Moroccan Embroidery

I am posting on behalf of a neice. She's interested in Moroccan Embroidery, particularly in the following question: Does traditional Moroccan embroidery start with threads of different colors, or are the colors dyed in after fabric is embroidered with thread of a single color? I'd imagine it has to be the former, but she wants to know for sure.

Are there websites with information on Moroccan Embroidery techniques -- *how* it's done, not just pictures of textiles? The book "Moroccan Textile Embroidery" by Isabelle Denamur looks as though it might have the information we seek, but it's not in any of our local libraries and no book seller (online or physical) seems able to get it at short notice.

Thanks for any help you can provide.

Arvind

Reply to
cricdabbler
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I have no knowledge of Moroccan embroidery. However, it would be impossible to dye threads after they were embroidered without affecting the surrounding threads and fabric.

Dianne

Reply to
Dianne Lewandowski

Another book to look for is a part of the DMC Library: Morocco Embroideries. I found several copies at

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When I looked for the title in French, Broderies Marocaines, I found only the Denamur book.

DMC's book has 61 color plates in about 6 different styles of embroidery, 5 stitch diagrams and several tracings to enlarge or reduce to work some of the pictured embroideries.

HTH

Nancy Sue, Professional Project Starter and collector of the DMC Library

Reply to
Nancy Sue

I just had to comment because I have in my possession an Indonesian ikat given as a gift which was woven into patterns with white thread against a dark background and then painted with dye. It's quite obvious because the dye has run in some areas, and the threads painted on the surface but are still white on the fabric side.

As I understand it, the ikat technique originally consisted of dying the threads in different colors first, and then weaving patterns with this thread to form patterns. It was a precision technique, but very time consuming. In order to meet the demand from the tourist, and the decorator trade, a few corners were cut.

If your neice is looking at a textile and it appears to have been painted, this may be what is going on. Even though she's looking at Morrocan textiles, not Indonesian, it is quite conceivable to me that the textile might be from the same type of 'investors' producing the same type of product. And having had some experience with the import business, it might not even be produced in Morocco, but in the Moroccan style. Or the seller might have decided to call it Moroccan because it is 'sexier'.

I know. I'm such a cynic. Dora

Reply to
bungadora

Although I posted the original question on behalf of my neice, what you say above interests me as well. Are you saying that the ikat technique involved dying different segments of *each* thread different colors, then weaving the threads in a way that ensures that specific colors end up in precise places on the ultimate pattern? That sounds like it would require extraordinary accuracy.

Arvind

Reply to
cricdabbler

I would advise you to look up Berber cloth Al Maghrib Al Aqsa Moslim or Moslem textiles. ps using varigated threads is quite common , Ikat is not a Morrocan tradition ,

mirjam

Reply to
Mirjam Bruck-Cohen

Reply to
Dianne Lewandowski

Yes. And when well done the pattern is crisp. The term came to be adopted for more than the original technique.

As Mirjam pointed out, Ikat is not a Morroccan tradition. I brought it up as an example of the deterioration in handcraft standards which can occur once it enters production for export. Dora

Reply to
bungadora

Thank you Dora ,, In fact i have just now `inherited` some original Marokan cloth pieces. Also in Israel we have quite a great Group of people who grew up in Marroko, and have first hand knowledge about the many crafts done there. The Jewish Community in Maroko had many great carftsmen and craftswomen . Both in Textile and Silversmithing. But Alas as many imigrants do , many of them threw away their original well crafted clothes , to make way for `more modern` clothes when they came here. Now those who kept some are reviving some of the traditions. And luckily there are still women who remember or never stopped doing their traditional crafts. I had some students who incorportaed inherited cloths into their fiberart works and who interviewed their mothers and Grandparents who crafted those. I also saw a lot of Marokan textiles in Brusseles , in the Africa Museum. And have several books about it. mirjam

Reply to
Mirjam Bruck-Cohen

Is most of the Moroccan embroidery that finds its way to Isreal Berber? My impression is that the Berbers were originally nomadic and moved all over northern Africa. Is that so?

I recall seeing some embroideries before which I think you posted of colorful cross stitch band patterns. But there are other stitches used, aren't there? Dora

Reply to
bungadora

Thank you Dora , No Embroideries aren`t coming in now , only some Tuorist bought stuff , and those who came in in former times ARE NOT BERBER type , The Jews in Marokko had their own style , something between tne Yemanite style and The African coloring ...

I am not sure which embroideries you recall , the only things i `showed here ` was a link to my site with my Fiberart and the Exhibitions i curated ,,,,,

Could you please elaborate ??? mirjam

Reply to
Mirjam Bruck-Cohen

I'll have to sit down and do some searches. I've read a bit about African textiles, etc., particularly some of the textiles produced in middle Africa. I'm not so sure of what the Yemanite would look like.

But there are other stitches used,

I think I've seen some Middle Eastern embroidery which used long or satin stitch. Do they use textural or stumpwork-like techniques at all? Has chain stitch taken over?

Meanwhile, I'm going to bed. I'm yawning away here. I worked a super-long day, came home, fed my cats, ate my soup, and now I'm ready for sleep.

Dora

Reply to
bungadora

Yeminite [Jewish] embroidery uses many Chain stiches .. I was laos thinking about the Marokan {Jewish] silversmithing that combined many Relief and Embroidery like forms. Same in the embroidery , i speak mainly of what i saw and read about , i could ask some of the Experts for more information ..

the Term Middle eastern is TOO HUGE . Haven`t seen much Stump work until now ... much xst and many satin stiches . As most Embroideries were made either to wear on dresses or for Worship use , the stiches would be made accordingly.

I am just up ,[well some hours already , it Saturday Morning Shabat and we have a NICE day ... You sleep well mirjam

Reply to
Mirjam Bruck-Cohen

And the further back you go the huger it gets, each culture contributing a little bit, and each contributor being itself a mish mash of influences.

Chain stitch seems to show up a lot in ethnic embroideries for export. The way in which they are used seems to be the principal difference.

Speaking of clothing, I've seen some lovely needlelace on the headscarves of some Muslim women, but I don't know where they fit in the scheme of things. Dora Off to buy more cat food.

Reply to
bungadora

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