Overedge stitch
This stitch is ideal for finishing edges of fabrics that tend to fray such as linens and gabardines.
Two rows of zigzag stitches are simultaneously sewn over the edge of the fabric to prevent raveling.
Press Pattern 12 on the Visual Touch Screen.
Use Overedge Foot C to keep the fabric edge flat. The wires on the foot effectively prevent the edge from puckering or rolling up.
Place the edge of the fabric next to the Black Guide on the foot and sew.
1 Overedge Foot C 2 Black Guide
Overlock stitch
This stitch is used for finishing edges of medium to heavy fabrics. This finished seam looks similar to a commercial overlocking machine.
Press Pattern 13 on the Visual Touch Screen.
Attach Overcasting Foot M. Sew, guiding the fabric edge along the Guide on the foot.
3 Overcasting Foot M 4 Guide
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Variety of overcasting stitches
Pattern 9: Multiple Zigzag Stitch (Tricot Stitch) This stitch is used to finish a raw edge of synthetics and other stretch fabrics that tend to pucker. Sew along the fabric edge leaving an enough seam allowance. After sewing, trim off the seam allowance closer to the stitches.
1 Zigzag Foot A
Pattern 10: Overcasting Stitch This stitch can be used to simultaneously seam and overcast in one step. Use this stitch when you do not need to press seams open flat.
2 Overedge Foot C
Pattern 11: Knit Stitch This stitch is recommended for sewing such fabrics as synthetic knits and stretch velour as it provides the greatest amount of elasticity and strength. Sew along the fabric edge leaving an enough seam allowance. After sewing, trim off the seam allowance closer to the stitches.
3 Zigzag Foot A
Pattern 12: Double Overedge Stitch This stitch is an excellent stitch for fabrics that tend to fray extensively such as linens and gabardines. Two rows of zigzag stitches are simultaneously sewn over the edge to insure that fabric will not ravel.
4 Overedge Foot C
Pattern 13: Overlock Stitch This stitch finishes the edges of fabric similar to a commercial overlocking machine for a professional look.
5 Overcasting Foot M
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Blind hem
Select Pattern 14 for woven fabrics or Pattern 15 for elastic fabrics. Attach Blind Hem Foot G.
NOTES:
- The stitch width of Patterns 14 and 15 can not be changed, but the needle drop position will change.
- You may change the stitch width by selecting Blind Hem in the Sewing Application.
How to fold the fabric
Fold the fabric to make a hem as shown.
1 0.4 - 0.7 cm (3/16"-1/4") 2 Overcasted Edge of Fabric 3 Wrong Side of Fabric
Position the fabric so that the Fold comes to the left side of the Black Guide. Lower the presser foot.
Adjust the position of the needle swing with the Stitch Width key so that the needle just pierces the folded edge of the fabric when the needle comes over to the left side.
4 Fold 5 Black Guide
Sew guiding the Folder along the Black Guide. For a professional looking hem, fold the fabric reducing the hem width to about 0.2 cm (1/8"). As you sew, the right hand stitch will fall off the fabric edge forming a chain stitch.
After sewing is finished, open the fabric. The seam on the Right side of the Fabric is almost invisible.
6 Right Side of the Fabric
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Changing needle drop position
Press the Adjust key.
The adjusting window will appear. Press the − key to move the needle to the right. Press the + key to move the needle to the left. Press OK key, to register any changes made to the settings.
1 OK key
2 Guide on Foot 3 Left Needle Drop Position 4 Right Needle Drop Position
Shell Tuck
Select Pattern 16.
Attach the Satin Stitch Foot F.
Fold the fabric in bias. Sew along the fold so that the needle on the right swing just clear the folded edge to form tucks.
NOTE:
- You do not need to tighten thread tension, since the machine is set at tighter tension automatically.
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Buttonholes
Variety of buttonholes
1 Sensor (Square) BH This square buttonhole is widely used on medium to heavy weight fabrics. The buttonhole size is automatically determined by placing a button in the foot.
2 Auto (Square) BH This is also a square buttonhole similar to the Sensor Square Buttonhole, but you can manually set and memorize the buttonhole size to sew buttonholes of the same size.
3 Round End BH This buttonhole is used on fine to medium weight fabrics especially for blouses and children's clothes.
4 Fine Fabric BH This buttonhole is rounded at both ends and is used on fine, delicate fabrics such as fine silk.
5 Keyhole BH The Keyhole Buttonhole is widely used on medium to heavy weight fabrics. It is also suitable for larger and thicker buttons.
6 Rounded Keyhole BH This buttonhole is used for thicker buttons on medium weight fabrics.
7
23
8
24
9
25
10
26
11
27
7 Tailored BH
This buttonhole is used for thick buttons and heavy fabrics. The bartack and rounded end have been reinforced so that this tailored-looking buttonhole is very durable.
