Hollow it. A solid knee-high base is basicly a crack generator, no matter how slowly you dry it. The outside dries and shrinks weeks before the middle does, and that's when you get cracks or actual explosions in the bisque. I built a solid garden marker about half that size and it survived drying, then cracked right down the middle in the kiln even after a two-week air dry. Lesson cost me a month of work. The good news is you can hollow it at leather hard without tearing the whole thing apart. Cut the base into big sections with a wire or fettling knife, scoop the walls down to roughly thumb thickness, score and slip the sections back togehter, then let the seams get good and firm before you even think about moving it. Add a hidden air hole somewhere inconspicuous, like under a lip or at the back near the ground, becuase trapped air plus moisture in a closed hollow form is its own problem. Do it now while everything's still workable, not bone dry. The thin spires are actually the less scary part as long as they're attached well and the whole piece dries evenly. The killer with mixed thickness is drying speed, so wrap the whole thing loosely in plastic and let it go for a couple weeks minimum. Uncover the top a few days before the bottom if you have to, since the chunky base holds water way longer.
For the windows and shingles, a wash is honestly the smart move. Heavy glaze pooling in tiny texture is how you get crawling and pinholing all over detail work. I've had good luck thinning a glaze way down and wiping the high spots back with a damp sponge so it sits in the recesses only. And keep any glaze out of spots where pieces touch the kiln shelf or each other, thin spires love to weld themselves to whatever's nearby.
Fire it slow on the bisque, like a full day with a long soak around the point where quartz flips, and let the kiln cool completly before you peek. Most bisque casualties happen because someone opened the lid while the piece was still over a couple hundred degrees.