Electric motor selection Qs

Owen Lowe wrote in news:onlnlowe- snipped-for-privacy@sn-ip.vsrv-sjc.supernews.net:

Seems to me that the new Laguna saws are coming with 4.5 hp Baldor motors, if that means anything to your calculations...

Have fun with the classic iron!

Patriarch

Owen:

I am not an expert on motors by any means. However, maybe I can help.

A friend of mine that does high end, artistic custom woodwork (think carved entryways for churches, etc.) cuts and mills his own wood. His Jet 18" with a 2 hp motor only lasted about 18 months in his shop and the motor burned up. Apparently it overheated (cutting veneers from

He pushed it hard as he always told me he regretted that saw as the 2 hp just wasn't enough power. So in the end, he was right. We are looking for a 3 hp motor now to replace it.

The continuous run motors in my opinion can be tricky. The motor guy at the armature works here in town (yup... they really rewind them on site!) told me that "continuous run" meant that in some cases it could run for about 45 minutes out of an hour, imtermittently, and indefinitely. This would emcompass the heavy duty motors that are in compressors, industrial washing machines, etc.

On the other hand, he has some "continuous run" motors that HE considers continuous run motors. They are made to run all the time powering chillers for roof top cooling systems, elevators in buildings, fountain pumps, and swimming pool skimmers on commercial pools. They never shut off, but they might get an rest now and again.

Like so many definitions that are bastardized today, I think the point is that you need to find out from the manufacturer what their definition is for the duty rating on that particular motor.

According to my motor guy that is keeping an eye out for a good motor for the broken 18", a continuous run motor is not nearly as important as a quality built motor. He only suggests Baldor, Lesson, and some GEs in certain sizes.

According to him, all the continuous run motors are made to be rebuilt. While the others may be repaired, but it may not be advantageous to rebuild them. That being said, he did tell me that if he could get the continuous run motor at a good price he would get it for me.

If I were you, I would probably look for a good quality TEFC and not worry about the rating too much. Once you get into the 3 hp range, you probably won't find too many light duty motors.

Just my 0.02.

Robert

Hi Owen Not trying to stop you from getting an other motor, but that rough LOOKING motor might be a better one than the new one you will buy, looking rough is what ??? paint missing, dirty ??what. Does it run ??, not enough power ??.

I have a small 14" band saw and the stand is closed, but dust still gets in, a TEFC is nice and you don't have to worry about dust in there, but I have seen total open motors that had been running for 50 years, and the only maintenance was oil once a year, for the bronze bearings, and they were still going strong, and yes they were rough looking.

If you use 2 or 3 tooth blades and a wide set, you don't need that much power for cutting wet bowl blanks, it's nice to have plenty though, if you want to do some resawing thick dry wood, then 4 or 5 hp is not to much IMO. I would try first with what you have, and then make up your mind, that's my 2 cents.

Have fun and take care Leo Van Der Loo

Owen Lowe wrote:

warning you to remove any and all rings from your fingers. Called degloving, extended hardware can grab your ring and rip it off your finger. A pic for the strong of stomach:

finished smoothness.

Thank you for the reply Leo. By rough looking, I'm talking about frayed wires coming out of the motor body along with rust. I'm not too concerned with keeping it as I know it's a replacement since the motor NEMA frame doesn't fit the mounts on the saw. I may try to rejuv it, but at this point I'm looking for a properly fitted motor.

Yeah, I've seen those motors too. i think I may just go with an open version as the price is a tad cheaper - but then again...

I regularly use a Timberwolf 3/8x3tpi wide-kerf blade. I've had my Delta

Would anyone be willing to offer an educated opinion on these two choices?

WEG brand made in Brazil (company founded in '62), TEFC, 120 lbs, manual thermal reset:

Leeson, non-TEFC, 90 lbs, no thermal protection:

Hmmmm. Well, if Laguna owners are hanging 4.5 hp Baldors, I'm just gonna have to go with a 5hp!

SNIP

Yeah, I guess you're right - I'll try to find the manufacturer info.

I've come across the WEG brand from Brazil. The company has been around for 40+ years and apparently has a good reputation. Anyone ever heard of them?

In comparison to similar HP and configured Leeson's, the WEG motors are definitely heavy-weights. A 5hp, TEFC Leeson is over $100 more but comes in at 106 lbs vs. the 120 lb. WEG 5hp, TEFC. What might account for the added weight? Is it a good thing?

I don't know Owen. My guy is hard to get ahold of unless I am bringing him business. Did you see this page?

I hope you let us know what you buy. You should buy a 6 hp just so Leon can't upgrade his new cabinet grade bandsaw to catch you! ;^)

Robert

According to Frank B., who worked for Delta for years, over on the wreck, Delta has recently gone from using the Marathon brand motors on the Unisaw to the WEG brand...