OK - I Got A Chainsaw - Now What?

Because I got a bandsaw I figured if I got a chainsaw I could score a bunch of free semi-logs/ logettea / mini-logs I could slice up into future small box stock or maybe into some thick veneer. Did that.

Now that I've been playing with the JET mini and have a couple of Super Nova2 chucks (drive By Neener) I've begun to play with plate and bowl making. Why not cut up a few and make my own bowl blanks?

Well, if you've ever tried to bandsaw anything that doesn't have at least one flat face, you know that bandsawing things that want to rock and roll ain't a good idea. DUH!

So last week, at the monthly Santa Clara Valley Woodturners monthly meeting, a very knowledgeable guy named John Brugo, did an hour and a half presentation on chainsaws, and how to cut logs for bowl blanks - and why use one method over another, along with a great explanation about "reaction" / "reactive" wood and some things to know on how to deal with it.

Did two pages - with illustrations of some of what I learned from him and figured it might be of use to others. Having recently escaped from Comcast as the ISP for my woodworking site, while rebuilding my site on HyperSurf, I decided to put up some pages about what I learned so others could get to it easier than jumping around news groups to get the text AND the illustrations.

Here's the url (all one line so watch the line wrap)

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If you see any holes in the illustrations or accompanying text, or if something isn't clear, please e-mail me and I'll try to fix it. charlie b

Reply to
charlie b
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Looks like standard methods to me. I slab mine near the ground between two wedged logs rather than make something with nails I'll hit or decent wood that I'll leave in the shavings. Easier on my back to roll the log and bend to saw than heft the log and still have the weight of the saw to support higher up.

I also own a scrub plane, so a flat surface is never far away, even if I didn't get it right at the woodpile.

Reply to
George

Thanks, good information and clear.

I like the design of the log support. I did hit a drywall screw in my last one :(

Old Guy

Reply to
Old guy

Thanks for the pics, nice and clear! I guess I'm doing it all wrong but... When I try to chainsaw my way through the log (length wise along the grain) it takes forever and ever, the chain gets hot & dull real easy. When I resharpen the chain (18") it flies through it only for an inch and it's back to snail speed. Do I have a cheapo chain? Am I doing it wrong? Whatever? I just lucked onto a motherload of fresh kill maple and based on my experience so far, despite the fact that it's maple, I'm tempted to let it dry out for next year's fireplace season. Yeah, I know a crying shame so I'd appreciate any and all suggestions. By the way, there's more than I'd be using on the lathe myself so I'd consider trades, offers... Bart, Hamilton, Ontario. my current email address:

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**botox treatments: taxidermy on the living**

Check my most up to date email address at:

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awesome banjo bridges, tabs, stained glass:
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Reply to
Bart V

Try this method. Mark the heart or where you'll want to cut on the far end with a timber crayon or some chalk. Do the same on the near end. Notch the far end lightly, then roll the bar back to make a full mark, ending up with the bar at about a 15-20 degree up angle, cutting only on the near end on a slant (\) . Keep the speed up as it goes in, so it'll clear the shavings. When the far end of the bar is a bit beyond half way, or when you start to bog down, lift the body of the saw up and cut from the opposite end toward the middle slanting opposite (/). Tilt and saw your way down with increasing angles, then take out the small amount left in the middle.

Other thing to remember is to have your chain taut, not slack as you begin. If you start on the slack side of good, the heat you build up might expand it into the range where it may tip and start cutting to one side.

Look at the 4th to last picture here

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to get an idea of how you can minimize the amount of bar actually in the cut. Thought Darrell had a similar picture, but can't find it right now. For Charlie and for others who value their lathe and their arm, a couple of suggestions.
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It's not as if you were going to use the wood anyway, right? Why let it hammer you and your bearings. Save that wear and tear for the times you want something off-center or out of balance. BTW, it's hard maple, and you can't ask for a nicer salad or popcorn bowl than maple.

