For me it is easier to just start or end one's thread underneath a few adjacent stitches.
Now I will ask the BIG questions. When doing cross stitch do you bury your start or end of thread under a vertical or horizontal row of stitches? When doing needlepoint do you bury your start or end of thread under a vertical, horizontal or diagonal row of stitches? I know someone who goes the diagonal route because he says it is less noticeable. I tried it a few times and tend to agree with him, on the other hand the thickness of the yarn/thread used might have a lot to do with what looks best. I was using perle cotton on aida at the time. Fred
formatting link
nothing changes, nothing changes.Don't back stitch to email, just stitchit.
PAX, Tia Mary >^;;^< (RCTQ Queen of Kitties) Angels can't show their wings on earth but nothing was ever said about their whiskers! Visit my Photo albums at
Fred, WRT threads on NP. If you're doing tent/continental/basketweave - it is definitely better to have yoru threads buried horizontally or veritcally from the stitch. It is certainly easier to get the thread through on the diagonal, but it will show on the front. What happens is called a "zipper" effect - you can see the diagonal line shadowed through on the front. One of those few topics I've actually experienced being taught/discussed consistently in both judging cert classes, and master teacher classes. Recently, when Donna & I were doing demos at Woodlawn, we saw some pieces in one of the rooms that I wanted to photo just for this. Adorable little canvaswork - cute kind of funky rabbits - and there were visible lines of diagonal shadow right across the main part of the piece - and we were several feet back. With some stitches, just doesn't matter - it's find a place you can weave under, around, etc. But, nothing to make bumps on the front. I teach a lot of using waste knots (that get stitched over during the work) - for starting on canvas - and those are in the horizontal or vertical direction, and sometimes "away" knots - with a thread at least
2.5-3 needle-lengths - out to a margin - those will then later be re-threaded and woven through to anchor. With some things I'll have the thread pulled up to the front way in the margin and do a little pin stitch to lock it - then later on weave it (mostly when using things like Neon Rays in large stitches like pin wheels, with nothing available to anchor for awhile). And, while some folks might find this verboten, there is always a little drop of some fabric glue (we have Japanese rice paste glue in the shop) to secure some things that just aren't going to be secure any other way (great with rayon, or on the back of punchneedle).
Maybe you could see the diagonals threads on the rabbit piece but I assure you it can't be seen on all needlepoint that's done with basketweave. I rarely use tent or continental, even on very small areas, so I'm not an expert there, but I've been using basketweave stitch for years and never had that problem.
Perhaps the kind of thread used makes the difference. I've almost always used wool and possibly the density helps.
Could be. And, honestly, I think it's more of an issue with the starting than the ending of threads. But, who knows. Also depends on the darkness of the thread/wool. Usually it's a subtle thing, and unless you're looking you can't see it -but on these funky bunnies - especially the one stitched in a dark beige/tan color it looked as if there were a diagonal stripe every so often.
InspirePoint website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.