Ironing Board & Pad Dilemma

I posted here not long ago that I had problems with leaking irons for 2 years--- two of them Rowentas--- due to an ironing board that would not let the steam pass through. The steam went back up the holes in the iron, condensed, and then leaked out onto whatever I was ironing. In addition, it was very difficult to get garments dry. I did not discover the source of the problem until I switched ironing boards. Then, all my irons stopped leaking. Just something to keep in mind with modern steam irons. It's obviously not the same with dry ironing. Personally, given my own experience, I suspect that the "iron both sides at once" deal is more hype than actual performance based on real data. YMMV. Good sewists use a clapper to pound in steam to make it penetrate better.

Phae

As a professional dressmaker with a wide wooden ironing board (well, MDF actually!), I have to say the best pad and cover option is to 'upholster' the thing myself! I put a layer of greaseproof paper and one of heavy tinfoil on the board first, and buy a LARGE chunk of ironing board felt and cover the board with that, cutting it a good 2" wider than the board all round. I wrap the felt round to the back and staple it in place. Then I cover this TIGHTLY with some boiled plain calico (heavy weight 'muslin'), stapling that in place.

Each time I do this it lasts several years: MUCH longer than 'ironing board covers'. When it gets stained to the point that it might affect a customer's wedding dress, I recover it. The felt lasts longer than the calico.

When starching things I tend to cover the board with another cloth so that there is no starch on the board.

If you use fusible interfacings, you'll get crummy results with a metallized fabric cover.

Me, myself and I, I use white cotton twill. Take it off and toss it in the washer, stick it back on. When it gets holes, it's time for a new cover. Padding is a piece of old wool blanket.

Kay

I second the above. My homemade main board is 2x3 feet and I begin with with two layers of WWII wool army blanket and cover with white cotton drill cloth. JPBill

Well I'll be.... So THAT's how those creases get so sharp. A good 2 x 4, properly sanded, might work. But then... it's pine. But it doesn't look like the board is really subjected to much steam. By the time it hits the fabric, most of the steam has already left. I'm sure the fabric remains hot though. That's what permits the board (clapper) to do it's thing; smash the fibers into a sharp edge.

Very interesting. Thanks.

I'm a tad confused. Phaedine in the first reply spoke of steam bouncing back into the iron making it drip. And my board has more holes than solid space, I assume, to allow steam to escape from the bottom. You prevent it from going through and allow it to bounce back up.

Which is correct?

How do you hold the cotton twill in place? I suppose - since this is a forum for sewing - most everyone is an expert tailor/seamstress and makes some sort of tie to hold it in place. I struggle threading a needle!

P.S. Using bungee cords or spring loaded fasteners under the board, the twill could be clipped on each end and perhaps held in place that way. But that leaves the heal and head of the board with the twill simply dangling downward. Problem.

Neither... Both? I've never had this problem. The waterproofing is to preserve the board. The pad is quite thick, and I use a steam generator tank iron - LOTS more steam than a standard domestic. I had a drippy Rowenta: the problem was usually caused by the iron not being hot enough to keep it steaming at the steam rate it was set, so the vapour condensed on the iron and dripped down onto the garment.

I also use about half an inch thick of padding on the board. To stop the board staying damp after a heavy pressing session, I usually dry iron a few things like crumpled pressing cloths, pillow cases... The moisture in the board padding is usually enough for those. It's never enough to show as damp patches on the board. The watermarks on the board are from me over-filling the tank or dumping wet things on it!

A good weight of wool cloth will hold the moisture for quite some time - until well after the garment piece is cold!

The technique is to lift the iron off and IMMEDIATELY clap it hard with the wood. Beech is a better wood for a clapper than pine. I need to get a nice bit of 4"X4" beech for DH to shape for me. I have little paws, and some form of grip is necessary.

board w/staples a'la upholstery technique. Stretch tightly, or course.

Function of a clapper is not to pound the fabric into shape inspite of the suggestive name (pound $40/yd fabric? I think not!) It just holds fabric in place while the wood acts as a sump to confine and then absorb heat and moisture until the crease is stable. Almost any unfinished hardwood will do: beech, maple would be preferred because they will just dent a little when you drop them w/no splintered edges which can happen w/oak or ash. Take care of it and even pine would work.

JPBill

You're welcome. I'm not sure about pine, but a nicely sanded piece of

Beverly

Do you really mean "4 x 4"? That's the size of a beam! About 18" long"? Or

Hummmm... So! If I just get another felt pad (the one that's there is about

I've been sewing and ironing for many years and it's the first time I ever had the problem too. It happened with *all* my irons, not just the Rowentas. The offending board was made of stainless steel with almost no holes at all; it's a Nutone built in unit, that came with the house, that I never use anymore. My other board is a Polder with enameled steel mesh. Anyone with a drippy iron would be wise to take this discussion into consideration.

Kate has a good point about the heat of standard irons. Today's irons just don't put out enough heat continuously. That is definitely part of the problem. But even though my irons make me wait sometimes whilst they get back up to temp (I always set them on "linen" to get enough heat), they never drip anymore so I think the steel board was the primary causative agent in my case. No doubt there are other factors so YMMV, John. I'm considering that new iron... that "Reliable" or something like that.... the one that has two thermostats, one for the soleplate and one to heat the water.

I also make my own ironing board covers. I cut the cover the size of my ironing board with 3-4 inches of "seam allowance" all around. Then I sew a casing all the way around the outer edge of the cover, leaving 2 or 3 openings through which I insert cord for ties. Having several places to adjust the ties makes it a lot easier to get the cover tight all the way around. I use drill that I got from Gohn Brothers for the cover. At least I thought it was called drill but I could be wrong. It is like twill on one side and heavy flannel on the other side. The flannel helps it to adhere to the padding underneath.