Reply to
George

I would also suggest that you get Bill Grumbine's first DVD. He also shows how to cut up a log. One thing that I do is to mark parallel lines on the log, one for the top of the bowl, and one for the bottom. I mark on the end grain, and along the bark, and when you are just starting to learn to use the chainsaw, I mark both ends of the log. This does a lot to help the cuts go straight and parallel. This makes it a lot easier to get a flat surface that is suitable for a bandsaw, or to have a flat bottom to set the blank on so you can lop off the corners. It is much easier to round off the blank if it has a flat bottom. It is easiest to cut if the saw blade is longer than the blank. I like to start the cut down the front side, then pivot the tip down as far as it can go without hitting dirt, then finish the cut on the front. This seems to give the cleanest and flattest cut. A small hand axe can do some trim work.

As far as Bart's situati> Thanks for the pics, nice and clear!

Reply to
robo hippy

Bart If you are having a chain go dull that quickly there could be one of a few things happening, most of which involve too much heat build up. (1) the most obvious cause is too much grit in the bark, usually caused by small stones and other debris getting on the log when it was felled. Brush the log and try again. (2) a lack of lubrication on the bar will make it heat up and ruin both chain and bar. Make sure the bar oil is the right consistency for the season and that it is flowing well. If your bar allows for it, grease the tip sprocket at every filling. (3) make sure you cut through at an angle that allows the chips to clear, about 60 degrees is right. The long shavings that are made with this type of cut can clog the drive cog and cause heat and dullness. (4) certain woods dull a chain faster than others. Cedar is notorious for this. The boys I know who cut cedar for a living will sharper three times more than the fellows who cut hardwoods. hope this helps. See a general procedure at

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Reply to
Darrell Feltmate

I haven't used the lathe a whole lot these days for lathing but this load of maple sure got me in the mood. Like usual, you folks are fabulous with your generous supply of knowledgeable answers - thanks ever so much, you'll turn me into a real woodworker yet :))) The question now of course, will my chainsaw get to that pile before the snow does... Bart.

- **botox treatments: taxidermy on the living**

Check my most up to date email address at:

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Reply to
Bart V

Thanks to all who added to this thread.

I was hoping this would generate more info on using a chainsaw, preferably related to cutting up stuff for turning. Mr. Brugo covered a lot more ground than contained in merely two pages but I wasn't sure how much interest there was in the subject.

Like so much in woodworking, most books, videos, classes, etc. assume that certain things are "common knowledge" and therefore not worth mentioning. That probably worked well - when there was an apprenticeship program in the trades. A newbie could observe the journeyman or master and pick up that knowledge not specifically told to him. Alas, most of us will never serve an apprenticeship to pick up that necessary be never spelled out "common knowledge".

As a jewelry teacher I assumed that my students knew nothing about jewelry making or lost wax casting. I told my students up front that if I went over something they already knew, to not take it that I assumed that they were ignorant or stupid, but wanted to make sure they got what they needed to know. Many folks are embarassed to ask what they believe to be a stupid question. As a teacher, I told them that there was no such thing as a stupid questions if you really wanted to know the answer and that it was stupid not to ask, and keep asking, until you got the info you needed in a way you could understand it.

So George, and any other very experienced folks out there - what's obvious to you may not be obvious to someone else with less experience and hard earned knowledge. Often it's the little things that don't seem worth mentioning that can mean the difference between success and failure, or even the willingness to try.

If I post something that "everybody already knows" I'll do it because I didn't know before, do now, and hope the info helps the next newbie in line.

I came here from The Wreck (rec.woodworking) so I've got pretty thick skin, Nomex suit and a sense of humor. I may not always be right - but my intentions will always be good.

charlie b

Reply to
charlie b

There are also different kinds of chain, just as there is more than one kind of hand saw or bandsaw blade. You can get a chain designed specifically for ripping. Most consumer saws are sold with "safety chain," which really stinks for rip cuts. Better "pro" chains are still designed for crosscutting, but will both crosscut and rip more agressively than a safety chain. It's probably something else we can blame on the product liability lawyers, but if you inquire at a store that specializes in chainsaws they can probably hook you up with something.

tt

Reply to
Test Tickle

Hi Bart

First off, like Darrell says dirt in the bark will dull the chain in a blink of 'n eye, also if you hit the ground the chain is dull.

