Chuck recommendations?

May 10, 2005 39 Replies

Fred Holder has a book called Woodholding On The Lathe (title might be worded wrong?). Might be worthwhile buying that First, then see what you want to do. I know you can find it at Amazon - if your ISP is working, which mine is not at the moment - and I'm pretty sure Fred sells it from his site also.

It's possible, but it's also possible that you get a piece of junk, have problems with it and not know if it is your technique or the chuck which is responsible. A good rule of thumb is 'You need better tools as a novice than you do as an expert.' - not necessarily more expensive, but good solid quality. The exception being cheap chisels for practicing grinding.

I think you could easily sell a used Supernova. A used Thingamee is a doorstop. If you get to a point where you Need independent jaws, you'll probably have enough experience that you can get away with a less expensive chuck with independent jaws and you'll want to keep the scroll chuck anyway.

Again, try Fred's book before you buy. Here's Fred's site:

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LD

Finally got web access back. Fred's book is:

A Guide to Work-Holding on the Lathe

Here's the description at Amazon:

With so many options for mounting wood on the lathe, woodworkers are always seeking information on where the differences lie, what the top techniques are, and how to choose the best type for their particular project. Finally, here are all the answers, presented in full detail with illustrated descriptions of the many different types of available chucks, including jam fit chucks, glue chucks, screw chucks, and more. There?s also an illuminating explanation of why the method of holding the work is so important and a brief history of the lathe. Discussions on eccentric turning methods and other forms of chucking round out this comprehensive reference.

Fred does sell the book at his site, but you have to go through a pdf file to get to it.

I did a couple of mushrooms using Darrell's (?) technique of two 50mm, 2

25mm jaws on the Nova. Held, and made a neat "ground" under the mushroom.

Cool. Hadn't seen that, but the first thing that pops into my head for holding it is 'glue block'.

That's what we are here for. I had the same problem., and this group helped a lot.

I own a now useless 6-in-1 Chuck that did not have scroll jaws. To tighten it requires two bars on opposite sides, and you squeeze them together. This takes two hands. Trouble is - what if you have to hold the wood with the third hand while you tighten the chuck?

(BTW The 6-in-1 was a real PITA chuck. I needed 4 hands).

That's why the 1-handed T-wrench is a good idea.

The insert means you can keep the chuck and accessories, and get a new lathe. You buy a new insert, which fits between the lathe and the chuck.

Teknatool made another chuck for mini's - the compac JET 709513 Mini Lathe Compac Chuck, 1" x 8TPI - $90.99 on Amazon

This is being phased out, but still comes with a 2 year warranty.

So you can buy several jaws, and not lose your investment. But it's also tommybar and not a T-Wrench. So that's a negative.

More info is on

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do not have the Holder book, but I think it's a good idea.Several of my books list some very simple and/or creative way to hold wood.You don't always need a chuck. But it makes it faster. Example - You can always glue a block of wood to your bowl, with brown grocery bag paper in between. After you turn, you separate with a chisel.

SNIP..............

------------------------ George, Would you expandon that procedure or point to a link? TIA

Ken Moon Webberville, TX.

Wish I had one, I'd have posted it. Snow predicted tomorrow, so maybe I'll put in some computer time to find it. Wasn't Darrell, I checked.

Will do- thanks for the link!

Aut inveniam viam aut faciam

I've heard that technique mentioned before, but never tried it- how well does it work, and how much work is it to get the glue off afterwards? Is that an appropriate technique for trying to do some hollowing, with a vase, for instance- or is is only useful for relatively shallow objects like bowls? That may be a good thing to try while waiting for the tool account to grow a bit so I can get a better chuck right off.

Aut inveniam viam aut faciam

I'd recommend spending a LOT of time at Darrell's site.. (hell, it's hard NOT to)

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's a sure webucation in wood turning..

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

See below

The Oneway profiled jaws have a fantastic grip. Runout is virtually zero. Quality materials; I have never heard of anybody wearing one out. Much easier to remount a bowl and have it run true or close to it compared to the cheapie. Uses inserts for different spindle sizes which is handy if you upgrade or even if you have two lathes. Changeable jaws available in different sizes and styles. These benefits are available with other top quality chucks.

Billh

It's what I used when I was turning faceplate/bowl work when I started. You can scrape and sand to remove the paper and glue, but it's a thin layer.

I'm not an expert, but ever try to separate a 2" surface glued to another 2" surface? The glue is stronger than the wood. The paper weakens this a little, but ...

And another nice thing is you can cut everything but the foot, and then you can cut the foot nearly away at the end. The "chuck" is just paper, after all. The smaller the foot, the less sanding you have to do.

A vase would probably require gluing end grain to the paper, which won't hold. Instead:

Cut a spigot on the end of the blank, remove it, and then mount a new lock and cut a recess into the block, making it a "chuck". Jam it in.

Or, if you need more holding power, cut a slice in the chuck, and use hose clamps.

There are hundreds of variations. The scroll jaw chuck is a recent invention. The lathe is not. Some of the home made "chucks" I have seen are dang clever.

An expensive chuck will make some things faster and easier, but old fashioned techniques can make do. I think a dovetail recess is hard without a metal chuck. But wood holds wood, and costs the same as wood. It can take you far.

A $15 book will teach you how to do things that a $300 chuck can't do.

The use of 2 #1 and 2 #2 jaws for a mushroom is a technique I learned from Ken Bullock, but I have not seen his web site up for a while now.

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THANK YOU. I thought it was a Maritimer.

Ken was going on the RV retirement route, wasn't he? Generator and JET mini.

If that's you behind the address shown, I can pop you a copy of the e-book Ken made showing the technique.

Ken closed it down when he started getting too much spam. He should have just removed his email address.

"Darrell Feltmate" wrote in message news:QFUge.62454$tg1.29072@edtnps84... The use of 2 #1 and 2 #2 jaws for a mushroom is a technique I learned from Ken Bullock, but I have not seen his web site up for a while now.

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============== George, It's good, at least for now. May have to go to an alias soon due to increasing spam. Earthlink SpamBlocker isn't stopping as much spam as it once did; or maybe there's just that much more to block now.

Ken Moon Webberville, TX.

"Ken Moon" wrote in news:ziehe.414$ snipped-for-privacy@newsread3.news.pas.earthlink.net:

It's a constant ebb and flow, with spammers working around the blockers' methods.

The same bozos that got blocked last week find a new way around this week, and so on.

The only complete defense is an air gap, but then you have junk mail.

Patriarch

It never changes, the sword & shield theory.... the spam blocking gets better, which makes the spammers get better software, which makes the ISP get even better blocking stuff, etc., etc., etc...

I remember back in the bad ol' days of everyone having apple computers and attempts at anti-piracy software verses code-breaking copy programs..

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Is the PSI Barracuda chuck any good? It seems to have all the needed jaws available. Price is good. $125 for everything except the cole jaws. BAM

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