Basket/Triangles Block

Yes, there is a happy medium with heat, and also with time the iron is held onto the fabric. You might well have to experiment. Also, did you do it dry or with steam. I have only ever used a dry iron, so I can't comment on what might happen with steam - that could possibly have been an element in the equation. I tend to use just one iron for doing all the same types of thing - my dry iron. When I have finished blocks etc, I go out into the kitchen and use my steam iron - never the twain shall meet g< . In message , Bev in TX writes

Preshrinking the freezer paper has another advantage, in that it also takes that first "sticktoitiveness" away, leaving the FP much easier to remove after pressing it (dry iron!) to the real fabric.

Bev, that block looks just fine. The EQ measurements were probably rounded up because the basket is on point, which always results in odd numbers and measurements (often in 16ths of an inch and so forth.) If you have problems with stretch on the bias edges of the triangles try using starch or sizing (Mary Ellen's Best Press is wonderful!! NAYY) Don't store starched fabric for long because it will attract bugs, but sizing is okay to store.)

It was pointed out to me, yet again, yesterday that we see all the problems, and "not quite right" parts of our own work, but others don't see them, often even if they are pointed out. Take a few days, then look at the photo again. You will see it is much better than you thought it was.

Have fun, Pati, > I've been practicing sewing some triangles and you can see the

Bev, EQ is really picky about straight lines. if you zoom in very close, you can probably find where your line isn't as straight as it should be. Since all the lines in that block are straight, you should be able to get rotary cutting instructions. However, if you are just a tiny bit off it will interpret the line as not straight. There is a way to use the adjust tool to help with snapping lines to a node and helping to get them straight. I would suggest you play with it a bit more to see if that helps. It does take some practice and patience to learn to use all the different parts of EQ, but play and have fun with it and it helps. You might want to schedule some time every day, even just 15 minutes, to play with EQ. Start a New Project that is "play time" and work on one thing at a time until you understand more about how to use it. Read through the manual, and learn to use the index (which is not as intuitive as it might be for everyone. )

Good luck, Pati, > I drew the block several times in the hopes that EQ would provide

Freezer paper "stickiness" can be affected by several things. If you use non-prewashed fabric you may have to apply too much heat and pressure to get it to stick. (Remember fabric has lots of finishes put on before shipping. Part of those finishes are to repel dirt/dust/ stains. That also repels anything that is supposed to stick like anything fusible. ) Any time I am going to use freezer paper I do prewash. (yes, even though I don't generally.) And make sure to not use fabric softener or dryer sheets....... they also help "repel" any fusibles.

Use a dry iron, and a very firm surface. If you have problems with the freezer paper not wanting to come unstuck try pressing it again, just enough to warm the plastic and it will remove easily.

Freezer paper has a lot of uses in the sewing room. I understand that some people even find uses for it in the kitchen!!!

Have fun, Pati, in Phx

I wash all fabric almost as soon as it arrives home to remove chemicals that may bother me and I almost always forget to use fabric softener. My box of dryer sheets is now about 15 years old, but I do remember to use it to remove goo/gunk from my iron :-).

Thanks for the tip about warming up the FP to remove it -- I'll be sure to try it out :-). Bev in TX

Those sound like great ideas -- I'll be sure to try them out :-). Bev in TX

I used a dry iron, as I was concerned that using steam might affect the FP. Bev in TX

Ooh, another great idea :-). I'll be sure to try this one first. Bev

I have one more question about this process. Given that the cut seam allowance may not be exactly a 1/4", I presume that one would want to use some kind of open toe presser foot instead of a 1/4" presser foot, so that one could more readily see the edge of the freezer paper?

Bev in TX

Excellent question, Bev. You are absolutely right. I'm sorry. I never use a quarter inch foot, so it wasn't in my mind. Another thing I didn't mention, you will need to pin with this method. Match the paper edges. , In message , Bev in TX writes

By all means! IMO and experience, your block *is* fairly simple. I hear so many people complain who've bought the package and then never bothered to watch the videos, do the lessons, or pardon the expression, rtfm. I've heard all the reasons/excuses and my answer is, if you want to throw away $150, send it to me! :-) Happy designing!

Doc

That is one pretty block, Bev!

Best regards, Michelle in Nevada, USA

Good one, Bev! That is a fine example of a timeless pattern. PAT, VA

Patti,

I tried a simple 4-patch sample and ended up with another question. Namely, what does one do with the seam allowances? If I sew iron the seam allowances to one side or even open, then part of the FP will be covered when sewing the next seam. Does this mean that one must either back stitch at the end of seams or use a sewing machine function to tie off the seam at each end?

Also, since the FP gets ironed on to the wrong side of the fabric, I presume that one must either reverse the pattern on the FP for non- symmetrical designs or be okay with having the design mirrored in reverse?

Thanks, Bev

That got my brain in gear!

The FP should be cut out from the pattern, so you don't have any seam allowances on the paper itself. You sew along the edge of the paper and so you just press the fabric whichever way you want. The paper does occasionally have the odd stitch stray onto it, but it shouldn't be the norm.

I hadn't thought of the seam starts and stops, as I always use a reverse stitch from habit - not because it is always needed. If the seam is going to have another crossing it at its edges, it should be OK. I rarely test that theory out >g

i presume you put your tutu and tiara on first. snorfle, j.

"Patti" wrote... That got my brain in gear!

You're keeping me on my toes >gg<

But of course! What else? >g< . In message , J* writes

Thanks once again :-).

I found two straight stitches on my Janome that have an automatic tie off at stop and start:

• lock-a-matic (#3) When starting, this stitch sews forward 5-stitches, backward 5- stitches and then sews forward as normally until one hits the reverse button, at which time it sews backwards 5-stitches.

• locking stitch (#4) When starting, this stitch sews in place a few times, sews forward as normally until one hits the reverse button, at which time it sews in place a few stitches again.

I tried both of them and like the latter one better than the former one, because the lock-a-matic stitch seems to start coming undone right away. In any case, I'll try playing around with this some more, as I never used either of those before :-).

My little Bernina Activa has a "securing stitch" (#5), which is like the Janome lock-a-matic stitch. I have not tried that one yet, as I do not have room to have both machines out at the same time and the Janome is a bit heavy to be hoisting around.

Bev in TX