If I have to cut up a log with dirt on it I will take my one bar that has a flat end on it (just like a screw driver) and I'll try to get a strip of bark off, doesn't always work to easy though, but a brush does help some to, cutting lengthwise through the bark first is also better for the chain, rather than dragging the bark and dirt down through the wood, not so much of a problem on the other side where you cut the bark away from the wood.

Then I would recommend you get a spare chain, first it will give you an idea how a sharp chain should saw and also if your chain gets dull you can put on a fresh sharp chain and continue with the job, and then you can sharpen the dull chain when you have the time to do a good job.

Also as you have sharpened the chain a few times, did you file down the rakers some ??? if not that will also make your saw seems dull, as the chains cutters being unable to get to the wood.

When you go to get an spare chain, I would advice you take the chain along, helps for getting the right one.

With all the snow gone again you can cut a lot of wood before the next flurries come around ;-)) Make sure you seal the ends of your blanks, and keep them out of the sun and also out of the wind if possible, you could throw a tarp over them, but then you have to watch for mildew and staining.

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Have fun and take care Leo Van Der Loo

Bart V wrote:

Reply to
l.vanderloo

The subject of chains was in John Brugo's presentation - the "safety chain" noted - tooth link : depth of cut limiter link : tooth link and that they're the only type avialable from The Borg, in it's many manifistations. At stores that sell mainly to the professionals, you can get a range of other chains - and bars - for more aggressive cutting ie. tooth link: plain link: tooth link and even tooth link: TWO plain links: tooth link ( is it plain or plane?).

I know Stihl makes a special rip chain and bar - narrower kerf and thinner bar - don't recall if the chain is "safety" or not but I can go look at mine if someone's really interested.

While the "non safety" chains cut more aggressively, they're often also harder to control and can bang your hands up more in many cases.

So damn much stuff to be aware of, so much stuff to learn.

charlie b

Reply to
charlie b

You ask for comments then come with this attitude? Saying it looks like a standard way is support, validation that there's nothing so horrible or dangerous as to disqualify it. Also nothing terribly different from any of a half-dozen other sites bookmarked on this box showing the same, but that's because _it's pretty much standard_.

I mentioned my back and how I prefer to baby it by bending not lifting, then I mentioned the use of a particular tool to get a quick and safe level surface for sawing. I guess those don't qualify as the little things that don't seem worthwhile? Sheesh!

Reply to
George

The woodsman's mnemonic is "cut _to_ dirt, not _through_ dirt." Easier when crosscutting than ripping, since you just put the dirt on the side closest to you. Ripping is where you've selected for figure already, so you are through rolling the log, so that's why I advocate the notch at the far end to stabilize and then lowering the bar in an arc to make the initial mark through the bark from the inside out, as it were. It keeps you cutting to rather than through.

Chisel chain is better than safety chain for ripping, and skip-tooth is splendid, while perhaps a bit rougher on the crosscut. A full rip chain doesn't crosscut worth a darn, so unless you have two saws or are cutting a bunch of blanks and can justify the chain change, I'd stick with the chisel as the best all-round and most easily available. I think these are the standard terms for what Charlie was dancing around with his descriptions. For specifics it really gets complicated.

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You really want to see an OSHA nightmare, you want to look at the piececutters chains. They take the rakers right down to the links. Takes a strong saw and a strong fool to handle, but it crosscuts like mad where time is money.

Reply to
George

Also, would you have the non-gif files available? I'd like to use smoother text than what appears in the gif image files.

I also want to be sure you get proper credit - just email me your non-group name if/when you email the files. My address is onlnlowe/verizon.net (replace the / with @ and it should be good to go).

Thanks, Owen

Reply to
Owen Lowe

How about putting the text as text - and large enough to be readable. We don't all have eyes of a 20 year old.

Reply to
mike vore

I am the opposite of an expert, but I have found that taking the log and laying it down like a hotdog and ripping it that way produced nice long shavings and went way faster. Something about going across that grain takes about 10 years to complete and a chain to sharpen.

Rob

Reply to
rob

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