8 Stretch BH
This buttonhole can be used on stretch fabrics. It can also be used as a decorative buttonhole.
9 Knit BH
This buttonhole is suitable for knit fabrics. It can also be used as a decorative buttonhole.
10 Antique BH
This buttonhole looks like the heirloom stitch. It has an attractive handmade appearance and makes a nice decorative buttonhole.
11 Welted BH
This stitch is used for making a Welted (bound) Buttonhole, which adds a professional look to suits and blazers. It can also be used on leather and suede.
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Sensor buttonholes
NOTES:
- Buttonholes 17 and 19 to 27 are sensor buttonholes.
- The size of a buttonhole is automatically set by placing a button in the rear of Automatic Buttonhole Foot R.
- The button holder of the foot takes a button size of 0.5 cm (3/16") to 2.5 cm (1") in diameter.
- It is sometimes necessary to change buttonhole size to match certain heavy or specific materials and threads.
- Make a test buttonhole on an extra piece of the fabric to check your settings.
- Place the button on the fabric and mark the top and bottom to determine the position of the buttonhole on the fabric.
- Use interfacing on stretch fabrics.
To sew
[1] Press the Up/Down Needle Button to raise the needle. Attach the Automatic Buttonhole Foot R snapping the Pin into the Groove of the foot holder. Raise the Presser Foot.
1 Pin 2 Groove
[2] Pull the Button Holder to the back, and place the button in it. Push it together tightly on the button.
3 Button Holder
NOTE:
- If the button is extremely thick, make a test buttonhole on an extra piece of the fabric. If it is difficult to fit the button through the test buttonhole, you can lengthen the buttonhole by pulling the Button Holder back a little. The length of the buttonhole will be increased.
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3
1
Pull down BH Lever.
4
3 2
3 Pull the Buttonhole Lever downward as far as it will go.
1 Buttonhole Lever
4 Insert the corner of the fabric under the foot. Press the Up/Down Needle Button twice.
Remove the fabric to the left to draw both threads under the foot. Place the garment under the foot, and lower the needle at the Starting Point t of the Mark. Then lower the Automatic Buttonhole Foot R.
2 Starting Point 3 Mark
4 5 6
NOTE: • Make sure there is no gap between the Slider and Spring Holder, otherwise the left and right length will be different.
4 Slider 5 Spring Holder 6 Sewing Gap
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5 Sensor BH Now sewing.
Step 1 Step 2 Step 3
Completed. Raise Presser Foot.
5 Press the Start/Stop Button to sew the buttonhole. The buttonhole will be automatically sewn in a single step.
Step 1: The machine will sew the front bartack and the left row first. Then it goes back to the starting point with straight stitch.
Step 2: The machine will sew the right row.
Step 3: The machine will sew the back bartack, and the machine will stop automatically.
To repeat buttonhole sewing To sew another buttonhole, raise the presser foot and move the fabric to where the next buttonhole is sewn, then lower the foot and start the machine.
6
6 When buttonhole sewing is finished, push the buttonhole lever upward as far as it will go.
7 10
11 7 Remove the fabric and place a pin just below the bartack at each end to prevent accidentally cutting bartacks.
Cut the opening with the Seam Ripper. Use an Eyelet Puncher to open a keyhole buttonhole.
10 Seam Ripper 11 Eyelet Puncher
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Changing buttonhole width
Press the Adjust key, the adjusting window opens.
Press the + key to increase the buttonhole width.
Press the − key to decrease the buttonhole width.
Press the OK key to register the settings.
NOTE: • The default setting is 5.0.
Changing buttonhole stitch density
Press the + key to make the buttonhole stitch density coarser.
Press the − key to make the buttonhole stitch density denser.
NOTE: • The default setting is 0.45.
Sensor BH
Pull down BH Lever
Corded buttonhole
To sew the corded buttonhole, follow the same procedure as Sensor Buttonhole; refer to the instructions on pages 58 to 60.
With Automatic Buttonhole Foot R raised, hook the filler cord on the Spur at the back of the buttonhole foot.
Bring the ends of cord toward you under the buttonhole foot clearing the front end.
Hook the ends of the filler cord into the Forks on the front of Automatic Buttonhole Foot R, to hold them tight.
1 Spur 2 Forks
Lower the needle into the garment where the buttonhole will start and lower the foot.
Press the Start/Stop Button and sew the buttonhole. Each side of the buttonhole and the bartacks will be sewn over the cord.
The machine stops automatically when finished.
Remove the fabric from the machine and cut the sewing threads only.
Pull the left end of the filler cord to tighten it. Thread the end of the cord through a darning needle, draw it to the wrong side of the fabric and cut.
NOTES:
- Set the stitch width in accordance with the thickness of the cord used.
- To cut the buttonhole opening, refer to the instructions on page 60.
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Welted buttonhole
(Bound buttonhole)
Welted Buttonhole is made by stitching a strip or patch of fabric to the buttonhole. Welted Buttonhole is particularly suited to tailored garments, but are not recommended for sheer or delicate fabrics where the patch might show through or add bulk.
1 Baste a patch to the garment fabric with the right sides together. 1 Wrong Side of Patch 2 Right Side of Garment Fabric
2 Select Pattern 27. Sew the Welted Buttonhole on both fabrics together (see pages 65-67 for the sewing procedure).
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3 Cut the buttonhole opening as illustrated then pull the patch out through the slit to the other side.
1 Wrong Side of Patch 2 Right Side of Garment Fabric 3 Right Side of Patch
4 Pull out the patch until the right side of the patch is showing. Use an iron to press both corner ends until they are squared off.
3 Right Side of Patch 4 Wrong Side of Garment Fabric
5 Fold back each side of the patch to form buttonhole lips.
1 Wrong Side of Patch 2 Right Side of Garment Fabric 3 Right Side of Patch
6 Press the both folds with an iron.
3 Right Side of Patch 4 Wrong Side of Garment Fabric
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7
7 Baste the both edges of the seam with needle and thread as shown.
2 Right Side of Garment Fabric
8
8 Fold over the length of the garment fabric, sew back and forth beside the original seam to secure flaps of the patch.
1 Wrong Side of Patch
4 Wrong Side of Garment Fabric
9
9 Fold over the end of fabric and sew back and forth three times over the triangular end.
1 Wrong Side of Patch
4 Wrong Side of Garment Fabric
2 Right Side of Garment Fabric
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10 The patch should be cut 0.7 to 1 cm (1/4"-7/16") away from the hole. The corners should be cut rounded off as shown.
3 Right Side of Patch
4 Wrong Side of Garment Fabric
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11
5
6
11 Place the Facing on the wrong side of the Garment Fabric. Mark the 4 corners with pins as shown. 5 Facing 6 Garment Fabric
12
5
6
12 Turn all the layers over and cut the buttonhole opening on the facing in the same way as step 3. Four marker pins show you the corner points on the facing. Fold back each flaps between the facing and patch. 5 Facing 6 Garment Fabric
13
5
6
13 Stitch around the opening with a needle and thread as shown. 5 Facing 6 Garment Fabric
14
6
14 Welted Buttonhole is complete. 6 Garment Fabric
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Automatic buttonhole
Select Pattern 18.
Attach the Automatic Buttonhole Foot R. Pull the Button Holder all the way out. Mark the buttonhole position on the fabric. Insert the fabric under the foot. Press the Up/Down Needle Button twice. Remove the fabric to the left to draw the needle thread through the Hole of the foot. Insert the garment under the foot, and lower the needle at the starting point. Then lower the Automatic Buttonhole Foot R.
1 Button Holder 2 Hole
NOTES:
- You do not need to pull down the Buttonhole Lever.
- If you would like to change the buttonhole width, stitch density and thread tension press the Adjust key.
- If there is a difference in stitch density between the right and left rows of the buttonhole, refer to page 117.
- If you would like to sew a buttonhole longer than the size permitted by the Automatic Buttonhole Foot R, use Satin Stitch Foot F.
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Sew up the left side stopping at the end of the Buttonhole Mark. Press the Reverse Button.
3 Buttonhole Mark 4 Reverse Button
Depress the Foot Control. The machine will automatically tack and sew down the right side of the buttonhole.
Stop the machine when you are directly opposite the Starting Point.
Press the Reverse Button.
5 Starting Point
Keep the Foot Control depressed. The machine will bartack, lock the stitches and automatically stop when the buttonhole is completed.
To make the next buttonhole, position the fabric and step down on the Foot Control.
To sew the next buttonhole at a different size press the Cancel key.
NOTES:
- The machine will sew another buttonhole identical to the first one each time you step down on the Foot Control.
- To cut the buttonhole opening, refer to the instructions on page 60.
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Darning
Darning
Memory Craft 10001 automatically darns rips and holes. Large and small holes can be mended quickly and easily with this unique stitch.
Automatic Buttonhole Foot R is used to hold the fabric securely in place while darning.
For extra support, or to strengthen the darn, pin or baste a backing fabric such as organdy under the hole.
Select Pattern 29.
Pull the Button Holder to the rear.
Place the garment under the foot. Press the Up/Down Needle Button twice. Remove the fabric to the left to draw both threads under the foot and put the fabric back under the foot.
