A binding question

I just had a 'gap' too, Pat. I boiled some beautiful shrimp and simply could Not remember what I use for sauce to go with them. Searched my favorite old recipe books for a few minutes and finally remembered: there is no recipe. We just put this and that in a measuring cup until it tastes good. Now. As to your binding. I think you would be happier testing the measurements yourself until you find a way that gives you the results you want. Take some leftovers and produce something to bind about the size of a sheet of copy paper. Honest-to-goodness, I keep my binding test in my scrap bin so I have a reminder of what works (and didn't work) for me. Polly

I work with 1/4inch seam and draw a line on the quilt to use as a guide. Then I whang it in the serger and zip round fast as that. I like bias binding and mitered corners. I also like to close the gap to finish it all off. I turn it over and slipstitch by hand, closing the miters as I get to them. The serged edge gets everything under control and seems to give a good, firm, straight edge to hang the quilt true. I also put the top of the hanging sleeve in at the same time, and catch it down when the rest is finished.

Nel (Gadget Queen)

I've always used a 2-3/4" strip for double fold binding when all recommendations have been to use a 2-1/2" strip...I sewed larger than 1/4" too when using my pfaff machine and sewing foot. When I recently finished the hug quilt using my new Diamond, I had to rethink the binding question and measurements, foot, etc. I decided to try a 2-1/2" strip with the wool batting - spacing wasn't a problem and there was plenty of leeway to cover the stitches at the back of the quilt. I think that it is a personal preference whether you decide to have equal or unequal amounts of binding front and back. barnyowl

I agree with you - it is a question of the look that appeals to the individual and testing is good way to start. I've been known to use a tape measure to estimate the best strip size for folding before cutting any fabric. barnyowl (still have to get used to the 'new' name!)

Den 17-08-2011 22:23, Pat S skrev:

You already have several answers, but here's mine without looking at the others. I cut strips 2.5", join with a diagonal seam pressed open. Fold the strip in half and press. I also press the starting end with a diagonal flap folded over, which is where the 2 ends will eventually be sewn together.

After it's all attached, us>Strange as it may seem, I have never done a half-inch binding. Few of

Roberta, I'm trying to understand your method. It's clear until the trimming of the backing and batting. I don't understand why they'd be 1/2 inch from the stitching. I cut mine 1/4 inch, the same as the top, for a 1/4 inch finished binding. Do you fold the backing and batting in half somehow? I'm always open to new techniques, so would like to understand this. I sometimes "trim" my corners a little too....makes a much less bulky miter.

Alice

Not Roberta, Alice; but, in answer to my original question, Roberta and the others are helping me to make a half-inch binding. Does that help? . In message , Alice in PA writes

Aaah, yes!! That makes sense!

Now, another question. I always trim my top, batting and backing at the same time....when I've finished the quilting. I always need to "square up" the top as well as the other layers. How could the top be trimmed in a separate step from squaring up the batting and backing? I don't understand how the top could have a quarter inch seam and the batting and backing have a half inch seam when the binding is sewn on. Help....

I do the same for 1/2 inch binding. After the quilting is completed I do a 'rough' trim of my excess batting/backing to make machine sewing the binding to the top a little easier. When the binding is completely sewn to the top with a 1/4 inch seam allowance from the edge of the top (and through all the layers) I do a final trim of the backing and binding another 1/4 inch from the edge of the top - thus making a 1/2 inch binding.

Does that make it easier to follow??? Hope so.

Kim in NJ

Roberta, this is just what I do, also! And when I turn it to the back, it is hand sewn. Sometimes, depending on the size of the project, there is the hanging tube or corner triangles sewn in.

G> You already have several answers, but here's mine without looking at

Thanks very much everyone. I have done a couple of tests so far, and am just about to do a few more. I can't get it quite right yet; but I will do eventually. It is our group quilt, so I can't make any mistakes. The fabric is all batik, so is not as fine as I usually work with - my mitred corners usually work like a dream; but these might be more tricky, because of the 'sturdiness' of the fabric. I'm grateful for the tips in this thread.

Glad you reported back, Pat. I'd wondered how it was going. Oh my yes, the sturdiness of batik is surely a factor to be reckoned with. Batik is not very yielding with appliqué either. Polly

Thanks so much for that Roberta. The 'tightness' of the corner was one reason I rejected one of the tests! You must be psychic. The latest one I did was passable! This might be just the touch it needs. Terrific, thank you. . In message , Roberta writes