How do you get topstitching to look even on thick denim seams?

Oct 20, 2026 Last reply: 44 seconds ago 3 Replies

First reply

abecker

The layering issue you are describing, where the stitches get wonky or you get those little loops underneath, is almost always related to fabric feeding, especially with denim. The machine is trying to pull through multiple layers of heavy material at once, and if the top layer…

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So I'm halfway through a denim jacket with corduroy applique daisies on the front, and the topstitching is driving me up the wall. Every time I sew over the seams where the denim layers stack up, the stitches go wonky or the thread tension goes weird and I get little loops on the underside. I've ripped out the same seam like four times now. Is there a trick to this? I've tried going slower and using a longer stitch length, which helped a bit, but the thick spots still throw everything off. My machine came with a regular foot and a zipper foot, and I'm not sure if either is the right choice here. Would a walking foot actually make a difference or am I wasting money?



Also curious what thread people use for visible topstitching on denim. I bought some thick specialty thread and it looks great when it behaves, but it skips stitches constantly. Should I just switch to regular thread in a matching color and accept a subtler look? I realy want that chunky contrast stitching but not if it means fighting the machine the whole way.


The layering issue you are describing, where the stitches get wonky or you get those little loops underneath, is almost always related to fabric feeding, especially with denim. The machine is trying to pull through multiple layers of heavy material at once, and if the top layer moves independently of the bottom layers, you get distortion. A walking foot definitely makes a difference here; it helps pull all layers through evenly, which should drastically reduce those thick spot problems. It's a tool for when you're dealing with multiple, dense fabrics, so it's probably a good investment if you do a lot of outerwear.

Regarding the thread, if your chunky specialty thread is skipping, it could be that the thread is simply too thick for your machine to handle consistently, even if it looks great. Machine threads are designed to have a specific weight and diameter. Try running a few test seams with a heavy duty polyester thread that is specifically marketed for denim, but maybe one that is slightly less massive than the specialty contrast thread you bought. You might find that a standard heavy-duty thread behaves much more predictably, even if the contrast isn't quite as aggressive as you want.

If you want that strong, visible contrast, I'd suggest trying to adjust the tension settings on your machine rather than switching thread types entirely. Sometimes, if the top thread tension is just a hair off, it pulls unevenly across those dense seams, which can make it look like the thread is skipping. Since you mentioned you tried going slower, keep doing that, but also make sure your needle is sharp and appropriate for thick denim. A dull needle can create friction that throws off the tension, especially when stitching over a seam allowance. Also, when dealing with denim layering, sometimes slightly shortening your stitch length below what you think is necessary actually helps stabilize the seam, even if it feels counterintuitive to what you tried before. It gives the machine less distance to travel and helps the fabric hold itself togather better through the thick areas. It's just another thing to try if the feeding issue persists.

I'd push back on the shorter stitch length advice. In my expirience thick seam crossings are exactly where you want a LONGER stitch, not shorter. Short stitches on bulky denim just cram a bunch of thread into one tight spot, the fabric can't feed between punches, and you end up with a jammed, lumpy mess right on the ridge. I topstitch hems on heavy twill all the time and bumping the length up is what got my corners clean. Also worth checking if the machine has a presser foot pressure dial, letting up on that helps the foot ride over the bump instead of getting choked on it.

I have tried sewing some really thick wool fabric for a small pouch, and it feels like the seams always bunch up in the same spot. It seems like even if I go slow, the fabric just gets stuck where the pieces join together. I always press the seam allowance open right after sewing, but that doesn't seem to help much when I go over the thickest parts. Do people use some kind of stiffener or somthing to help hold the pieces apart while the machine is running?

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