semi fitted to fitted

The skirt turned out...all right lol. I think my fabric might have been a bit too heavy for the pattern, so instead of draping around my hips and legs, it(made of corduroy) looks like a huge a-line skirt =S

- don't know if I'll be able to wear it out (which is a bummer). Meh, it was a learning process (and learn I did- pin heads should go in the direction one's sewing in to preserve fingers! lol). And, more importantly, I loved every minute of it!

So onto the next project =D. I want to try my hand at McCall's 4194 (

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...I realize it's a few steps up in difficulty (hopefully not toomany!), but I'm always up for a challenge! The blazer is described as semi fitted, whereas I want it make it more fitted like a shirt blazer, without drastic pattern alterations, if possible. (I think it would look smashing with an asymmetrical skirt and stilettos!) Do you think going down one size would remedy that? It seems a little too easy! lol

=)

Reply to
Glitterati
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That's the most important part! And you know now why certain fabrics are recommended for certain styles, and that you cannot substitute without seeing a difference in the hang of the garment.

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)...I realize it's a few steps up in difficulty (hopefully not too> many!), but I'm always up for a challenge! Quite a few, but it isn't a difficult style. The differences are in the techniques...

NO! Pop over to my web site (URL below, as usual), and see the chart on ease allowances. Ease (the difference between body measurement and garment measurement) is built in at the design stage. The difference is slightly different for different sizes: larger sizes need more ease to get the same look and hang than smaller sizes. Just going down a size may feel like it fits, but remember, the shoulders will be narrower, the sleeves a different length, the balance points in a different place... You would do better to make it in your proper size and take it in where you need to get the fit you want: this will need a second (experienced!) sewer and fitter to pin the changes in, as you will be wearing the blazer... It might be easier to go for a closer fitted style. There were a couple of fantastic princess line fitted jackets in the Butterick magazine that came out in November - so nice I bought both! Nos 4020 and 4028. Both would look fab with asymmetrical skirts.

Reply to
Kate Dicey

You rock Kate! 4028 "D" was exactly what I had in mind!

=)

Reply to
Glitterati

GRIN! See - listen to Auntie! ;)

If you choose to make it out of velvet, buy 100% cotton curtain velvet and wash it and tumble dry it before you make it up. It will look a little different from the Brand New look of it if you don't do this, but you will then be able to iron it (on the inside!), and it's a LOT easier to handle than dress velvet! It will also be washable for ever more. This tip comes to you courtesy of a LOT of historical costumers!

Reply to
Kate Dicey

Out of curiousity, what's the difference between curtain velvet and regular velvet? (Mind reader...I *was* thinking of making it out of black velvet =D) Does it hang differently?

=)

Reply to
Glitterati

Curtain velvet is generally a lot heavier than dress velvet. But you can make garments with it - it's not illegal! Some costumers prefer it because it has more body than dress velvet.

:) Trish

Reply to
Trishty

Dress velvet is usually made from a rayon or polyester fabric with a silk, rayon, cotton, or poly pile. Occasionally you will find an all silk or an all cotton dress velvet. The pile is less dense than an all cotton curtain fabric, and will withstand being sat on and crushed (as in skirts) far less well than the cotton pile of curtain fabric. Dress velvet is much slipperier than curtain velvet, and therefore more difficult to handle - get a sample or two of each and have a good feel!

Another advantage with curtain velvet is that it usually comes up a bit wider - 54" wide rather than 42" - and it doesn't necessarily cost more!

DO NOT buy UPHOLSTERY weight velvet for garment making - THAT will make the jacket feel like you stitched it up out of carpet! It also weight a ton!

Reply to
Kate Dicey

quick question, Kate! When you sewed 4028, did you go by your regular pattern size (not rtw, but the 8, 10, 12, etc on the pattern envelope) or did you go up a size? When I was buying my pattern size the lady in the fabric store said that I should go up a size, but I want the opinion of an expert sewer before I go out and buy fabric =).

Oh, and do butterick patterns usually fit the measurements on the envelope? I've been reading some back-posts on patterns and fitting woes, and was curious as to how buttericks measure up.

=)

Reply to
Glitterati

I haven't made it yet - the pattern arrived last week and i'm in the middle of bridal stuff, which is pay work and has to come first!

What I will do os go by measurement: take my measurements carefully and cut out the closest size to them, adding or subtracting to get the best fit. I've never had a problem with Butterick or vogue patterns doing this. They are well drafted an usually fit the measurements indicated well.

Reply to
Kate Dicey

If you're looking for something fitted, I'd probably go with my size, not a size up. (OTOH, with patterns described as loose fitting, I go down a size, otherwise I'm swimming in the garment). In my experience, Butterick and Vogue tend to fit as advertised with minimal adjustments. YMMV.

Maureen

Glitterati wrote:

Reply to
Maureen Wozniak

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