Electric chainsaw chain

"Ken Moon" wrote: (clip) My question is whether the electric motor should be able to pull the additional cutting surfaces? ^^^^^^^^^^^^^ First question is: Is the old blade the one supplied by the manufacturer on the new saw? If it is the manufacturer's selection, we can probably assume that it is correct for the motor power. However, if you don't use the full bar length most of the time, you should be OK with the new blade. IF YOU PAY ATTENTION. It is possible to overload the motor by the way you crowd the cut, even with the correct blade. If you are sensitive to that--never run the motor in a lugging mode, and let it come up to full speed at no load if you think it has been overloaded--you should be OK.

The advantage of this new blade is that with green wood, and small diameters, you should be able to save time.

Ken: Sounds like your first chain was a "skip-tooth" used for rapid cutting of logs -- that is the only kind I buy for my saw -- less teeth to sharpen! I think your saw will handle the 28 tooth chain just fine; however, you can always call or go to a saw shop and ask. Poulan can be queried also, at:

Ken, I have one of the Huskie electric chain saws. I burned up 2 motors in it before I learned that you have to let it cut at its own speed and not to force it. They were supposed to be putting in an overload circuit that would trip if you were pushing too hard. I wasn't the only one having this problem. I have about 3 years on my saw now, and no problems. Your saw may have this feature. robo hippy

"Leif Thorvaldson" wrote: (clip) "skip-tooth" used for rapid cutting of logs -- that is the only kind I buy for my saw -- less teeth to sharpen! ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ But Leif, don't you have to sharpen the teeth twice as often? Of course, I realize that your sharpening skill is such that you probably don't notice. :-)

if that poulon is the same one I had, I went through 6 of them, and 6 of the sears equivalent before I gave up and bought an electric sthil - the best of them lasted about an hour, the worst under 15 seconds - all failed by a nylon gear stripping from it's steel shaft - bad design. The failures happend fastest when cutting full bar length - with the sthil (which cost more than the 12 prior saws), I've had no problems. So, be very gentle with the saw

On Wed, 6 Apr 2005 16:07:54 -0700, Leo Lichtman wrote (in message ):

no. more teeth = slower cut. and much slower sharpening. i would return it.

On Wed, 6 Apr 2005 19:18:31 -0700, Leo Lichtman wrote (in message ):

no. possibly a little more often but not much. but the skip tooth is soo much faster to sharpen. give one a try, youll never go back!

===================== Bill and all who answered, I decided to go ahead with the new chain because the old one is going to take a while to recondition. A hired handyman was using it to cut some fence posts, and he apparently let the nose of the bar get into the ground or the concrete the posts were set into. Any way, it will take some major sharpening/reshaping. I'll see how the new one cuts and go from there. This Poulan electric has already outlasted the Remington it replaced by about 500 percent. It's a little over 4 years old, and has been used for trimming tree limbs, turning blanks, etc. I've always tryed to let it choose it's own cutting rate to prevent overload. I'll keep the other chain on stanby for endgrain and/or ripping cuts. Thanks all,

Ken Moon Webberville, TX.