best chain saw chain?

If you're using a standard chain, what you're doing is using a crosscut chain for a rip operation. You want a rip chain, much like you'd want a rip saw to cut with the grain, and a crosscut saw to cut across it.

Not sure where to get such a chain, though. Might not be worth the effort/cost for just a few blanks.

I'd guess that more of us (by a wide margin) use standard, basically crosscut chains for ripping than use ripping chains. I've owned two saws -- the first jammed up all the time, and the second almost never jams. The second has enough clearance around the drive sprocket that the cuttings have a chance to clear themselves. The first was a bit of a shoehorn job in that area.

Try this when ripping -- hold the back of the saw up a bit higher than the nose and less 'stuff' will get into the sprocket area. Also, keep that area clear. It takes a lot less time to clear minor accumulations more often than a major jam when it happens.

Bill

DJ Delorie wrote:

There's the ticket.

From the description of shavings versus dust, I assume you're doing the task properly.

It's not ripping in the classical sense at all. A rip chain would be a liability, not an asset. What you want to do is what Bill said, only in an extended sort of way. Keep the chain speed high by cutting only a bit of the total length at a time. Work the bar see-saw style if it's long enough to clear both ends so you're taking half the length or less at any given moment. That will give you best throw/pack ratio. If the saw slows, stop and run it clear in the air, or, failing that, clean out the shavings manually after you turn it off. If the bar's shorter than the piece, set up access at both ends and alternate. Here it's important to keep the nose up and away from kickback, thus giving more weight to what Bill says. Word to the wise on packing shavings and the dust that's mixed with them. It can interfere with your chain oiling real easily, so when you're doing your rev up, make sure you're throwing oil at the test object.

I have the same saw and had the same problem. Use the techniques others have posted and also enlarge th opening in the bottom of the plastic cover. I used a rotary tool and increased the bottom slot as much as possible taking care not to cut into any strengthening webs or lugs. So far so good!

Your best bet is to simply explain to your wife that you need a new saw for 'technical reasons'. I'd recommend either a Husky or Stihl with a

20" bar, or if you have a bit more experience with a saw, a 24" bar. I have a Stihl 031AV that I bought in '76. Just has a 20" bar and many times I've wanted the extra length. Problem is, it still runs fine so I don't have enough of an excuse to replace it yet! :-)

...Kevin

A reminder: getting a new Stihl saw you should get the bar length you want. Most Stihls are shipped to the dealer as a powerhead only, no bar. They add a standard bar or you can upgrade for a small additional price. This is much cheaper than buying a new bar & chain later.

Thanks for all the replies. My wife doesn't understand "technical", especially concerning my "tool collection"!! I'll keep working with the electric Remington and try the suggestions everyone kindly helped with.

MinnJim

hello dare minn jim i ran jonserds from the late 60's til the late 90's. then started running husky's. i don't cut timber like i did for many years for a living, but do enough firewood to heat my house and shop here in mnnesota. anywho the husky's a really good saw as far as i'm concerned. ross