Bandsaw risers

You've probably already thought of this, but size the riser block so the result will fit a commonly available blade length.

It might be difficult to make one that would be rigid enough to stand the stress of blade tension without flexing - of course I've heard that can be a problem on the manufactured ones as well.

It would not be at all difficult to make a rigid riser block. All the commercial ones I have ever seen had no rigidity problems. The flex often encountered is the saw frame. It was designed to be rigid in stock form. By adding a riser, you increase the lever arm for the blade and cutting forces to work against. Riser blocks are a relatively cheap way to get more capacity but a saw so equipped rarely will be equal to a larger saw designed for the purpose.

Hi Darrell,

I have the Harbor Freight saw and bought their riser block kit. It was around $50 usd about 6 years ago. As an aside I would now get the Grizzly saw as it has all the upgrades I put into the HF saw included for less than I spent for saw and upgrades. It has a 1hp motor that handles the load quite well. The saw seems to be rigid enough to handle the 3/4 inch rip blade that I use much of the time and I have cut hardwood blanks as well as ripping up to about 10 inch boards. I have done resaw that was so good I hardly needed to sand (using carbide blades) and have made venier that was about 1/64th inch thick. I have done boxes including several octagnal ones that all the cuts were done on the saw and were right on.

The frame was rigid enough to take the block without much flex. The motor was plenty strong to take the bigger blade and the load of the bigger work pieces. But I still wish I could have gotten that 36 inch ships saw several years ago (of course at $400 it would have been a steal except for the $20,000 shop I would have had to build around it).

Is it worth it, maybe. Won't hurt to try it out and see if it works for you, especially if you make your own block.

Brian

If anyone can do it, you can, oh blacksmith friend...

I know that you're always aware of safety issues, so be aware that when you buy a riser KIT, it's more than the block for the frame.. You also need a longer guide height adjuster bar, longer front and back blade guards, etc...

Also knowing that you have been known to squeeze a penny into a dime, I won't give the usual advise to just go buy a bigger saw.. ;-]

I like the extra 6" clearance on my 14" saw, thought I seldom "need" it.. One thing that it really helps is if you want to add a shop-made table, you can make it an extra 1/2"thick if you want without worrying about losing critical clearance.. Also, I'm a little over 6' tall and while not a giant, I like the frame being 6" higher and more out of my line of sight to the blade..

mac

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Hi gang, I am a little confused by this term "Riser", is it an Americanism or just a technical term I have not come across before. Could someone explain what a Riser does, where it fits etc. Thanks all Hotfoot.

It increases the cutting depth of the saw by raising the upper wheel.

one might call it a "shim" also, albeit a fat shim - you unscrew the big huge bolt that holds the top casting of your bandsaw to the bottom casting, insert this "riser" in between the two castings, thus making them farther apart, add a longer blade and you are set to go.

Maybe they didn't like using "raiser"..

mac

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