I am looking for an easier way to repair holes in socks.
There has got to be a better way than sewing the holes.
Like maybe a flexible material that can be ironed over the hole?
I have been repairing socks for more than 50 years and the best way I have
found has been to buy a light weight yarn of close to the same color yarn
that you usually wear socks and use it to darn with to repair with using an
in/out weave stitch. I have not found a material similar to something that
could be used to mend jeans. Barbara
Funny this subject should come up this week. I just (finally)
donated my DMIL's sewing basket. It was full of interesting things:
odd buttons, bits of ribbon, several wooden spools of thread, a
package of upholstery needles, and.... a darning egg! I'm pretty
sure I had never seen one in the flesh before.
Beverly, who has never darned a sock in her life.
Alternatively, you could look on darning as being part of the 'slow'
movement or a zen experience. Or even take inspiration from the
wonderful Tom of Holland who makes darning an art form and from which he
has built a successful little business.
Many moons ago, when I was a kid, fusible round bits of cotton knit
came on the market. You were supposed to darn your socks by fusing a
patch over the hole. Usually, by later in the day, you were walking
on the balled-up patch.
My mother was very good at mending, but I dreaded wearing darned socks
because I could just about guarantee I'd have a blister. Her darning was
flat and smooth; I learned, and my darning was flat and smooth, and gave me
blisters. I tried a different darning technique. Result: blisters.
Now I say, "darn holey sock!" and toss it at the rag bag, where it becomes a dust
cloth, oil rag, serger practice piece, source of ribbing for dog coat leggings...
If it's a hand knit sock, I'll ravel the hole completely out and re-knit
with new yarn, but I'm not darning socks.
The difference between a darning needle and a crewel needle is that
the darning needle is longer for its thickness. Wikipedia says that
darners have blunt tips, but all of mine are sharp.
I darn with a blunt needle, to slip between the threads instead of
piercing them. The tapestry needles I use are shorter than the
corresponding crewel needles, which is better for nalbinding.
I have been told that interlocking rows of buttonhole stitch are
nalbinding of complexity zero.
If the garment isn't precious enough to justify duplicate stitch,
interlocking rows of buttonhole are the only way to darn knitting. It
stretches the same as knitting, it covers weak threads on both sides,
and you can vary the thickness by taking longer or shorter stitches,
which makes it easy to blend the darn into the undamaged fabric.