Figure from the manual

5 Touch SEWING.

Figure from the manual

160

6 Touch (unlock key), and then press the start/stop key to begin embroidering.

Figure from the manual

7 Correct thread tension. From the wrong side of the fabric, the bobbin thread should be about one third of the stitch width.

Figure from the manual

Note

  • If adjustment is necessary, refer to instructions on page 44 or 83/84.

Sewing a pattern aligned with a mark on the fabric

By specifying the beginning of stitching and the end of stitching, the exact position of the pattern can be checked. For example, when sewing text along a line in the fabric pattern, the beginning of the stitching can be set in the lower-left corner so that the position can be checked, and then the beginning of stitching can be reset. Next, the beginning of stitching can be set in the lower-right corner to check the position. The straight line connecting the first point and the second point is the baseline for the text. If the baseline that the text follows leaves the fabric pattern, the embroidering position can be adjusted.

1 Touch in the embroidering settings screen.

Figure from the manual

2 Set the beginning of stitching in the lower-left corner.

Figure from the manual

The frame moves so that the needle drop point aligns with the beginning of stitching.

Helpful Tips for the Operation of PR-600 161

Figure from the manual

Appendix

3 With a fabric marker, mark this point on the fabric.

Figure from the manual

4 Set the beginning of stitching in the lower-right corner.

Figure from the manual

► The frame moves so that the needle drop point aligns with the beginning of stitching.

5 With a fabric marker, mark this point on the fabric.

Figure from the manual

6 Remove the embroidery frame from the machine, and then connect these two points to check the embroidering position.

  • If the baseline is misaligned or intersects another line, reframe the fabric in the embroidery frame or adjust the position of the pattern.

162

Figure from the manual

Color thread table

Additional explanations of the machine’s built-in color thread table and the custom thread table are provided below.

Normally, the thread colors in the thread color sequence display and in the pattern display area are displayed in the colors of the machine's built-in color thread table. The thread color numbers with these thread colors are displayed with the thread color number (or the nearest number) for the brand specified on the second page of the settings screen. Therefore, the finished embroidery colors may have a slightly different tinge.

However, since the custom thread table specified on the fourth page of the settings screen are created by specifying thread colors by the thread color numbers and color names from individual brands in the machine’s built-in color library, the thread table is displayed with those original thread colors.

If “CUSTOM THREAD TABLE” is selected and “DISPLAY EXPANDED THREAD COLOR” is set to “ON”, pattern colors changed using Custom Thread can be previewed with colors nearest to the actual embroidered thread colors.

Create color thread tables from the colors of threads that you have and use them to display the patterns in your own thread colors.

Normal thread color display Figure from the manual Thread color display using a custom thread Figure from the manual

Colors of Tajima (.dst) embroidery data

Tajima data (.dst) does not contain pattern color information. The data is created by combining only shapes.

For example, the following embroidery data appears as shown below in the Tajima format (.dst)

Figure from the manual

In order for the parts of the pattern to be differentiated when Tajima data is used with this machine, the pattern is displayed with colors automatically applied in the default thread color sequence. Since the thread colors are applied according to the sewing order of the parts, regardless of the design of the pattern, colors may be applied that seem unusual for the design, for example, an orange-colored fruit may be displayed in blue.

When using Tajima data, be sure to preview the sewn image on the screen and change the colors from the change thread color screen.

Appendix

Creating Beautiful Embroidery

The various precautions concerning the thread, embroidery frames and stabilizers (backings) that must be observed in order to create beautiful embroidery are described below.

Threads

Embroidery thread can be costly, therefore caring for it should be a priority. No matter how well a thread is manufactured, it must be appropriately stored if it is to sew properly. This is especially true when one considers the time that lapses between delivery to the thread user and the moment the thread is actually used on the embroidery machine. It is important that embroidery threads be stored in an environment that is free of damaging agents such as excessive heat, light or moisture.

Embroidery threads are best stored in an area that is as clean and dust-free as possible. It is also important that the storage area be free of smoke, fumes and gases. Certain gases may cause the thread to yellow. These fumes originate from such appliances as gas heaters or from gas or diesel engines.

Direct sunlight is also extremely destructive for embroidery threads. Boxes of thread should not be left open and exposed to direct sunlight. If possible, skylights and windows should be diffused. The best type of lighting for embroidery thread is tungsten-filament or fluorescent tubes. It is important to remember that prolonged exposure to these harmful sources may also cause the colors of cardboard boxes and other objects to fade.

