Is it normal for my first bowl to crack while drying?

Unfortunately that crack is almost certainly done, and it probly happened within the first day or so, not when you unwrapped it. What you've got is classic uneven drying. The flared rim dries way faster than the thick base because it's thinner and more exposed, so it shrinks while the bottom is still wet and plastic. Something has to give, and the rim is the weakest point, so that's where it tears.

The plastic wrap was the right instinct but it works best when it's snug and even over the whole piece. If the top was loosely covered or the plastic only touched part of the bowl, the rim dried at a totally different rate from the base. Some people also prop the plastic up with little sticks or wads of paper so it's not touching the rim directly, which helps air circulate slightly and keeps everything drying at a similar pace.

Can you fix it? Honestly no, not really. Once clay has cracked through the wall like that, no amount of slip or paper clay will hold it through a cone 6 firing. The crack will open back up in the kiln, or worse, it'll look fine and then split during the glaze cycle. Some folks try scoring and filling with slip at the leather hard stage, but on a through-wall crack in a rim that's a long shot and usually a waste of a kiln slot.

One thing you can still get out of it: if the bowl is only leather hard, you can sometimes carve the crack out entirely and rework the rim lower. If the crack only runs two inches down from a flared lip, cutting the rim back below the crack might give you a smaller cup instead of a lost piece. Depends how attached you are to the shape.

For the next one, dry it upside down if the rim allows, or cover loosely and check it daily, rotating the plastic so no spot dries faster than the rest. Slow and even beats fast every time.

Same thing happened to my first mug but on the handle instead, it just popped off while sitting on my desk overnight. I never even covered it in anything, just left it out in the open like an idiot. So reading this I finally understand why. If I tried cutting the broken part off like you said, would the piece still be soft enough for that? Mine felt kind of stiff like cheese by the time I got around to it and I didn't dare touch it.

Yeah the second poster's right that cutting below the crack is your best shot if it's still leather hard. I did exactly that with a planter last year, sliced the cracked rim off and turned it into a squat little dish, and it survived the firing fine. One thing that helped me after that was draping a damp cloth over the piece first and then plastic over that, kept the whole thing drying at the same pace. Also started setting pieces on a wire rack so air moves under the base too, made a noticible difference with thick bottoms.

Update: took the third poster's advice and sliced the cracked rim off while it was still leather hard. Turned it into a low little dish, honestly not mad at it. The reply got cut off though, the bit about draping something over it to slow the drying? What do you drape it with, and does it stay on until bone dry or come off partway?