anyone know of a good metal working shop

Hi Bill

Yes I know you are not asking for this but I think you could make one that would be as strong as a one piece one, or nearly so.

Busy Bee sells MT 2 and 3 with a soft end, specially made so it can be machined, they are also threaded for a draw bar if needed.

If you get a rod and drill in your lathe, and then tap the thread, take the MT and drill for the rod to fit in, then braze the rod into the MT and you would have a very strong assembly, just get a good tight fit for the rod so it is straight in the MT.

Just a thought of me.

Have fun and take care Leo Van Der Loo

what is the cost of the parts?

MSC has parts I could assemble it with and all I would need to do is cut the bar to the length I need. However, the cost of the MSC parts would be about $100 for 2 of them (one bar would be cut into two pieces).

I just th> Hi Bill

Bill.. have you talked to Bill Noble yet? This really sounds like his kind of thing...

Mac

Hi Bill

The MT 2 price at Busy Bee is $9.99 Can. catalog # B460

Drill rod on special right now at Enco, 5/8"D 36" long, runs $5.59 for water hardening and $6.99 for oil hardening rod, 5/8" carbon steel $9.85 for 6 feet long this all $ US

They have a lot more sizes and also air hardening steel which is more expensive, go to page 634 for more info

So depending on what you chose, the cost would be roughly $10.-- + $3.-- add shipping cost and your cost a piece probably runs less than $20.--

Have fun and take care Leo Van Der Loo

William,

The guy I use is great. Gary Crounse (518) 399-3946). He's meticulous and he's not expensive.

Hi William, Your OP was a little vague re hardness of steel and dimensions. If I'm not prying into details of an invention that you are developing, why do you need "hard steel" for this device? How hard? Depending on what kind of hard steel you need, I think shop time & material costs will vary.

You might try rec.crafts.metalworking or similar metal working sites. I'd think there would be many competent retired or hobby machinists in the denver area and you might want to establish a local working relationship for future work.

Again, not meaning to pry, but since you mentioned making several attempts to make the device, were you attempting to machine it or to assemble components? If the former and time isn't of the essence and if you can use a relatively easy to machine steel, with your ability why not keep on trying.... and learning. :)

Turn to Safety, Arch Fortiter

William FWIW, for amateur machinists like me, "stressproof", a carbon cold rolled proprietary steel is a good combo between precise bars, strength/hardness, machinability and cost, and it's widely available. Someone might suggest a steel better tailored to your purpose, however.

Turn to Safety, Arch Fortiter

06010482 from MSC was recommened to me originally was item

However, that rod is 3/4 of an inch and the morse taper end mill holder will go up to 5/8ths

Description Water - Oil - Air Hardening Drill Rod - 36 In. Diameter:

3/4 Tempering Medium: Water Hardening Length: 36 Diameter (Inch) 3/4 Tempering Medium Water Hardening

Or should I pick out a different one

I was also th> William FWIW, for amateur machinists like me, "stressproof", a carbon

Check your Yellow Pages! Any machine shop (not welding shop) can turn tapers and threads. I would use untreated 3/4" drill rod. It is straight, perfectly round, and stiffer than cold or hot rolled steel. And machines great. The socket diameter for MT2 is .700", so a .750" rod is just right. A cantilevered

18" rod is going to have an upper rpm limit, as you have discovered! Dan

Sorry if I've misinterpreted what the individual was looking for, but I think what mich do the trick is a endmill holder. Morse taper (drilled and tapped for drawbar if desired) to 5/8 bore with locking grubscrew. (try kbctools.com page 390 of their urrent catalog)

Hope tis is of some use. gary

In that case, you are left with finding a hobbyist machinist. I'm not sure how to go about that, other than to ask around. Dan

The chuck on my drill press is driven by a MT#2 that has a short straight shank on it that fits into the chuck. (JT3 or something) Go to

select Products, Arbor, Drill Chuck to see what I mean. Maybe you can drill and tap the end of one of these. They're not very expensive. - Owen -

the MT to Jacobs taper adapters are indeed cheap, but they are frequently hardened.

Bill

to contact me, do not reply to this message, instead correct this address and use it

will iam_ b_ No ble at msn daught com

*** Posted via a free Usenet account from ***

"William B Noble (don't reply to this address)" wrote in message news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com...

Just read back in the message history. Sorry for the 4 day late repeat suggestion.

- Owen -