A commercial message -- a new product

Why screw-on instead of MT?

Read it and if that doesn't answer it, I'll do it here.

Bill

Gerald Ross wrote:

Sorry, I only looked down to the price page and thought I was at the bottom of the document.

Bill Rubenste> Read it and if that doesn't answer it, I'll do it here.

I should have done a better job answering the question.

I believe that the Morse taper was designed for spindle turning and that the bearing surface just isn't sufficient for the kinds of stuff many of us are doing. For big blanks there is no substitute (IMHO) for the positive drive you can get from a screw-on device. Also, it is easier on the lathe.

The large diameter of the drive allows one to get pretty aggressive (only if one wants -- Ruth!) without it digging a hole in the end of your piece and going off-center.

Most who have used a good screw-on drive center say they'd never go back to the old way. I'm one of those. But, this is a better drive center than I owned up until now and costs less.

Bill

Bill Rubenste> Read it and if that doesn't answer it, I'll do it here.

Save, of course the pin chuck. Pretty, but outta my price league, and won't hold the blank to do the mortise like the pin will.

There is one made for chucks. Look here:

Doesn't that picture scare you half to death? Loose bark, face grain, and out of balance. Not to mention cutting around the headstock where the push loosens the spurs!

All I see are squares and several "4" characters.

Bruce:

Hm.... Microsoft publisher strikes again. I also use Firefox (on both XP and Linux) but I have the font on both my systems so didn't notice. Thanks for the heads up and I'll fix the problem tonight.

I tried to do the document with Scribus but the learning curve was just too great for now so fell back to MS Publisher.

Bill

Bruce Barnett wrote:

Bruce:

Can you please see if I've fixed the problem?

Bill

Bruce Barnett wrote:

Hi Bill

Looks like a nice product Bill

I guess every blade is adjustable and replaceable ?? as is the center pin.

There's only one question mark so to speak in my mind, the aluminium might be a problem if one is to install and remove the spur center a lot, as I'm sure you are aware of that aluminium does like to cease up if one's not careful.

Is it possible to install an insert made from steel or other, and then in different thread configurations, as is done with the better wood chucks ?? Yes it will make for a larger product, but would that hurt ??, also considering only the insert would have to be made for all the different threads, just a thought.

Anyway good luck with your product, and thanks for giving woodturners another weapon in their arsenal so to speak, to have and use.

Have fun and take cxare Leo Van Der Loo

Bill Rubenste> All:

The problem I have with the chuck mounted spur drives is that you lose quite a bit of length. I turn on a shortbed machine and don't want to give up that space.

Bill

Bob Greenblatt wrote:

Leo:

I think with a little care there shouldn't be a problem because of the aluminum. Remember that the back beds against the flat on the spindle. Also there is a rebate at the end of the thread which indexes on the unthreaded end of the spindle. The threads are just there to get it to the point where it locks and then there really isn't much in the way of force on them.

If one is worried, one could use a little lubrication on the threads which isn't a bad idea, maybe for any threaded accessory.

The blades are threaded not the aluminum body. So, the blades lock in at one location. In other words, the blades are pulled against the body rather than pushed against it. That way there is no chance of them flying out unexpectedly.

The center point is held in by a grub screw and there is plenty of length for whatever extension one is comfortable with.

Bill

snipped-for-privacy@rogers.com wrote:

Yup. All better!

I have talked to several woodturnings in the Arizona Woodturners Association, that feel the two prong drive center is a lot stronger than the four prong. It also has less problems with stripping out because the force is at two points instead of four.

What are your feelings in this area.

Art

Bill Rubenste> All:

Just my feelings -- nothing scientific...

While I suspect that the major use of this drive is for green blanks, some are harder than others. In a harder wood, it might make sense to use just 2 blades so that they can be driven in farther than you would be able to with 4 blades. They'd go in especially nicely if aligned with the grain.

But, one major advantage of using two over four is that it is easier to adjust the orientation of the blank as things develop and you see that you don't have it oriented optimally.

Anyway, that is one of the major reasons I designed it the way I did and call it a convertible drive center. Run with 2, run with 4, run with 3 if you like, or none. I would get a magnetic dish, though, so you don't lose the blades and bolts when they are out.

BTW, I think that a 6-blade drive is wrong-headed and can't think of any use for it at all.

Bill

Desert Rat wrote:

George wrote: "Save, of course the pin chuck. Pretty, but outta my price league, and won't hold the blank to do the mortise like the pin will."

First I'd like to say I saw this drive center in TX and am quite impressed with the whole design. Personally, if I'm turning a heavy bowl blank, having the center screwed on to the spindle seems to be the most secure. As to the one posted that fits into your chuck, I know someone who used it and it worked perfect........until it started slipping in the jaws and he had to keep retightening it while working because the steady banging when rounding the larger blanks.

George, what "pin chuck" are you referring to? Just curious.

Ruth

I agree with Bill on the use of 2 prongs over 4. When I saw his new drive center, my first reaction was "oh wow, now I don't have to grind off 2 of the prongs!" which is what I do with every drive center I have.

As Bill said, using 3 is an advantage with really lopsided wood and you won't need to spend time chiseling out a flat area on the wood. You really have to hold one of these to appreciate the quality. Yes, it's a bit expensive, but you're not buying one a month. It is, after all, a quality "tool".

I'm not getting paid to say any of this (darn!).

Take care, Ruth

Bill Rubenste> Just my feelings -- nothing scientific...