Marking through multiple layers of fabric

Might using a curved needle help? I understand it takes a while to master, but it might solve your problem, if, indeed, it is a question of keeping all the layers level while you poke the needle through them

Olwyn Mary in New Orleans

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Maybe a straight pin in the designated circle; then carefully holding onto the pin, carefully place a pin in the same spot as each layer of fabric starting with the bottom, is removed. I've done that when cutting outfits for 2 nieces at the same time. It works perfectly, if you are careful. But this has to be done one pin at a time. HTH, Emily

I ditto this method. I hate tailor tacks with a vengence anymore. Stick a pin at the mark. Use chalk, air/water soluable ink, soap. T-tacks take way too much time and effort.

AK in PA

For dart points, just stab through the point of the dart with a pin, then fold back each layer and mark the pin's location with chalk.

Or move 1/2" (or 1 cm) back from the dart tip. Use a screw punch to make a small hole. (Or an awl. Or a sewing machine needle, pulled completely through the fabric). To sew, line up the edge notches of the dart, sew to

1/2"/1cm beyond the marked point. (Remember high school geometry -- two points determine a line, so you don't have to mark the entire dart!)

For pockets and similar internal placement lines, mark with chalk using the pin technique.

For vast numbers of internal placement marks needed (like a stack of 60o diamonds that are going to become a tumbling blocks quilt), make a template of thin plastic with the mark in the correct spot. Line up over each piece and pounce with chalk (or cornstarch).

What's your problem with tailor's tacks? Do they slide right through? Try using elastic thread or serger tail -- these both have enough elasticity and friction to hang on.

Kay

Thanks to you, Kay, and others who responded. I'm experimenting with the various techniques and making some progress. I had been using silk thread for the tacks on recommendation from a book specifically because it is slick, but your trick of using elastic thread gives it more bite and doesn't pull out by accident. My pattern pieces have many, many points to mark and one slips by me once in a while otherwise.

JPBill

Dear JPBill,

Just stick a pin in the point, i.e., a dart. then mark each layer on the wrong wide with a disappearing pen. Don't try to draw a dart, however, it will come out too fat at the point and leave a dimple. Just mark the widest part of the dart, and the disappearing point. For pocket placement or other symbol markings, the disappearing pen is the easiest. You can also use a sharpened piece of dry soap for dark colors.

Teri

I use disappearing marker (water soluble or just plain disappearing) for aligning machine embroidery, but I know I'm going to finish that project right away. For garment sewing, I sometimes cut and mark, but then don't complete for several days (or weeks), and I would be afraid that disappearing marker would disappear in the interim. I always use tailor's chalk for marking, I have several colors on hand, as well as saving soap slivers for that purpose.

Beverly

Just a word of caution on disappearing ink - it's always good to test it before. I saw several times when it, well... didn't disappear properly :/

The disappearing markers I use are products made for marking alignment for machine embroidery. Not actually "ink', more like a felt-tip marker or soft pastel pencil. I have yet to run across one which did not disappear, either spontaneously or when water was applied, depending on the application.

For most garment sewing, I use tailor's chalk, especially on the "inside" marks. For pockets and other external pieces I try to use the smallest possible mark, and place it just

*inside* the actual alignment mark so that it will be covered after the piece is sewn.

Beverly