Machine applique question

If the pillows are for a baby, it's said that invisible thread is a no-no. It can get wrapped around a finger or toe and- being invisible- not discovered right away. Don't know if this is a fact or a 'they say' but better safe than sorry.

I have used my regular all cotton thread (50 wt.) that I use for piecing in the bobbin with invisible. I've even used good ol' Coats & Clark thread with it. The main complaint I have with invisible is that it's so fine it doesn't 'fill' the hole the needle makes. Also, it takes some messing with the tensions to not have your bobbin thread show. I seldom use invisible for these reasons.

To give you an idea about the visible needle holes, you can really see the holes on the moon fabric in this block- (I use this block whenever anybody asks about the invisible thread for applique LOL)

I like a buttonhole stitch in matching or contrasting cotton thread or a short narrow zig-zag for nearly invisible machine applique. Sharon Schamber (I'm pretty sure she is the one who developed this???) has an interesting technique where she does not pre-wash/preshrink the background fabric for the applique, but does wash the applique fabric(s). When she washes the quilt top the slight amount of shrinkage in the background fabric makes the stitches invisible! Pretty clever!

Leslie, Missy & The Furbabies in MO.

Deanna, there's simply not a 'one size fits all' answer for you. You really would find a best solution for your pillows if you make a test piece and try all three of your ideas. I'm assuming that you're going to use the SM stitch that takes 2 or 3 straight stitches on the background and then reaches over and takes a tiny bite of the appliqué. If so, you'll want to use a thread color that matches your background instead of your appliqués. You can, of course, use a satin stitch or you can go bold and use a heavy black thread on the top. To do testing, you don't really have to use real appliqués - just folding an edge of your appliqué fabrics on your background so you have a double thickness edge will show you how things are looking *and* going. Test bobbin threads too. One will be just right. Testing sounds like it takes a lot of precious time but once you get it - ta-dah! you've got it and won't have to stop and argue with a bobbin or SM setting. Polly

"Deanna in Virginia" I have two pillows that I need to do the applique by machine. I was

And don't forget to use some removable (tear or wash away is fine) stabilizer under your machine stitches! Since I have made a habit of using some, my machine applique has been So Much smoother, no matter what stitch or thread I use.

Lorraine

Harriet Hargrave has a good book to answer all questions: Mastering Machine Applique. There are 3 basic versions: mock hand applique using invisible thread on top, and either satin stitch or buttonhole stitch using regular or embroidery thread on top. Use regular thread in the bobbin for all. Roberta in D

"Deanna in Virginia" schrieb im Newsbeitrag news: snipped-for-privacy@s12g2000prg.googlegroups.com...

Leslie, I have been pondering this. Since I don't have the problem with needle holes when I use SewArt invisible thread. I am wondering what size needle you are using?? Also were your appliques fused in place? I usually use a size 70/10 or 65/9 needle when using invisible thread. Also I find that fused fabric will almost always retain needle holes much longer/more than non fused, but a lot of steam can help.

That said, Deanna, I usually use cotton or poly thread in the bobbin when using invisible thread. I would test and see what happens, but usually match the bobbin to the background fabric. When using invisible thread you need to really reduce the tension on your top thread. A lot sometimes. The SewArt thread is one recommended by Harriet Hargrave for both quilting and machine applique where you don't want the thread to show. It is a matte finish, not shiny and the biggest problem I have found with it is that it tends to disappear into the fabric and it can be difficult to see where you have been. If you decide to use the regular sewing thread for the applique, and want it to "disappear" or seem invisible, I would probably go with thread that matches the applique and be very careful to stay right at the edge of it for the straight part of the stitching. (Background color wouldn't show on the background but those little stitches into the applique might be glaring.) Test and see what give an effect you can live with.

Good luck, and remember to have fun with it. Pati, > If the pillows are for a baby, it's said that invisible thread is a no-no.

Thanks for the help. I have a picture of it in my sewing album at

The pillows are for my living room.The background fabric is ultra suede and the print is cotton. I think using a 100% cotton or maybe a cotton wrapped poly thread might be the right way. I know I don't want the stitches to show very much so I feel using a thread color the same as the applique should prevent that. Plus I am going to use tiny stitches. I've decided against the clear thread because I didn't like the holes in the block I saw on that Leslie gave the link for.

Please feel free to look at the picture and tell me if you think I am headed in the right direction with my thread choice.

Thanks, Deanna Virginia

I always use the smallest sm needle possible- but several years later now I couldn't tell you what size it was. I have always had this problem with invisible applique and remember at some point reading an article that it was a common problem. The author had stopped using invisible as well due to the holes. The applique was freezer paper underneath, seam allowances basted under and then pinned to the background and stitched with invisible. Had I use a fusible it would have been buttonhole or satin stitched. BG Thanks for the tip on steaming.... IF I ever use invisible again I'll try that idea!

Leslie, Missy & The Furbabies in MO.

I had the problem of not being able to see the stitches when I made my Celtic knot quilt. DH's job each evening was to check all the appliqué edges, and mark with a pin where I had missed a bit. We make a good team!

It is a hard lesson to learn though. We all expect everything to be perfect the first time, every time. Life rarely works that way though. I've learned to clean and oil my bobbin area every time I change the bobbin, even if I just did it fifteen minutes ago. (Like locking the car door--if you do it every time you get out of the car then you won't forget when the need is the greatest.) After that, I run the machine to see if any oil shows up on the stitches or if the stitches aren't right, then set up and test the stitch I want to use. It takes about 2 minutes, but I truly believe I save at least fifteen minutes of sewing catastrophe nearly every time. No oops the stitches are the wrong length or width, no frog stitching 'cause there's a thread snarl on the bottom of the piece I sewed, and no more "oh no I forgot to switch back to straight stitch after I did that satin stitching yesterday." Yep, there's nothing as funny, humbling, and frustrating, as picking out a perfect 1/4" seam that was unfortunately sewn with a satin stitch. I no longer consider the set up time to be a waste of time. Just don't ask how long it took me to learn it. Debra in VA See my quilts at: