Cross Grain

I thought I understood what "crossgrain" meant until I saw cutting instructions in a tayloring book; "Classic Tailoring Techniques", for the record.

They show a long vertical piece like a coat front with the straight grain running up and down. Next to this is a long skinny belt sort of thing, oriented exactly the same and with the straight running up and down.

They claim that because the belt thing is used horizontally, it is called cross grain. Nevermind that it is cut along the warp just like the other piece.

I was under the impression that cross grain meant it was cut on the weft as opposed to the warp and has nothing to do with the way the piece is used.

Thoughts?

js

Reply to
Jack Schmidling
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I have always understood the same as you. It has it that way in my books.

Reply to
Kate Dicey

Dear Friends,

"Cross grain" in ancient books (nineteenth century and before) meant cut on the bias. Your tailoring book isn't that old; it's just incorrect.

Teri

Reply to
gjones2938

I probably should add to my previous post. The expression was always written, "on the cross."

Teri

Reply to
gjones2938

I have always understood from my reading that 'cut on the cross' was bias, and 'cross grain' was short for 'across the grain', and the two were different.

Reply to
Kate Dicey

Dear Kate,

You're probably right. I had to learn some of the old terms to be able to replicate the techniques. "On the cross" was one of those terms. Another was measurements in "nails." And gathering could be "plaiting." I don't often read modern sewing instructions, as I was taught different (and better) techniques than are available in instruction sheets. For example, many patterns call for collars to be cut on the fold, which would throw the width of the collar on the cross grain. This builds in trouble. I always told my students to make a full copy of collars and stands, and cut them on the straight grain. They are much more stable cut this way, and easier to sew without stretching.

Teri

Reply to
gjones2938

I tend to do that too, having picked up a number of my techniques from

1930's sewing manuals! :)
Reply to
Kate Dicey

Collars cut on the straight grain also are much easier to iron without getting little wrinkles at the seams and/or topstitching. With collars cut cross grain, dampness and pressure often push that little bit of stretchiness ahead of the iron; then when you get to the other side of the collar you have to somehow push it back!

Doreen in Alabama

Reply to
Doreen

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