Needle turn applique

Generally a good 1/4 inch. Sometimes I make it a little larger to start with and then trim the seam allowance after I stitch, if it's a fiddly piece that needs a lot of manipulation. Helps to prevent the edges from fraying from too much handling.

I've tried every form of applique possible and after taking a class on needle turn from Nancy Chong who does incredible Hawaiian applique I've not had any troubles.

First off, the best amount of seam allowance is 3/16". Secondly, you need to make sure that your stitches are very close together, if they're not, you will get the ruffles. Also, don't tug too tightly. Third, use a long, size 11 milliners needle. Use the needle to sweep the fabric under, then use your thumb to hold it in place. I generally have about 1 needle length already "pre-tucked".

FYI, Nancy Chong is teaching several classes at

LizA. Kent, WA

Debra, try doing it via the "backbasting" technique. (

I cannot do needle turn the "regular" way, but do enjoy it this way.

Pati, > is the most obnoxious hand applique technique I've ever tried.

Debra, try using a round wooden toothpick to push the edges under. Hold it in your mouth so it is not dry (but not really wet either) the moist wood helps "grab" the fabric and pushes it under easier. (Or so I've been told by some top notch applique-ers.)

Pati, > >

Yes it does help - but I roll the toothpick under. That drags the fabric under more smoothly. Just put the tip along the edge line (not pointing into the piece) you want and roll it under your top finger - the applique fabric will follow.

Sorry Patti - I think I hit "reply" before instead of "reply group" lol