Temperature and humidity also pose a threat to embroidery threads. The ideal conditions are between 59 °F and 77 °F (or 15 °C and 25 °C). Humidity should be between 40% and 60%. These conditions should be kept as constant as possible in order to prevent mildew from forming. Excessive temperatures can also cause lubrication problems that ultimately result in thread breaks. Damp conditions can affect paper bobbins as the cardboard will swell and the thread can become oversized. It is also important to realize that even if the overall storage conditions are good, there may be "spot problems" where a thread is exposed to a heat source or bright lights. Ensuring that thread does not become damaged requires that stock be frequently rotated and that threads are not left in the same place for an extremely long time.

Choice of thread is a major factor in improving production time. The thread run ability, strength, consistency and weight all affect output. These qualities determine how well the machine will sew and the number of thread breaks during sewing.

Thread breaks have an important influence on production. Each thread break reduces output by at least 0.07% a day (7.5 hours), assuming that it takes 20 seconds to rethread a needle. For every reduction of 14 thread breaks per a day, output can be improved by more than 1.0 %.

164

Stabilizers (Backing)

Backing and topping serve to stabilize and support the product being embroidered so the stitches can be sewn with the least amount of interference or instability. They serve as stabilizers for your embroidery work. Without the proper type of stabilizer, the fabric may move too much within the embroidery frame causing poor alignment of the embroidery. At times, topping will be required in order to manage fabrics with a pile-like surface, such as towels, corduroy and pique knit. There are many types of backing and toppings with various weights for the various fabrics that you may be sewing.

There are four types of stabilizers (backing) that can be used in embroidery: cut-away, tear-away, water soluble and self-adhesive. In these four types, various weights, sizes and textures are available. When selecting the stabilizer type for a particular fabric, consider the design size in addition to the stitch count and stitch type used in the design.

Finally, make sure that the stabilizer is not stretched. Some backings may not stretch vertically or horizontally but may stretch diagonally. DO NOT USE THESE TYPES. This type of backing will stretch during sewing and may cause the design to shift.

  1. Polyester mesh cut-away stabilizer works extremely well with light-colored fabrics since it prevents a shadow from showing through on the front after you have trimmed away the excess. This type of backing is ideal whenever you need stability with a light and soft touch in your finished product, for example, with baby garments.
  2. Cut-away stabilizer is excellent for medium- to heavyweight knits, however it can also be used on woven material. It will hold a large number of stitches and with two or three layers can hold a tremendous amount of stitches. This type of backing is also available in black for those who want the inside of their garments to look as good as the outside. Black stabilizer is very useful on similarly colored garments of lightweight fabrics. The black backing is less likely to show through as compared to white backing.
  3. Self-adhesive (peel-and-stick) backing is used on those difficult-to-hoop fabrics. This backing is applied (with sticky side up) to the underside of the frame, enabling your fabric to "stick on" the exposed surface in the sewing areas. When the embroidery is finished, the fabric can be removed, the excess backing can be disposed of and the process repeated.
  4. Tear-away stabilizer can be used on mediumweight woven fabrics and sturdy fabrics such as canvas, poplin and denim. This stabilizer will hold many stitches especially when used in two or more layers. This type of stabilizer is made of a non-woven material that enables it to easily be torn away from the edges of your embroidery design when it is completed. This stabilizer is also available in black.
  5. Water-soluble stabilizer is useful when you need to keep the nap or pile, for example, on towels, from interfering with the placement of stitches. Fabrics such as terry cloth, corduroy, velvet and faux fur are examples of materials that have a nap or pile that can actually penetrate embroidery stitches as your machine sews. The result is an unfinished and often sloppy appearance when fibers of the fabric poke out between the finished stitches of an embroidery design. In these situations, water-soluble stabilizer is used as a topping to hold the fibers of the fabric flat so the stitches can be placed on top neatly and accurately. Water-soluble stabilizer is also used as a backing when stitching lace or other motifs where the desired result is only the stitching. This is accomplished with water-soluble stabilizer, which can easily be pulled off of the fabric after embroidering is completed and any remnants can be easily be dissolved with water. Water-soluble stabilizer is also used as a backing on towels, where you often need some stabilization, but any remnants of a formal backing must not be visible in the finished product.

Appendix

Hooping Techniques

“Use the right tool for the right job” is a statement many of us have heard throughout the years. This statement holds true even in the embroidery industry. The wrong size or type of embroidery frame may result in poor design alignment during sewing or damage the product altogether. You can take a perfectly created design and ruin the final results by simply not using the correct frame size, type or technique designed for its application.

■ Frame Basics

Tubular frames: This type of frame allows tubular fabric or pre-assembled garments to be placed around the hook assembly. It allows embroidering of the front of a garment without stitching through the back of it.

Cap frames: These are specialized embroidery frames (hoops) designed to hold caps for embroidering. They are available in a variety of styles for various machines, with two basic styles: one that allows sewing a flattened cap (for use on a flat machine) or one that allows sewing the cap in its natural curved shape (for use on a tubular machine).

Hooping fabric: The framed fabric and backing should be perfectly flat and free of wrinkles or bubbles. If there are bubbles or wrinkles that must be removed, be sure that you pull on the fabric and backing together. Pull no more than is necessary to make the fabric flat and smooth. Overstretching the fabric during this process may cause puckers around the finished design when the frame is removed. Gaps may also be generated between design parts.

Inner/outer frame positioning: There should be a slight ridge (3 mm (1/8 inch)) of fabric and backing below the outer frame on the back side. Tighten the screw only if the inner frame feels loose. Avoid overtightening the screw as this will cause puckers in the fabric and may “strip” the screw.

166

Fabric/stabilizer compatibility chart

Fabric/Garment No. of Backing Pieces No. of Topping Pieces Comments
Terry cloth 1 tear-away 1 water-soluble Increase density and/or column width. Fine details and small lettering tend to get caught in the terry loops.
Satin jacket Heavy lining: NoneLight or no lining: 1 tear-away None If garment slips in frame, causing alignment problems, wrap inner frame with masking tape or fabric bias tape. This provides a rough surface to grip garment and also helps minimize frame burn.
Cotton sheeting 1 tear-away None High-density or highly detailed designs may require more backing. If so, use two pieces of lightweight backing instead of one piece of heavy backing.
Denim 1 tear-away None Reduce speed if needle begins to heat up and the thread breaks.
Headwear Optional Optional Change needles more often than usual because the buckram backing dulls needles faster. A lightweight tear-away backing helps reduce thread breaks and regulates thread tension. Use a topping on corduroy or foam cap fronts.
Dress shirt (woven) 1 tear-away None High-density or highly detailed designs may require more backing. If so, use two pieces of lightweight backing instead of one piece of heavy backing.
Golf shirt 1 cut-away Optional Use topping for designs containing small lettering or a lot of detail, and also for pique knits.
Canton fleece 1 tear-away Optional Use a topping if the garment has a textured surface, such as a basketweave or pronounced twill.
Canvas 1 tear-away None Frame tightly
Corduroy 1 tear-away 1 water-soluble A higher stitch density or more understitches, as well as a topping, may be necessary to prevent stitches from sinking into the fabric.
Lingerie or silk 1 or 2 lightweight tear-away Optional Reduce sewing speed. The thread tension should be low. Use topping for designs with high detail or small lettering. For very fine fabrics, use a thinner thread. Avoid extremely narrow column stitching on letters or details; instead increase column width or use a bean stitch. Gently remove (don’t pull) backing and topping from garment.
Sweater knit 1 cut-away or adhesive tear-away 1 water-soluble Use tightly woven organza or curtain fabric in a matching color as a backing for bulky or “holey” knits.
Sweatshirt 1 cut-away or adhesive tear-away Optional Highly detailed designs may require two layers of lightweight cut-away stabilizer. Use a topping on extra-thick fabrics or with fine-detail designs.
T-shirt 1 light-weight cut-away or adhesive tear-away Optional Use a topping on designs with fine detail or small lettering. Tensions should be light. Avoid stitch-heavy designs.

Appendix

OPTIONAL ACCESSORIES

Attaching an optional embroidery frame for industrial embroidery machines

Prepare the embroidery frame holder in order to attach the embroidery frame for industrial embroidery machines. When the embroidery frame for industrial embroidery machines is attached, both the left and right arms of the embroidery frame holder moves.

1 Remove the embroidery frame. (Refer to page 45.)

2 Loosen the two thumb screws on the embroidery frame holder.

Figure from the manual

① Left arm ② Thumb screws ► The left arm of the embroidery frame holder can be moved. • Only loosen the thumb screws a maximum of 2 turns counterclockwise. Do not remove the screw.

3 Move the left arm to align the screw on the right side with the mark for the embroidery frame for industrial embroidery machines, and then tighten the thumb screws.

Figure from the manual

① Mark for embroidery frame for industrial embroidery machines ② Align the screw with the mark.

4 Using a Phillips screwdriver, loosen the two screws, and then remove them.

Figure from the manual

5 Remove the right arm, align the pins on the embroidery frame holder with the holes in the arm, as shown in the illustration, and then insert the screws removed in step 1 and tighten them.

Figure from the manual

► The embroidery frame holder is ready for the embroidery frame to be attached. Attach the embroidery frame for industrial embroidery machines in the same way that enclosed embroidery frames are attached. (Refer to page 30.)

Note • When using embroidery frames for industrial embroidery machines, THE MACHINE DOES NOT RECOGNIZE THE SEWING AREA OF THE FRAME. Be sure to use the trial sewing function to check that the pattern fits within the sewing area.

168

Using the Optional Cap Frame

By using the optional cap frame, patterns can be embroidered onto caps and hats. The procedures for using the cap frame are described below.

Note

  • Baseball (golf) caps, tulip hats and bucket hats can be embroidered with this frame.
  • This frame cannot be used with hats having a front area of 50 mm (2 inches) or less, such as sun visors and children's hats. In addition, it cannot be used with hats that have a brim longer than 80 mm (3-1/16 inches).

Cap frame and its accessories

The cap frame driver and the mounting jig are required in order to use the cap frame.

Cap frame Cap frame driver and 4 thumb screws
① Embroidering area: 50 mm (H) × 130 mm (W) (2 inches (H) × 5-1/8 inches (W))② The mark indicates the center of the embroidering area.③ Snap lock In order to attach the cap frame to the carriage, remove the embroidery frame holder, and then attach this cap frame driver to the carriage of the machine.① Insert the thumb screws into these holes and tighten the screws to secure the movable section. Use these holes when storing this cap frame driver.② Holding SpringThe cap frame is secured by the two holding Spring.
Mounting jig
Use when framing a cap in the cap frame.① HolderThe cap frame is secured by the two holders.② Mounting bracketTighten thumb screw to secure to mounting surface.

Note

  • If the cap embroidery frame is attached, the embroidery frame indicators, showing which embroidery frames can be used, appear as shown below.

Figure from the manual

Using the Optional Cap Frame 169

Figure from the manual

Figure from the manual

Appendix

Preparing to use the cap frame

■ Installing the cap frame driver

Press [icon] → OPERATIONS → [icon] → [icon] → [icon] in order to view a video of the operation on the LCD (see page 151).

Remove the embroidery frame holder from the carriage on the machine, and then install the cap frame driver. Before removing the embroidery frame holder, remove the embroidery frame. (Refer to "Removing the embroidery frame" on page 45.)

1 Loosen and then remove the two thumb screws and the embroidery frame holder.

Figure from the manual

① Thumb screws

  • The removed thumb screws remain attached to the embroidery frame holder.

Figure from the manual

① Put two thumb screws not to lose

2 Remove the two upper thumb screws of the cap frame driver, and then loosen the two lower thumb screws (4 turns).

Figure from the manual

① Upper thumb screws ② Lower thumb screws

3 Pass the machine bed through the ring of the cap frame driver.

Figure from the manual

① Machine bed

Note

  • Be careful that the cap frame driver does not hit any nearby parts, such as the presser foot.

Attach the cap frame driver to the carriage as described below in steps 4 through 6.

4 Insert the two thumb screws at the bottom of the cap frame driver into the v-cuts in the carriage, and then place the mounting plate of the cap frame driver on top of the frame-mounting plate of the carriage.

Figure from the manual

① Notch in the carriage ② Thumb screw of the cap frame driver ③ Mounting plate of the cap frame driver ④ Frame-mounting plate of the carriage

170

Figure from the manual

Figure from the manual

Figure from the manual

5 Insert the pins on the frame-mounting plate of the carriage into the holes in the mounting plate of the cap frame driver.

Figure from the manual

① Pins on the frame-mounting plate of the carriage ② Holes in the mounting plate of the cap frame driver

6 Tighten the two upper thumb screws.

Figure from the manual

7 While pushing in the cap frame driver toward the machine so that it is fully inserted, tighten the two lower thumb screws to secure the cap frame driver.

► This completes the installation of the cap frame driver.

■ Installing the needle plate spacer Attach the needle plate spacer to the needle plate.

Figure from the manual

① Needle plate spacer

Using the Optional Cap Frame 171

Figure from the manual

Text converted from the manufacturer's document. A □ marks a character that could not be read in the original. Back to the Brother PR600 discussions