Lower the foot. Press the Start/Stop Button, the machine will lock stitch, sew rows of darning, lock stitch and stop automatically.
Repeat sewing by turning the fabric to reinforce it.
1 Button Holder
NOTE:
- The maximum size of darning is 2 cm (3/4") long and 0.7 cm (1/4") wide.
2 Maximum Length 2cm (3/4") 3 Maximum Width 0.7 cm (1/4")
To sew a shorter darning
To sew a darning a length of less than 2 cm (3/4"), first stop the machine after sewing the Required Length, then press the Reverse Button. The Required Length has now been determined.
Now restart the machine and continue sewing until the machine stops automatically.
1 Required Length 2 Reverse Button
To sew the same size darning
Simply restart the machine to sew another darning in the same size.
To sew the next darn at a different size, press the Cancel key.
To adjust the evenness of darning
You can correct the unevenness of darning by pressing the + or - keys.
If the left corner is lower than the right side, press the - key to correct it, and vice versa.
NOTE: • The default setting is 5.0.
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Tacking
Tacking is used to reinforce pockets, crotches and belt carriers where extra strength is needed.
Select Pattern 30 and attach the Satin Stitch Foot F.
The machine will sew a tacking of 1.5 cm (9/16") long automatically.
1 1.5 cm (9/16")
NOTE:
- Press the Adjust key to manually change the stitch length and stitch width.
To sew a shorter tack
When you sew less than 1.5 cm (9/16") in length, sew to the Required Length and press the Reverse Button and the machine will memorize the Tack Length.
2 Required Length 3 Reverse Button 4 Tack Length
To sew the same size
To sew another tack in the same size, simply restart the machine and it will stop automatically when finish sewing.
To sew the next tack at a different size, press the Cancel key.
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Eyelet
The Eyelet is used for belt holes etc.
Press Pattern 31 on the Visual Touch Screen.
Attach the Satin Stitch Foot F.
Depress the Foot Control to sew. The machine will stop automatically when completed.
Open the eyelet with an awl, punch or pointed scissors.
Adjusting the shape of an Eyelet
By pressing the Adjust key, the Manual Adjusting screen will appear.
Press the $+$ or the $-$ key to adjust.
1 Shape Adjust Key (Press the $+$ key if the eyelet opens. Press the $-$ key if the eyelet overlaps.) 2 Thread Tension Adjust Key 3 Default Key When you press the Default key all function values on the screen will return to the default settings (the same settings as when you purchased the machine). 4 Cancel Key When you press the Cancel key, the adjust window will close and the setting remains unchanged. 5 OK Key When you press the OK key, the window will close and go back to the original screen with the new setting being registered.
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Satin Stitches
Press Satin Stitch Key in the Ordinary Sewing Mode to open the Satin Stitch Window.
1 2
Function Keys:
1 Needle Up/Down Key: Press the Needle Up/Down key to set the needle position up or down when stopping the machine.
2 Adjust Key: Press the Adjust key to open the Adjusting window.
3 Zigzag Width: Press the Zigzag Width $+$ or $-$ keys to change the stitch widths.
4 Stitch Length: Press the Stitch Length $+$ or $-$ keys to increase/decrease the stitch length.
5 Elongation Key: The Elongation key is used to change the elongation of decorative stitch patterns.
6 Thread Tension: Press the Thread Tension $+$ or $-$ keys to increase/decrease the thread tension.
7 Default Key: When you press the Default key, all settings in the adjusting window will return to default (the same settings as when you purchased the machine).
8 Cancel Key: When you press Cancel key, the adjusting window will close and the setting remains.
9 OK Key: Press OK key. The setting is registered and the screen returns to the previous window.
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10 Program Key: Press [icon] key to program pattern combination. When you press this key the following function keys will be displayed.
11 Cursor Keys: Press the [icons] keys to move the cursor to the right or left. Press the [icon] key to memorize the selected pattern. The pattern image on the screen will turn red when it is memorized. You can select a pattern to delete, select a position to insert another pattern.
12 Delete Key: Press the [icons] keys to move the cursor under the pattern you would like to delete. Press the [icon] key to delete the selected pattern.
13 Save File Key: You can save the program that you made with the [icon] key.
NOTE: • You can save up to 100 files.
14 Memory Check Key: Press the [icon] key to see the entire monogramming, while you are programming. After you started sewing, the key indication will change to [icon]. You can start sewing the monogram from the beginning by pressing [icon] key.
15 Vertical Mirror Key: Press [icon] key for the mirror image of the pattern.
16 Page Keys: The [icons] keys inform you that there are other pages to be displayed. Press [icon] key to view the next page. Press [icon] key to view the previous page.
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